My Experience At The Benefit Brow Bar At Douglas


I could  give Frida Kahlo a run for her money in the brow department. My eyebrows also grow ridiculously fast, which is both great and annoying. I have had a lot of different styles over the years. It usually went this way: I saw some amazing arches in a film or on a blog, and I rushed to the mirror and did my best to copy the look. Some of my efforts include straight Korean brows (or as close as I could get), classical arches from the diagrams you see in magazines (which, by the way, only work on classically shaped faces), and an almost perfect copy of Maria from Lost In A Spotless Mind. It was while looking back at photos from my Blair Waldorf from season 1 eyebrow phase that I realised that you need to take the entire face into account when shaping eyebrows -- the face shape, shape of the eyes, the cheeks. Blair's dainty arches were pretty by themselves but they threw my whole face off-balance. I remember that my mother told me when I was a teenager that thin eyebrows don't suit me at all because they make my face look bottom-heavy.

Anyway, I finally needed some kind of brow expert to do my eyebrows. Someone suggested the Benefit Brow Bar, and when I googled reviews it sounded good. I decided that if I'm going to get my brows shaped there, I'm going to do it properly. Which meant growing out my eyebrows. This made me nervous because I haven't seen the unplucked shape of my arches since I was 14. It took weeks, and made me really thankful for my bangs. I have to confess that I did pluck between my brows. Then me and my grown-out brows went to the local Douglas, which is where the Benefit Brow Bars here are.

I actually made several passes around the Benefit stand first, and then timidly chatted up the salesgirl, trying to see what the stylist's own eyebrows looked like. I liked them, so I asked for a brow session. I mentioned that I don't want my brows to look too thin. The whole procedure took around 15 minutes and was done with wax, with small corrections were done with tweezers. I was happy that she didn't use scissors because in my opinion snipped eyebrow hair give a touch of stiffness and fakeness to the brows. At the end she used a brow mascara. I didn't opt for a dye because my brows are dark already.

The stylist showed me the way my brows were asymmetrical and how she was working with that, which was extremely helpful. She didn't change the shape of my brows much, however she
What really surprised me about waxing is the really clean effect. I realised that waxing removes even the tiny hair that I don't bother with when I pluck, and this makes the eyebrows look sharper -- as if I had used concealer on the area.


Here are the results:


 As you can see the general shape is cleaned up, the tail of the longer brow was shortened, and the peak of the left brow was removed and the lower line of the right arch was made to match the left. The space between the brows was lightly widened.

My only criticism is that at the end the lady asked me if she should cover up the skin that war red from plucking with concealer. I said yes, so she proceeded to apply what under the strong light looked like a normal amount of concealer. Outside in daylight it looked as if it were applied with a shovel.

The upkeep:

I am maintaining my brows at home because I have neither the time nor the budget to get regular waxes. Also I can't imagine letting the hair grow out between sessions. So I tweeze.
Getting my brows professionally done has been amazing, after several months I still love the shape and it works really well with the rest of my face.

If you have been thinking about getting your brows done at the Benefit Brow Bar, In my opinion it's well worth the investment. It's pretty important to get a good photo of your brows after the session. I though it would be enough to just pluck out the hair that grew back, but after a while I noticed that I had strayed away from the shape I got at Benefit. The photos I took help me to get the right shape again. I also made my own stencil, which is a fun little project. If you would you like to see a post about that, let me know.



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My Favourite Resource For Simple And Easy Hairstyle Tutorials


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I'm pretty bad at doing my hair. I can't seem to coordinate the movements of my hands and their reflection in the mirror, and even if I do manage to follow the instructions the hairstyle usually doesn't stay in place. Still, I have been trying to expand my repertoire a bit. It's not easy finding good tutorials. American ones start by layering tons of products and then torturing the hair with heat, neither of which goes with my hair care philosophy. Also I don't own almost any styling products or tools, mainly because my bathroom is small and I just don't have the space. Lots of tutorials don't really explain how to do the in-between steps, others are just too complicated.

I don't remember how it happened that I stumbled onto this Japanese site, but I was pretty fascinated by their stuff, especially by their hair tutorials. Their home organisation stuff is pretty great too, but the hairstyle tutorials were unlike anything I had found on the Internet. Most of these hairstyles are really easy to do, plus they don't need special tools or products. Each post has variations on a theme -- low messy bun, half up, braid, short bob, etc.

