Tip: Whiten Your Teeth With A Banana Skin

   I just had to share this lovely tip: to whiten your teeth at home, rub the inside part of a banana peel on them for around two minutes. The whitening effect is subtle, but noticeable -- even more so when you do this every day for a week or two. Yellow bananas are best for this! Brush your teeth before so that you are rubbing the skin on your clean teeth and not on food remains. If you want to brush your teeth afterwards too, let the banana peel stuff sit on your teeth for a minute or two first.
    Also, the banana peel is actually good for your teeth because it contains minerals and is not acidic. (Brushing your teeth with strawberry pulp damages the enamel because strawberries are too acidic). Also, there is absolutely no pain or sensitivity involved with a banana.
   Other at-home whitening remedies which can work is swishing hydrogen peroxide.  Hydrogen peroxide is the active ingredient in most teeth whitening products. Be sure to buying the 3% strength, as higher concentrations can burn the skin. You can even dilute the 3% with water (50:50) if you want to. Hydrogen peroxide is also helpful against caries. Avoid swallowing, especially if the hydrogen peroxide you are using is not food grade. Also, don't use for too long non-stop, as the H2O2 wipes out the good bacteria along with the good, and this might lead to a case of black hairy tongue or thrush. So definitely take a pause after using peroxide for a week or two, and definitely don't use more often than once a day. Another way to whiten teeth at home that I know of is baking soda -- I have heard it might be too abrasive, but on the other hand many toothpaste products from organic brands contain baking soda. Does anyone know whether it is ok?
   If you prefer a store-bought whitener, the general consensus is that Crest strips are the best thing out there. They can be painful for sensitive teeth though, and using them too often might damage the teeth. I also recall that they have a different name in some countries but I don't remember what it is -- can anyone help me out here?
   Lets talk about prevention for a moment -- coffee is the greatest culprit when it comes to teeth stains, so if your teeth colour is important to you you might want to cut down on your coffee intake, as well as that of red wine.
    The colour of your lipstick can make your teeth look yellower or whiter. If your teeth are yellow you might want to avoid orange-ish tones, and some bright colours might also make your teeth look even more yellow. This is relative to your skin tone though, so you might have to test things out for yourself.
   I heard that Americans are obsessed with perfectly white and straight teeth. Is this true? I personally don't have either perfectly white or even very straight teeth, but I used to have very very crooked ones and it took a long time to get them straight-ish and the process was not entirely painless (my palate was stretched), so I appreciate and like the teeth I have now even they are not perfect.

   Is the appearance of your teeth important to you? What do you use to keep them white? Oh, and you might also like my post on tips on keeping your teeth healthy.

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Parfait Affinitas Is Going Till K Cup This Fall

      Parfait Affinitas is one of my two favourite bra brands. The bras fit me perfectly and I love the luxurious fabrics and lovely details. However so many of you mentioned that you fall outside their sizing. Even though I am within their size range, I always wished it were available in bigger cups as well. After all, this is one of the things this blog is about -- to increase awareness for women as well as brands about the need for good, pretty bras in all kinds of sizes.
      Parfait Affinitas is thankfully one of the brands that listens to its customers and has increased their size range and will be offering cups up to K! This increase is right now limited to several models: Charlotte Padded Bra, Sophia Wire Bra and the Alexis Babydoll. However Affinitas promises to offer more styles in the expanded sizes in the future seasons.
     The bra on the photo above is the Charlotte (a huge favourite of mine which I reviewed here), which is now available in new colours: dusty rose and wild pink. I think the dusty rose one is mouthwatering gorgeous.

Charlotte in wild pink, the Sophia in nude and the Allison babydoll in black

     I am really looking forward to seeing how Affinitas bras look and fit in the bigger cups. I see the size expansion of Affinitas as a very positive sign, and hope that in the near future K cups will be the norm rather than the exception in stores.

     So, what do you think? Will you be buying one of the three bras that will be available in bigger cups? Which other Affinitas bra would you like to see in an expanded size?

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Tuesday, June 18, 2013

Quick Announcement -- Two More Parfait Affinitas Giveway Winners!

