Are Self-Tanning Concentrate Serums -- An Alternative To Regular Self-Tanners

I like using self-tanner all year round. It's a bit like makeup for the body, it smoothens things out a bit. Plus it makes my winter skin look like it's summer outside, which just puts me in a good mood. Also I'm actually more responsible about not overexposing my skin to the sun if I already got my tan from a tube.

This spring I switched from a self-tanning cream to a concentrate. I had a slight mishap in the beginning and looked like a certain ex-presiden of the US for a few days. But now I really love it.

You mix a couple of drops into your regular skin care, apply it on your skin, and wait till the next day for the colour to develop.

The advantages of a self-tanning concentrate:

* You can control the intensity of the tanning. You can gradually layer for the streak-free effect. Just add the smallest amount to your skin care product each day for a few days. If you want to get a more intensive colour, fast, you can use more product.

* It's a tiny amount of a serum, so it won't clog your pores.

* The self-tanner smell gets masked by the scent of the product you mix it with. It's not completely gone, but it's much less.

* It takes up less space in your bathroom or travel bag.

* You don't have to choose between skincare and self-tanning. I can add the self-tanner concentrate to a very rich body moisturiser when my skin is dry, or to a vit C serum on my face.

Which self-tanning serum do I use?

I use the ones from Lavozon (Rossmann) and SunOzone (Müller). The issue with DHA-based tanners (the kind that gradually develop over time and doesn't rub off on clothes) is than in a badly formulated product the DHA is unstable and gives off formaldehyde. In the ÖkoTest lab tests, the self-tanners from Lavozon and SunOzone were almost the only ones that didn't start giving off formaldehyde over time. Most of the other tested products (organic brands as well as conventional) failed the test. Ökotest did test only the cream self-tanner version though, so I'm hoping and taking the risk that their concentrate formulation is not too different. Another thing I'm doing is storing the concentrate in the fridge, as it is heat that destabilises DHA.

 

The caveat is the packaging of the Lavozon and SunOzone products (I'm pretty sure these brands come from the exact same factory, as they have the same ingredient list and even the packaging is the same). The packaging tells you to use just a few drops, but the consistency and the pump are such that you have to press gently to get drops. The first time I used the product I pressed hard and got a squirt, and I assumed it was the drop they were talking about. Well, that's how I ended overdoing it on the self-tan.

       

Zeta

 Photo credit: VenusianGlow

My Guide For Solid Cosmetic Products

Solid products have moved from the hardcore backpacker/environmentalist niche to being the new hot thing, so I wanted to write a little about my experience with them. 

The big plus point for solid bar products is their lower environmental impact-- low to no packaging, instead of a big plastic bottle, half of which is water that is transported halfway around the globe, you get a little bar in a cardboard box. Solid beauty products are dry and concentrated, this imo justifies the often slightly higher cost-- they usually last longer, volume-wise.

But lets talk about ingredients. Solid products usually don't need preservatives, because they are dry. Other than that, the formulations are often very different than those of conventional products. It's also important to note that a solid product is not automatically natural -- seem of them contain ingredients like SLS so make sure you check the ingredient list or look for products organic certificates.

Solid shower gel

I love these so much. While regular soaps are formulated to get heavier dirt off your hands (from cooking, cleaning, etc), solid bath gels are much gentler and usually have a neutral pH level. Unlike soap, they don't dry your skin and feel pretty much like regular shower gel when you wet them. They feel luxurious and creamy, just like shower gels. I love them so much that I don't think I'll be switching back to regular soap for my body again.

Solid body moisturisers aka lotion bars:

Lotion bars are very moisturising and you should absolutely try them if your skin is dry. They are best used after showering or while actually in the shower. Combined with heat and water they go on easily and seal in the moisture. I like to rub the block in my hands as if I were lathering soap, this makes the bar melt. Then I apply as usual. I feel like the lotion bars seal in the moisture very effectively, and in the winter I feel like they keep me warmer. This might sound weird but someone pointed out that when your lips are cold and you apply balm, they stop feeling cold. So it's kind of like that. The downside is that the application does take a couple of extra minutes, and is not so nice if your skin isn't wet. Anyway, I don't think my skin has ever been so moisturized as it has been this winter.