The MP4s are short and to the point, there is no rambling that annoys me so much on Youtube. You can right-click the videos to slow them down or download them and save them on your phone. Here are a couple that I like:

This one is really simple to do yet looks sophisticated.


 
One nice technique I learnt is pulling gently at the hair strands to get that lovely texture. You can see that on the video above. That small touch completely transforms the simple hairstyle.


 This is one of the many stylish low bun tutorials from the site. Such low buns are perfect to wear with caps and hats.




 A lovely variation on the braid.


I don't speak a lick of Japanese, and though you could use Google translate to read the rest of the text on the page I find that the tutorials speak for themselves. I have successfully tried out many of the hairstyles show on Locari. I find that the causal messy-chic aesthetic works really well even if you are not terribly good with hair.

Are you good at hairstyles? If so, where did you learn? Or is this just something you have to be born with?


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Armpit Rolls And Back Fat: How To Get Rid Of Them






Most armpit fat is... migrated breast tissue. This migration is caused by wearing the wrong bra size. Parts of your breasts escape to the armpit or even the back area due to wearing too small cups + too loose band !


The underwire cuts the breast almost in half

How breast tissue migrates into armpit rolls:

Most of us wear a band that is too loose, and cups that are too small. Even if we have used an online bra calculator, and even if we have had a professional bra fitting.
Most average bra producers don't produce a good range of sizes. A good size range means at least 60 sizes in each model: bands starting from 28(60), and cups till K. A bra fitter in a regular store will not fit you correctly because she has to sell you whatever sizes the store carries.

Nobody likes to live in cramped conditions, so the breasts sneak out of the too-small cups into the armpit area. Presto ! Instant armpit rolls !
You can spot such badly fitted bras even on most lingerie ads. Often the model poses in a way that the problem is less visible, or the photo is retouched.


The Tail Of Spence is next to the small blue bow.
Below that is breast tissue that belongs inside the cup.
To those of you who are saying: that is not breast tissue, that is fat: breast tissue is mostly fat. And if you're looking for "proof" that the rolls on the armpits or fat are from the breasts, I can only say: try this out and you'll see how much of it rejoins the breasts in a couple of weeks. Also: yes, Tail Of Spence is a thing, but it is a small roll near the top of the armpit crease. Most armpit rolls are much more than just the Tail Of Spence. And if you try the method below, your Tail Of Spence will stay where it is, while the rest of the migrated breast tissue will rejoin the breasts.
 


 
Yes, that is breast tissue !

How back rolls happen:

Very often migration doesn't stop at the armpit area. The loose band allows the breast tissue to slip further away, and ends up as back rolls.

How to get rid of armpit and back rolls:

Step one: measure yourself for a bra. Forget any measurements that bra-fitter or calculators have given you before, 90% of them are usually wrong. Find out your real size.
If you think you are already wearing the right size, try this test:     
Bend over at the waist.
With your palms, gather all the fat from the underarms into the bra cup. (Here it is video demonstration). Now stand up.
Most probably your boobs are spilling out of front of the cups. This means that till now, you have been wearing cups that are too small, and a band that is too loose.
(If your bra band is really loose, you might want to close it at the tightest hook or even tie it into a knot for this test.)

Step two: Each day as you put on your bra, gather the migrated flesh back into the cups (detailed instructions *here*). This should take less than 5 seconds a day.

 After a month or so, your armpit rolls will have disappeared, and you will probably go up a cup size. Your bust area will be looking much better. And you will be wondering how in the world could you have squashed yourself into the old wrong size.


Originally posted on 2009.09


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Favourite Beauty Products: Spring 2017




 I haven't bought much new products in the last year, because I tend to stick to things that have worked for me in the past. So I rebuy my favourites again and again. However I have a couple of new things that I really like I'd like to share with you. Most of them aren't really new, except the Kiko pen I've been using these products for months if not longer, however I haven't written about them on the blog.

Luvos Hydro Maske face mask

I was looking for something very moisturising in the winter and this was my favourite of all the masks I tried. Its very nourishing yet not too heavy, and I think that it works for all skin types. It's lightly tinted and I have been known to leave it on like a regular cream when my skin really needed it. One sachet is enough for several applications. I got it from the Müller but it's also available in Douglas.
The mask is certified organic (BDIH).