         Two out of the ten winners never contacted me back, so I had to picked another two. The lucky ladies are:

1. Justine Marie Sherry
2. Al

   I've sent you mails, do check your spam box if you can't see them.
                         cheers,

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Friday, June 14, 2013

Protect Your Face This Summer + John Masters Organic Sunscreen Review

   "If I could offer you only one piece of advice for the future, sunscreen would be it." wrote Mary Schmich, and her speech was made into the song everybody is free to wear sunscreen. If you'd ask be for the most important beauty tips, I'd tell you to drink lots of water, eat healthy and wear sunscreen. Lets talk about sunscreen today.

    The problem is that it's actually not that simple. It's not enough to "just wear" sunscreen. The application is crucial: rubbing on a very thin layer of sunscreen will give you just a  fraction of the SPF promised on the bottle. Most people don't apply enough, you need one teaspoon for the entire face, which is more than you think it is. Here is how to apply sunscreen right.

     Also, you shouldn't be applying just any makeup. Chemical sunscreen is often not photostable, mimics hormones and may promote skin cancer. Some get destabilized by certain makeup ingredients, and many have insufficient UVA protection. All have to be reapplied during the course of the day (how in the world are you supposed to do this if you wear makeup?).

   Mineral sunscreen do not have these issues and do not have to be reapplied if you don't touch your face. Besides, zinc oxide is probably the most effective at blocking all the rays of the UV spectrum. However, mineral sunscreen often is very heavy and leaves a white cast on the face. If it doesn't it is likely to contain nano particles -- these have not been sufficiently researched yet but it is know that they easily penetrate the skin and enter the bloodstream, and also that nano-sized particles do not behave like regular sized ones. For these reasons I stick to nano-free mineral sunscreen.
   However there is hope in sight: nano-free mineral sunscreens that doesn't leave a white cast are appearing on the market. Usually the titanium dioxide and zinc oxide particles are smaller, but not nano. One such sunscreen is from John Masters Organics, about which I'll talk in the second part of this post.

   At this point you might be thinking: so much bother! Why is being a woman so complicated? First it took me ages to find a bra that fits, and now I'm to spend a decade reading sunscreen ingredients lists? 

  Well, it really is worth the bother. If you want to slow the ageing of your skin, sunscreen is the most powerful tool you can use. Prevention is always much more effective that the cure. And cheaper too.

   This guy was a truck driver for 25 years, and one side of his face was continually by the window. Full article here.

   On that note, I'd like to talk about the sunscreen I am using at the moment. I took me literally years to find a product that I liked enough to actually use it every day. I already mentioned the John Masters Organics sunscreen among my May favourites, but it totally deserves its own review.

Review: John Masters Organics Sunscreen

   I mentioned this sunscreen in my May cosmetic favourites post. Now, let's go over with why this product is awesome.

    John Masters Organics Sunscreen has a light, creamy consistency. It applies very evenly, and soon sinks in almost completely. I apply an extra layer around my eyes (area prone to wrinkles) and above my upper lip (where I always get discolourations). The sunscreen leaves a very slight hint of whiteness on my face, so I usually dust hide-a-pore on it to even out the colour and matte it completely. Here it how it looks like:

John Masters Organics Sunscreen, on its own

Dusted with Hide-A-Pore from Sweetscents Minerals

    John Masters Organics Sunscreen is moisturising, and you will not to wear a moisturiser underneath unless your face is really dry. I have not had my pores clog up. It does not accentuate lines, pores or skin flakes, it does not migrate or shift into lines. Can be used around the eyes because it doesn't contain drying alcohol or irritating fragrance. I have never had it irritate my eyes (I'm a contact lenses wearer).
   The product comes in a handy bottle with a pump. I usually use three pumps on the face and to on the neck and decollete. The decollete is very important, I'm sure you have seen elder women with smooth, beautiful skin on the face and wrinkles and discolourations on their upper chest.
   The sunscreen smell is very very slight -- I have a very sensitive smell and it bothered me a lot in most other mineral sunscreens, but with this one I can barely smelly anything (most people will probably not smell anything at all).

