So, you've realised you're stuck in the Bra Matrix. You've measured yourself, and now you have your real bra size ! But the size is not everything. Certain bra models may have bigger or smaller cups than standard, or just a weird shape that is not compatible with your bust. So, you need to check whether the fit is really right.
But how can you tell if a bra really fits you ? Here is what to look for:
How to put on a bra correctly:
Without scooping correctly, you might never realise that your cups are the wrong size.
Put on the band and fasten it. Bend forward, and put the breasts into the cups. Use your hand to gather all of the breast into the cup. Scoop in flesh from under armpits, and even your back, into the cups (that's not fat that's escaped breast tissue).Now stand up, and tighten bra straps.
Detailed instructions and why it is so important -- and how to put on a bra correctly.
Now, jump around, lift your arms over your head. The bra band should not move. If it does, it's too big, and you should get a smaller band size.
Look into the mirror and observe your bra:
Don't forget to put it on correctly first! (see above)
* If your breasts are spilling out of the cups, that does not look sexy, that is a sign that the cup is too small. Under a tight T-shirt, it gives the effect of quadruple boobs. The line of the breast should be smooth in the right size bra.
Still think breast spillage is sexy ? Only from the front view, dear !
* There should be no spillage in the armpit area. A good bra goes all around the breast. If you see extra flesh coming out of the cup under your armpit, try a bigger cup. It's also possible that your bra straps are too tight. (This photo is actually from a bra advertisement ! What a shock !)
* If your breasts hang too low in the bra, don't tighten the straps. The fault here is that the band size is too big: a loose band rides up at the back, and falls too low in the front. The breasts are not supported well. You should look for a tighter band size !
* Straps feel too tight, and leave red marks on your skin: that means the straps are carrying all the weight of your breasts, because the band is too loose. The straps are supposed to carry only 10% of the weight, the band should carry 90%. So, you need a tighter band.
* If the bra band seems too tight, usually it's the fault of the cup & underwires, not the band. Try this trick to find out: fasten the band with the cups on your back and the hooks in the front. Does the band feels comfortable now ? That means either the cup is too small, or you need wider underwires (some brands like Panache have wider underwires than, say, Freya).
*If the bra band is riding up at the back, it means that it is too loose. You need to get a smaller band size. And don't forget to go up a cup size.
* If the cup wrinkles at the top, we usually think that it is too big. But if the wrinkles are only at the tip (nipple area), the cup may be too small ! When the cup is too small, the underwire becomes narrower, and so the breast cannot fill it all the way in. This is also called "orange in a glass effect".
Try a bigger cup, that the breast will fill completely, and don't forget the go down a band size (that way you'll get a cup with the same depths but wider underwires).
* If the underwire pokes into your breast in the armpit area (see photo), or if it the underwires do not lie flat on the ribcage in the front, the cup is too small. You need to go down with the band size, and up with the cup size. (that way you'll get a cup with the same depths but wider underwires).
Check out these great photos on Breakout Bras which show one lady demonstrating all these points. If you prefer videos, take a look at these:
Correctly fitting bra:
Badly fitting bra:
Cups sizes are relative to the band size ! There is no such thing as a "D" cup: a 65D cup is much smaller than a 80D cup. But a 60D, 65B and 70A have cups that have a very similar depth. For detailed explanations and photos, see here.
Based on this article