Waldfussel Deodorants

I think I mentioned Waldfussel already -- Gentle and effective deodorants that I have been using for several years. They have really lovely scents that are created with essential oils (no synthetic fragrances). Although they are based on sodium bicarbonate they don't dry the skin as the diy baking soda deodorants thanks to Shea butter and jojoba oil.
Celtic smells like a herby meadow, the scent is very green and not at al sweet. Frühlingsblüte is amazing -- it's flowery without being sweet. I can't stand sweet scents on me. This scent is a dry, tart flowery note; lightly spicy without crossing over into the heady oriental territory. These deodorants leave a bit of whiteness on the armpits so I don't wear them with sleeveless clothes, instead I sometimes dab them behind my ears for their scent.
Waldfussel ships within the EU (if you're in Britain and want these you'd better hurry), however you'd need to use google translate if you don't speak German.

 Alverde Gesichtsöl Wildrose face oil

A really nice dry-feeling oil mix that I like to use in the evening for my facial massages. It feels really smooth and not sticky, and is also great to use on the hair when I want a little bit of oil to tame frizz. The oil is a mix of jojoba oil, almond oil, peach seed oil, rose hip oil and coconut oil, all lovely nourishing oils and no cheap "filler" oil.
The dropper bottle is really practical to use and will stay with me long after the contents are used up.

Rose hip oil

I wanted to get a good anti-ageing oil and rose hip is a great candidate with its vitamin A and antioxidants. It feels a tad heavier than the Alverde Gesichtsöl, but not sticky. It's calming and suitable for all skin types, including the very sensitive. It doesn't block the pores and it's a good oil if you tend towards acne. It's supposed to be minimise scarring when applied on fresh scars, however I don't have any fresh ones to test it on.
I get most of my pure oils from the local Hobbythek store because they are good and cheap, but you can find rose hip oil in other places as well. Look for 100% rose hip oil, if possible cold-pressed and organic.

Wala Solum Öl

This little oil is something I have been using since several years before sleeping. It is calming and is meant to provide a kind of protective shield for persons that are sensitive to the environment. The lavender scent is very calming. Rubbing it into the nape of my neck really helps me with stress-related headaches. People I know also use it on their joints when they feel pain due to changes in the weather.

Kiko long-lasting eyeshadow stick

Since a long time I have been looking for a deep blue eyeshadow that is pigmented enough to not look like that 80s pastel look when applied. I finally stumbled upon the Kiko sticks, which surprised me with their pigmentation and ease of use.
and picked up the #44. It's a beautiful cobalt blue that works really well on deep autumns as well as true autumns, all winters and clear springs. The tip came from a video of Violette, who is the queen of blue eyeshadow. It's easy to apply and beautifully pigmented. It does gather in the crease a bit if I don't use a base (or set it with powder). The #17 is a deep sapphire blue with a bit of shimmer that would work for deep autumns, all winters and true summer; and there are a couple of other shades of blue (source). Two other shades that I really liked are the #28 and #34 which would make great highlighters for warmer and cooler skin tones.

If you have any questions, let me know. If you have tried any of the products I wrote about here, how did you like them?


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Reader Request: How To Keep The Crotch Area Smelling Fresh





I'm not sure whether you are asking about crotch sweat or vaginal odours here, so I'll write about both.
A healthy vagina has a musky smell -- this is perfectly normal! However it should not smelly rotten or fishy -- in this case you might have an infection in light cases a probiotic supplement might help, but if you feel a lot of discomfort you should definitely see a doctor. 
I already wrote about how internal cleaning is harmful, however the vulva (external bits) should be cleaned thoroughly, usually twice a day. A pH-neutral cleanser is best, however a mild (SLS-free) soap is fine too. It's best to avoid any products with fragrance.

On to the crotch now. The groin area has apocrine sweat glands  (the same type as the armpits), which smells pungent when decomposed by bacteria. So it might be the culprit if things aren't exactly smelling fresh.

Exfoliating the area regularly is the best way to keep things smelling fresh. Dead skin that has not yet shed can trap sweat and bacteria. An exfoliating glove or brush is usually better than a scrub. Gently scour the outer vulva, butt, and especially the crease where the thighs are connected to the torso. 