INCI: Titanium Dioxide 7.5%, Zinc Oxide 5.0%, Aqua (water), aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice,* capric caprylic triglycerides, ethyl hexyl palmitate, glyceryl stearate, glycerin, cetyl alcohol, jojoba oil,* shea butter,* panthenol, tocopherol acetate, allantoin, sodium pca, green tea extract,* magnesium aluminum silicate, hyaluronic acid, calendula extract,* ethyl hexyl glycerin, benzyl alcohol

     Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide are the sunscreen. Especially zinc oxide is important because it protects against UVA. There are a couple of moisturisers: aloe barbadensis (aloe vera) leaf juice,  panthenol and hyaluronic acid. The aloe vera gives it a nice slip, similar to silicones. The oils are capric caprylic triglycerides (coconut oil and glycerin), jojoba oil and shea butter. It doesn't contain alcohol or fragrance, both of which don't do my fragile capillaries any favours. Does contain palm oil, which is an ecological issue.
    Its EWG rating is 2. The box recycled paper and soy ink. The John Masters Organics Sunscreen is cruelty-free and vegan.  It is USDA certified.

   I always apply the sunscreen before I go out, and I'm teaching myself to do it on overcast days too, since clouds don't block UV rays. I use my ex-favourite sunscreen oil from Eco Cosmetics for my shoulders when they are bare.

    Which sunscreen are you wearing this summer? Which one would you recommend to other women?

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Pictures Of Breasts With Narrow Roots, In Too Wide and Correct Underwires (NSFW)

   When you have found your correct bra size, you may still struggle with underwire width. The root or base of the breasts (the part that is attached to the chest) can range from very wide to very narrow. I have explained this here, and here. For G+ cups, this is also relevant. Also, remember that brands like Triumph have flimsy underwires that stretch out too much.
    Sometimes you know that your breasts have a narrow or wide root, sometimes you need to try out brands with underwires that are wide (Panache) or narrow (Freya, Comexim) to know. The underwire under the armpit should like more or less flush with the inframammery fold (the fold or crease where your boobs end under the armpit). If goes much beyond that and seems to be on your back, it is too wide. If it cuts of a part of your boob, it is too narrow.
    But how does that look like in real life? Today three lovely women with breasts that have a narrow root share photos of bras with underwires that did and didn't fit them.


Naked boobies below the fold. Even though it's against my personal convictions, I have censored the nipples so that the blog doesn't get an adult rating. Sigh. Click to read more!

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Tuesday, June 11, 2013

Reader Bra Metamorphosis 34B to 28F

     The Bra Metamorphosis is a series of posts that show photos of women before and after finding out their correct bra size. If you'd like to share your before and afters and inspire women to re-measure themselves, do contact me!
      Today's metamorphosis is from a small-busted woman, and demonstrates how it's not just the fuller busted ladies that benefit from getting a bra that fits perfectly. Here is TC's bra story in her own words:

        I measure 28" underbust when comfortably snug, 27" when pulling tight. My bust is 35" when standing, and 37" when leaning. I have a 26" waist.

     I do not consider myself busty. I don't feel top heavy, nor were my breasts ever something I worried or fussed over. I didn't develop until well into my late teen years, and was (and still am) a proud carrier of small breasts. When I was around 19 I suddenly grew breasts which were still small, but definitely present. I decided it was in my best interest to get some bras that actually had some padding instead of the non-wired, non-padded sports bras I had been wearing before. I was first put into a 34B, which seemed decent to me. Looking back, I can see the bands were riding up, the cups were cutting in and the gore was nowhere near my sternum.

    I stayed in these bras, and occasionally 34A's, sometimes 32C's (which were no better), until I studied abroad in Scotland for a semester a year ago. It was there that I happened upon a tiny bra boutique and went in out of curiosity. The women inside were wonderful. They asked if I had ever been fitted before, and I told them I was wearing 34B's. She said bluntly, "Sweetie, there is no way you are a 34 band. I wear 32's and I'm much wider than you." She pulled me into the back and after taking one look at my ill-fitting bra brought me a 28F Freya Jolie. I was shocked. I tried to give it back to her, saying "This looks way too small. Trust me, it won't even close." She laughed and told me to try it on. She helped me into the bra and, well, she was right. It fit a million times better than my old bra. I left that store with the Jolie and a newfound knowledge of how a bra should fit. My new bras improved my posture, made my clothes fit better, made my breasts look and feel better and truly increased my confidence. I actually had breasts, and they looked great!