A light dusting of powder soaks up any moisture.
To keep the air circulation going, cotton underwear is best, especially if you are going for more coverage. Avoid trousers out of synthetic materials that don't allow for air circulation.

Finally, water and soap will clean things a hundred times better than toilet paper will. I mean, would you be satisfied with cleaning your hands with only dry paper? There are many ways of going the water route, but bidet attachments are cheap and can be installed easily (without professional help) on most toilets.

If you haven't tried a menstrual cup yet, the lack of smell is another good reason to take the plunge. In short the blood doesn't get into contact with oxygen, so there is no smell.

Finally, remember that we aren't flower bouquets, it is biologically impossible to smell like one all the time. Especially at the end of a well-lived day. While it's a good idea to keep baby wipes around to freshen up at the end of such a the day, there is no need to get paranoid about normal body scents. While you might be attuned to your own smell, chances are nobody else around you can smell anything at all.

Do you have any favourite ways of dealing with such issues? Let me know!


Photo credit: Viliman Viliman

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DIY Foot Peel Recipe For Calloused Feet


DIY Foot Peel with AHAs Masks



I was complaining to a friend that I couldn't find any of those Asian peel-off masks for feet in any store in Germany. She reminded me that I could probably make my own. So I did. After a couple of experiments I'm ready to present a small tutorial.

I feel that scrubbing and scraping cracked heels with all those scrubbing devices doesn't really help in the long terms because it leaves the skin rough. Skin on the feet has all these layers and when they are unevenly sanded down they continue peeling and cracking. Chemical exfoliants make the skin peel of layer per layer, this leaves behind smooth skin that is not prone to further cracking.

Warning:
Do not use hydroxy acids on heels that are so cracked that wounds appear. Also, be very careful and don't get them on the skin on your face, hands, your eyes. The skin around the heels is very thick and tough, the skin on the rest of your body is not.


DIY Foot Peel Tutorial:

I tried out both alpha and beta hydroxy acids and I found that they work very differently on the feet.

AHA feet mask for mildly dried heels

On heels that are lightly damaged you can just apply straight-up AHA. I used lactic acid which I happened to have and applied it undiluted with a cotton pad on my heels. The result is quite gentle and you get nicely smooth heels. However if you are at the hoof stage, you will not notice much of a difference.

BHA feet mask for moderately cracked heels

If your heels are in worse shape like mine were, you need to get out the heavy guns. After reading a lot about it I decided to start with 30% strength Salicylic Acid just on the heels. This means you use 30% Salicylic acid and 70% somethings else -- I used isopropyl alcohol because SA doesn't dissolve well in water. It dissolves really well in Ethanol, but I didn't have any.
If you want to use the mixture on your entire foot I'd recommend making two batches -- one 30% or more for the heels, and 10% or less for the rest of the foot.

Well, the Salicylic acid didn't dissolve too well in alcohol either, so I applied the paste on my entire heel area and hoped for the best. I waited for it to dry and put on socks over it. The peeling started after two days and went on for a couple more. In the end I got smooth baby skin.

After this I used AHA once a week to prevent the thick skin from building up.

Urea is another product used in heel masks, as it  works very similarly to hydroxy acids. I'd suggest starting with 15% Urea and 85% water or alcohol (for example 15ml Urea and 85ml water).

Do let me know if you try this method. If you use ready-made baby foot masks, which one is your favourite?

Photo credit: Juja Han

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Simple Cosmetic DIY: Rice Water Toner



Simple Cosmetic DIY: Rice Water Toner


Today I was making Risotto (from the book The Everlasting Meal, which is just amazing) and as usual I poured away some rice liquid for my cosmetic needs. At that moment I realised that I have never written about it even though I have been using rice water since years.

To make rice water you first rinse out your rice (you should rinse all grains before cooking them). The rice should preferably be organic, as most non-organic rice contains arsenic and other pesticides. For those in central Europe, last month's Öko Test showed Oryza rice as the only one that was acceptable out of all the rice tested.
Then you add water again and swirl the rice and let it sit for 15 minutes, and you pour away a cup of that water. Cook the rice and eat it or whatever. The rice water now has very fine rice particles in it. I let mine stand in the kitchen for a few days till it starts to ferment, then I use it as a toner or a mild morning cleanser in the next few days. You can also use it as a base for home-made masks, mix it with clays, or as an essence for a sheet mask.