     Since then, I have learned more about which bras fit me and which don't. I have even fullness, so tight upper sections sometimes cut in, but loose or stretchy upper sections sometimes gape, which can be very tricky. I need narrow wires, so I tend to stick to Freya as they have narrow wires and enough depth for my breasts, which aren't very shallow even though they are rather small. Nearly my entire bra wardrobe consists of unpadded and unlined bras as I have come to embrace my natural shape and the way these bras make me look. I am so glad I was properly sized and given the chance to change my view of bras and breasts. And even thought I am not a busty girl, I also benefited from properly fitting bras. Just because you aren't busty doesn't mean you should neglect your breasts! A well fitting bra will make your bust look larger (just look at my before and after!), firmer, well placed and naturally lovely. 


     Let's take a look at the side-by-side comparisons:

      You can see how the 28F underwire encases all of the breast whereas that of the 34B doesn't. Also, the 28 band lies much smoother even though it is snugger than the 34, and of course it stays horizontal. The shape of the breast is much more lifted and projected, making the breasts look bigger and shapelier.

   I'd like to thank TC for sharing her story with us. If you'd like to share yours, I'd love to have you! The "contact" button is on the top of the page, can't wait to hear from you!

   And if you haven't found your correct bra size yet, you can get started here.

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Tuesday, June 04, 2013

Weekend Reads + Parfait Affinitas Giveway Winners!

    Hello everyone, I know I was supposed to announce the winners yesterday but I was at a festival the last two days dancing my feet off, and didn't manage to write this post in time. So, first, what everyone has been waiting for:

The winners!

1. Dani Taylor

1. Lisa Briner Kilmer

1. Jennifer L. Cooke

1. Rachel Cooper

1.  Cate Yochum (Happy Birthday!)

1. Katie Clayton

1.  Jessica DiLullo

1. Caroline Borino

1. Noelle

1. K

   Each of you will be getting an email shortly. Please respond within three days, and make sure you mention which bra you want! (If you don't respond within three days, I will pick another winner). For the rest of you -- thanks for playing, and I wish you luck for the next giveway!

     Now it's has been raining here ever since I can remember, but I still had an amazing week. I danced my feet off (seriously, can hardly walk), and saw some amazing bands. I love festivals so much: dancing right below the stage, chilling out on the floor with a drink, the art and the workshops, the drunk / tired people sleeping in the corners.

     I totally forgot about last week's challenge (to wear a scarf tied in a different way each day). I did do something else though -- I was reading a lot about staying hydrated (it gives you energy! it minimises fine lines!) and I tried to drink a lot of water each day. 

   My challenge for this week is to learn my theater lines to perfection. I play hobby theater groups since I was sixteen, and it has helped me to grow and develop myself. The group I am part of now will be performing in July, and I need to have my lines perfect as soon as possible. This is not easy as my German isn't that good, and I mix up words or gender endings if I don't watch out.

  And here are the lovely links for your reading pleasure:

* Funny: Beyonce Art History

* Style: My year of fabulous is a hilariously written blog by a woman who wants to go from frumpy to stylish by trying out a different style each month. What I also find interesting is how she feels different and how people treat her differently when she is wearing rock vs mom clothes vs euro chic.

* Pretty: what a delightful photography blog!

* Life: Timers Rock!

* Tips: A great collection of fun and useful tips!

* How To Install a Power-Up Button On Your Body

* DIY: mosquito and tick spray

* Movie of the month: Blueberry. It's a psychedelic Western. Need I say more?

Love this song:

When Saints Go Machine - PARIX from Daniel de Vue on Vimeo.

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Sunday, June 02, 2013

Cosmetic Favourites May 2013: The Perfect Sunscreen + Amazing Cleansing Scrub

    This month I had a couple of disappointments, mostly due to the fact that I didn't read labels carefully. However I did find a couple of really fantastic products that I'd love to tell you about!

John Masters Organics SPF 30 Natural Mineral Sunscreen

   I finally found my perfect sunscreen! It's like my prayers have been answered. It is mineral but without nano particles, and without alcohol. And, best of all -- it doesn't leave a white mask on the face! It sinks in almost completely. A very slight whiteness is still visible but when I lightly dust my face with loose powder my skin looks perfect. The sunscreen combines both zinc oxide and titanium oxide, so it should have a decent UVB protection as well. The John Masters Organics sunscreen has not blocked my pores. It's also bio-degradable, organic, cruelty free and vegan.

   It's not very cheap, but I was lucky to find a deal on Zalando and I paid 23.95€ for 60ml instead of the usual 36€. A good sunscreen that is pleasant to use is probably the best investments I could make, so I will be re-buying this sunscreen in spite of the price.

Cattier Gommage Argile (White Clay Scrub)

   I got a sample together with something I bought on Ebay. I love this scrub! The scrubbing particles are very small so it doesn't scratch my skin at all. I actually leave it on for a couple of minutes before washing it out. The white clay is very effective in cleansing the pores. I applied it on a trouble patch I have on the forehead and the pores were visibly cleaner and smaller. The white clay is gentle and the mask doesn't dry out the skin. If you have acne or need a more intensive cleansing, you should try the scrub with the green clay. A little bit of the product goes a long way, a sample sachet was good for eight applications (only on the T-zone). 

Weleda Wild Rose Oil

  This is a lovely body oil that I love to use on the drier parts of my face. It is light, soothing and smells divine. Seriously, the smell is dreamy! The skin becomes more supple with time. I got a mini-sized bottle, not the full-sized one. The only negative I see here is the price.

And the not-so-favourites:

Rival de Loop Straffende Anti-Aging Pflege Lifting Serum

    This is an anti-aging serum with Q10 and Collagen. Collagen is, in spite of all the hype, just a good moisturiser -- but together with Panthenol it is a good yet light moisturiser. Everything went well, till I noticed Dimethicone in the ingredient list. Even though this silicone is water soluble, I struggle with blocked pores, and I am sure it is not helping the situation. Will not buy again. 

Rival de Loop Clean And Care Eye Makeup Remover

    If I'm not mistaken this is a micellar cleanser, and I was excited to find one cheaper that the Bioderma Sensibio I had been using so far. I am a fan of micellar cleansers because they are thorough but gentle. This one does work well, removing makeup without drying the skin at all. I have been using it for my entire face, not just the eyes. However only right now I noticed that it contains two parabens, and one of them appears too high up on the list. I won't be rebuying this.

Sante Herbal Hair Colours Mahogany Red

   This was unfortunately a disappointment. Not only was the colour nowhere as intensive as the one from Henné Color, it also made my scalp itch. The colour is more like a tint. The only plus is that the mixture is much easier to apply than the Henné Color because the texture is smoother and less muddy. I was really hoping it would work well because it does have a natrue seal, which means I can be completely sure it doesn't contain unwanted chemicals (I can't be totally sure of the Henné Color). Now I still have Logona to test.
   Update: another plus is that the Logona colour is free from Sodium Picramate, unlike Henne Color.

Chanel Lipstick

   I got a small one (sample? Or travel sized?) at a flea market for one euro. It does live up to its hype. The texture is dreamy, super easy to apply. The colour is intensive and stays on really long. The downside? According to Öko Test, Chanel lipsticks contain ingredients linked to cancer, as well as other not-so-nice ingredients. Chanel also refuses to disclose the ingredients of their products, a practice which I am very critical of. As we ingest a large part of whatever we apply on our lips, I will leave this little tube for special occasions and will stick to natural brands for every day.


   What are your cosmetic hits of the month? Anything I absolutely should try?

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Saturday, June 01, 2013

How To Get Rid Of Acne + How Food Intolerance Causes Skin Problems

   "I am 19 years old and ever since I hit puberty I've had chest acne. I've done a lot of different things to try and treat it (applying acne medicine (multiple different types), keeping it clean, oil papers to keep the oil off, stop touching my chest/bust area) but it never goes away. Is there anything you would recommend or am I just, sadly, stuck with it?"