Rice water has vitamins B and E, as well as lots of minerals. Also the rice powder in the water leaves the skin lightly matte and smooth. Rice powder is sold by mineral makeup brands as a base or a finishing veil that absorbs oils and smooths out pores, this kind of does the same.

The rice kind of ferments over the next few days and the pH level rises to a mild acidic value, which is great for the skin. It smells a bit sour but is fine to use for a week or so.

Have you ever tried rice water? Let me know in the comments if it works for you.



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Non-smelly Alternative To Vinegar For Restoring The Hair's Acid Mantle



Non-smelly Alternative To Vinegar For Acidifying Hair


This post should be tagged "duh". For a long time I wished for something that would be as acidic as apple cider vinegar but without the smell. I use diluted cider vinegar as the last rinse or to clarify the hair. The water in my town is pretty hard and an acidic last rinse is the key to smooth shiny hair. Anyway, it does take some time for the vinegar smell to dissipate, so I avoid using it before going out.
So as I was cleaning my kitchen I suddenly realised that I could easily substitute vinegar with soap nuts! They are just as acidic, and my hair loves them. They have a neutral smell. The only downside is the extra preparation time: you need to cover a couple of nuts with hot water and by the time the water cools down it's ready. You can reuse the nuts a couple of times.

Of course soap nuts are not exactly the same as vinegar, for one they do not contain living bacteria cultures. Both work well for my hair but yours may prefer one or another. Soap nuts are more cleansing and can be used on their own to wash the hair.

PS I have read that we shouldn't use soap nuts because the people in India can't afford them any more -- I have almost never seen anyone in India actually using them for their hair or their laundry, apart from a small alternative community (who actually learned about them from an organic store in Germany). Soap nuts are often an ingredient in hair care products though.

Do you use soap nuts or cider vinegar for your hair?




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Lets Talk About Feminine Hygiene And Health




Today I realised that my 7-year-old menstruation cup needs to be replaced immediately and I rushed to the DM to get a new one. While standing in line I realised that ever since I've been using the cup, I haven't had a vaginal infection, not even a it-could-be-one kind. It's because the cup doesn't interfere with the pH balance and the beneficial bacteria (unlike tampons), and it doesn't create a wet environment where germs could breed (unlike pads), and doesn't leach chemicals (unlike both).

Anyway, today I wanted to share a couple of tips related to feminine care and hygiene. But first I just want to say that I'm going to be using the anatomically correct words here, vulva means the outer parts, and vagina means vulva + the canal till the cervix. 

The vagina is self-cleaning, the vulva is not.

When the vagina is healthy, it has a light vagina smell which is normal. Douches and internal cleaning just disrupts the delicate ecosystem. 
However the vulva can get swampy and smelly if not kept clean. The outer lips should be washed thoroughly with a mild cleanser or soap that is pH neutral.

Probiotics against recurring vaginal infections:

If you keep on getting infections down there, you might want to try out taking probiotics to reestablish a healthy bacteria culture. These are available without a prescription. There are hundreds of different strains of bacteria out there, as well as different type of vaginal infections, so it might take you a bit of trial and error to see what works best for you. Try to look for ones that have the strains L. rhamnosus and L. reuterii, L. acidophilus and L. casei. Also remember to not take these at the same time as antibiotics, as the latter will just neutralise the former.

Magnesium for easier periods

Most people in the west are magnesium deficient, so you probably should be supplementing this anyway. Magnesium makes cramps lighter.

Air circulation

Cotton underwear is healthiest since it allows air to circulate. Bacteria breed in moist environments! For the same reason it's a good idea to sleep sans underwear or to wear loose boxers that allow air circulation.

Avoid perfume and other irritants:

Switching to natural laundry detergents is always a good idea because there is almost always some of it left on our clothes. Also never use scented toilet paper -- most synthetic perfumes are highly irritating.


Let me know if you can recommend something or if this post was useful. Or maybe you have some questions?

Photo credit: Kira Ikonnikova

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My Experinces With Laser Hair Removal + Tips






They bad thing about having strong and fast-growing hair is having strong and fast-growing hair everywhere. I have been getting is lasered off in the past couple of years. It was a bit different than what I expected, yet I'm really satisfied.