   This query popped into my mailbox a while back. The advice I have is not really specific to chest acne but is relevant to any kind of acne.
    You are definitely not stuck with acne! You definitely can make it go away, but it will take some trial-and-error to find the right solution. Acne is a symptom rather than an issue and can have many different reasons, so there is no one single cure for everyone.

   The most common reason of acne are food intolerances. Once a doctor explained to me that skin problems are not skin diseases, rather they are symptoms of dysfunctions of organs, a view that is supported by Traditional Chinese Medicine.
    Our food today is often quite difficult to digest -- we have never eaten so much processed stuff, sugars, diary, gluten; and we have never ingested to many chemicals as we do now. Very often the body freaks out at some point and is overwhelmed, and develops and intolerance or allergy. What exactly causes the problem varies from person to person, so you will have to analyse your diet and try to eliminate the problem.

   A very common culprit could be sugar, processed food or over-fried fatty food. I have breakouts after chocolate, a guy I know gets back acne from soft drinks.
    Diary intolerance is also closely linked to acne. If you do have serious problems digesting lactose, you probably have digestion problems, stomach aches, bloating. Ask your doctor for a lactose-intolerance test. However is your diary intolerance is mild, you just have to try giving up diary for a while and see whether your skin clears up.
    Do read up about the Paleo way of eating. People who eat like that usually see a huge improvement in their skin.

   Though diary and sugar are the most common causes of skin problems, there are two other food groups that can also mess up the skin: meat and gluten.

   I was on the phone with my dad, who became a vegetarian back in the times when it was considered unhealthy and even dangerous. A friend of his had heavy acne on his face and was always embarrassed because of it. My dad persuaded him to try a meat-free way of eating, and the guy's acne disappeared. The guy stuck to being a vegetarian and was quite grateful to my dad.
   Gluten intolerance: I am not sure if it might cause acne per se, but I know that it can cause other issues. A friend of mine had hands with pretty bad dermatitis, and she tried out eating gluten-free and her hands are now healed.

   Do analyse what you eat and what could be affecting you. If something jumps out (obviously eating too much sugars, or feeling bad after eating a certain food), try removing completely it from your diet for a month. If nothing jumps out, you will have to do a bit of trial-an-error. Remember that two weeks is a minimum here, because the body takes a while to get used to changes.

   Stress is also a huge contributing factor to skin issues. If you can't get rid of the cause of the stress (for example ending a toxic relationship), or learning to manage it better (for someone overwhelmed by their daily tasks it would be reading a book on time management); try learning to cope with it better: exercise, EFT, meditation and yoga are just some suggestions.

Topical solutions:

  Here some effective ways to deal with acne. Everyone's skin is different, so what may instantly work for one person may not work on another. It may take some trial-and-error to find what works for you:

* Switch your laundry products, especially if you are using scented ones.
* Don't over-do it with the cleaning. Aggressive cleaning makes the body produce even more oils. Use a gentle soap (something for sensitive skin) or even an intimate cleanser like the Facelle (they are gentle and pH neutral).
* Try a light moisturiser after cleansing. Keeping the skin moisturised will help to cut down the body's oil production.
* Try applying cider apple vinegar on it: start with 3:1 water to vinegar, and work your way up to 1:3. Wipe on with a cotton ball at night.
* Try applying tea tree oil on the problem areas.
* Clay masks work really well for some people. I especially recommend bentonite or green kaolin clay.
* Try taking vitamin B
* Try BHA (Salicylic Acid): something with 2% salicylic acid (soap, face cleanser or cream -- search among drugstore products), or try the DIY aspirin face mask.
* Try AHAs: if nothing else worked, AHAs might be the solution. Look for pharmacy brands for products or make your own. Start with mandaleic acid or lactic acid which are gentler, and start with low concentrations. 

Finally some common sense advice:

* Don't touch the skin in the problem area
* Drink plenty of water
* Wear cotton or other breathable fabric
* Keep the bed sheets clean!

  If nothing works, you might have go to a dermatologist. On this note, I want to mention that hormones are a common cause of acne, so you might still outgrow yours. If you are on birth control, trying another brand of pills often works.


   Do any of you have any tips for getting rid of acne -- products or techniques that worked for you? Do share in the comments.

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Wednesday, May 29, 2013

Sew Your Own Custom Bra Tutorial -- The Patterns

This is the fourth part of the Sew Your Own Custom Bra Tutorial Series from the lovely Amber!

    Let's start talking sewing patterns today! But before we get into bra patterns, let me briefly discuss non bra patterns.

    I've been sewing for pretty much 2/3 of my life at this point, and I've sewn quite a lot of projects -and left a sizable pile of projects unfinished, I'm horrible about this- and I get overwhelmed very quickly with pattern choices out there if I'm wanting to sew something specific. What I typically do, is explore my options, find a pattern I really like, and then make multiples; of course changing the fabric choices. This is actually quite common in the general sewing blogging community. The same can be said about purchasing clothing items! Find something cute and flattering in the cut/style and then buy as many colors as you want. And of course, the same can be said about purchasing bras.

   Back to pattern shopping and browsing. There are a TON of options out there, and it's really easy to get overwhelmed! So, what are the things to look for in a bra pattern?

1) Do they make your size, or thereabouts?

    This is probably the MOST OBVIOUS of the bullet points. Of course, you'll need to be aware of their sizing system, because each pattern maker can (and will) use their own system to indicate size changes. For the most part, I've seen pattern makers use the letters of the alphabet to indicate cup sizes, and they generally don't use double letters at all.

2) How versatile is the pattern?

   Ultimately, you'll be the one to decide on if you want experiment and try something different with the bra, but really; it's up to you. Here are some things you can potentially do with a bra pattern:

* Create a longline bra. (I'm not aware of any patterns that currently exist out there, but I could be wrong; either way it's more cost efficient to have one pattern that you can make changes to. Besides, it's always easier to add to a pattern, harder to take away.)
* Create lingerie that is comfortable and supportive in the cups and hugs your curves properly.
* Sew a dress with structured and supportive cups.

3) Does the bra pattern have a full band or a partial/triparte band?

   Partial band patterns can create some serious sewing frustrations  especially if you're a beginner at sewing; the one thing being that the pattern will be for multiple bra sizes, but the pattern doesn't call for you to adjust the gore width, which can be extremely problematic if your breasts don't have the exact width between your breasts that the pattern calls for. Quite honestly, I think it would be extremely prudent to avoid triparte bands and just stick with full banded bras; these patterns will ultimately be easier to manipulate and adjust. (I have written about the better support and fit the full-banded bras give here -- E*V).

   There are lots of bra sewing patterns; some with a basic 2 piece cup construction, and then some that have side support pieces and then additional pieces where the seaming is vertical, so you end up with a 3 or 4 piece cup pattern. After consideration, I have decided to use a basic 2 piece cup pattern for this tutorial, because in essence it can be used as a block, or a master pattern if you will. A block in pattern making is typically a VERY basic piece that enables you to customize it to create different looking items; it saves space as well as money.

   According to Dixie's List, most of the online suppliers of materials also sell bra patterns. If you look at the bottom of the list, she's compiled a list of patterns and their size range. My favorite pattern? It's not mentioned on Dixie's list, but it's actually found in a book called "Bare Essentials: Bras" and it's written by Jennifer Lynne Matthews-Fairbanks. You can purchase the book directly from her website -- warning the website loads slow for some reason- or you can even find it on various marketplaces for digital versions of the book, and then you can purchase the pdf file patterns from her website. What I like about the book and patterns, is that she provides step by step guides on how to make alterations to the pattern for various things such as making a nursing bra, or if you need a pocket for a prosthesis or push up pad. The big seller for me is the wide range of sizes her patterns include. It's advertised as "30A-40J" or basically A-GG in UK cup sizing. She offers a total of 60 different sizes, which to me is extremely impressive, and it's what ultimately sold me on buying her book and pattern. Of course, there are ways to expand on the offered sizes; so even if you need a smaller band size than 30, you can alter the band smaller, and if you need a cup size that's slightly out of the range of what's offered in your band size, there are ways to get a bra that fits in the cups and the band.

   Ultimately, whatever pattern you buy is up to you. Just make sure that the pattern has a full band, and at least a two piece cup construction.

Posted by Eternal*Voyageur
at Monday, May 27, 2013