I got my armpits and the bikini line done. The pain is similar to someone snapping an elastic band against your skin.

Body image disclaimer:

I'm not saying everyone has to go and remove all body hair. If you prefer to keep body hair, that's fine. If you prefer to remove (some of) your body hair, that's fine too. This post is intended to provide some useful tips for those considering laser hair removal.

So, did it work?

Yes, but. I was expecting the hair to be completely gone after a couple of sessions, but that didn't happen. After four sessions of bikini lasering there is a bit of fine hair left, but it doesn't come grow out stubbly and doesn't show much. Also, NO INGROWNS. I had to write that in capitals because that is the best part. Also the skin on my underarms used to be permanently bumpy, now it's smooth like a baby's.
Already after the first session the remaining hair was much easier to shave off and I stopped getting irritated skin and those bumpy follicles, so it was totally worth it. 
Of course I could also invest in a couple sessions more, but it seems to be a Zeno's arrow thing. The laser zaps only the hair which are in a specific stage of their life cycle, which is probably like one-third to half of the hair at any given time. Interestingly one beautician told me that women who have always shaved have hair that is more in sync, while those who have waxed / epilated have hair all over the place when it comes to the growth cycle.

Also the hair tends to grow back a bit, one or two sessions each year are necessary for maintenance -- I'm not sure if I'll be doing that because I'm cheap.
Another tip: one beautician told me that lasering the upper lip is usually not worth the money as the hair is comparatively fine and hard to zap.

How to get the best out of your laser hair removal:

First, check exactly what kind of laser the studio has, as they are not equally effective. The studio website usually mentions the laser type, you can google that. You'll need less session with a strong laser than a weak one. On this note, IPL is no real laser and it's not even permanent.
You need to stop waxing or depilating and only shave for at least three months in advance. Cream hair removal should be avoided a couple of weeks before laser.
If you'll be getting any sun at all, invest in a good SPF50 cream, and keep the area covered. 
 You need to plan your appointments around days when you won't be a) sweating, b) going out in the sun, c) taking antibiotics d) swimming / sauna. All these things can cause your skin to either get discoloured or inflamed.
If you're getting your underarms done, remember that you can't use deodorant that day. Baby powder can help keep things fresh.

Don't pick on the scabs that form after the hair removal session.

When (not) to get laser hair removal:

You need to pick a period where you won't be on the beach as the sun can cause a lot of damage to freshly lasered skin. Apparently if you travel to somewhere tropical, not even clothes and sunscreen can protect lasered skin.
You also need top wait a couple of weeks after using depilatory creams, fake tan, or getting a real tan.
Wait till your tan has completely faded, the paler your skin the better the laser will work. The best time is late autumn or winter, as you don't have to worry about sun damage. The exception here are the armpits, they can be lasered even in the summer because you don't walk around with your arms lifted up.
If you are a woman and plan to have kids any time soon, wait till you are done unless you have money to burn. Pregnancy hormones often causes the hair to grow back.

You can't do laser hair removal if you are taking antibiotics, as they make the skin very susceptible to damage. If you do fall sick and have to pop some, you need to postphone your next session by at least 2 weeks.
Medications such as certain antibiotics, iron supplements, St John's Wort or sleeping pills can make you susceptible to a phytotoxic reaction. If you have been taking any, you need to wait before  your laser appointment.
Here is an exhaustive list of the contraindications, including skin issues, birth control and medicaments.

Groupon makes lasering affordable:

Around spring Groupon usually has deals on laser hair removal. Around here it came down to ca 20€ per session (doesn't matter which body part). Do you get what you pay for with Groupon? One of the studios I went to was really amazing with a really modern laser machine, they were on Groupon because they just opened and were looking to attract customers. The other one wasn't that great, they didn't give me all the information about contraindications and after-care (thankfully I had researched online), also their laser was a tad weaker. The place where I lasered my underarms was much weaker, so even after 8 sessions there is a bit of hair left.
It makes sense to buy at least 4 sessions on Groupon, that is the minimum it takes to clean up an area.
Apparently the laser patent will be expiring really soon, which should make lasering much more affordable.

 So, you can let me know if you have any questions. Or maybe you've had a laser hair removal and would like to share your experiences? Comment below!
Photo credit: Stas Kules

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