Solid hair soaps and shampoos

These are actually two very different products. Hair soap is soap, it has a basic pH level and honestly I haven't met any hair-care addict who was happy with it. As it raises the pH level of the hair, you need to  rinse your hair with vinegar to neutralise the pH level. This shifting pf pH levels isn't kind to the hair long-term. Hair soap also performs really badly with hard water.

Solid shampoo is formulated much closer to shampoo. There are a lot of very different formulations out there, so it might take some testing to find one your hair likes. Most of them give the hair more texture than slip, and can leave the hair a bit matte and cause build-up over time. However there are plenty of people who swear by shampoo bars, so if you feel like giving them a try, do! Pick ones without sulfates or sodium bicarbonate. Other ingredients to look out for is protein -- some hair types love it some hat it, I wrote more about that here. In the German-speaking market the

Solid hair conditioners

These are formulated with solid ingredients such as coconut oil, shea butter or stearyl alcohol, which makes them heavy. To solve this, some manufacturers add ingredients such as sulfates to make the bar lather, which is not very kind to the hair. I feel that if your hair is very dry, you can try out hair conditioners in a bar. If your hair is easily weighed down, skip this category.

Solid Deodorant

This is a very individual product -- I find that natural deodorants are so personal, what one person swears by may not work for another person at all. Personally I have had a lot of success with the solid deodorants from Lush.

Solid toothpaste

Fun! There are a couple of kinds out there -- while for travelers the little tablets are the most practical, I personally like powders a lot. There is also tooth soap, and while it tastes disgusting it has helped me with some gum issues. I don't really want to give out much advice here as this is more of a medical product than a beauty product, but I really encourage you to explore low-waste tooth care.

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Zeta

 

Photo credit: VenusianGlow

Can Double Cleansing Work For Dry Skin? + Which Products Not To Use

You've probably heard that over-cleansing dries out the skin. And but what if I told you that cleansing in two steps can work really well for those of you with dry skin? Read on to find out why double cleansing can actually make the skin less dry, and what common product not to use.

How two-step cleansing can benefit dry skin:

* You get a thorough but gentle cleanse by using two super gentle cleansing products that don't strip the skin instead of one harsher one.

* You'll need less active ingredients (that are often drying) in the rest of your skin care, because double cleansing reduces clogged pores, cysts, blackheads and general skin tone.

* Double cleansing removes residue of makeup and sunscreen, which often contains drying ingredients. 

A Throrough Guide To Two-Step Cleansing

One of the best things I have done for my skin is double cleansing. The science behind is that some impurities are better dissolved in oil, and others in water.

Unless you live in place with pollution-free air and use no products on your face whatsoever, I recommend trying it out. If you already have tried double cleansing and weren't excited, I still invite you to read this post and see double-check if you have done it correctly.

Before I get to the how, here are a couple of reasons double cleansing is important:

Your Weekly Deep-Clean For Your Pores -- 4 Steps Clean Out.

Today I'd like to share with you a four-step treatment that I have been doing since some years to keep my pores small and clear.

The pores around my nose and my forehead get clogged with sebaceous filaments aka sebum (which are mainly fat and dead skin cells). While sebaceous filaments are perfectly normal, over time they can widen the pores, giving you that strawberry look. Cleaning out your pores will not shrink them, but it will keep them from getting bigger.

This method has four steps and is best done when you have some time for yourself, as you have to take some time between the steps. I like to do this on weekends or quiet weekday evenings.

What You Need To Cleanse Your Pores

You need:

* An AHA or an enzyme product to exfoliate. If you are doing this in the winter, and committing to using sunscreen you can pick a product with alpha hydroxic acids. I use one I made myself. An enzyme product can be used all year, also on dry and sensitive skin. I like Orientana's papaya and ginseng scrub, or ___________
* A 2% BHA product to dissolve the sebum. I use Vianek's normalising cleansing gel. You can use Stridex strips, the Paula's Choice 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, Logona Aktiv Pickel-Stopp Bio, or diy a BHA toner.

* A clay mask to draw out the gunk from the pores. The Queen Julep mask is very popular for this, I use Kaolin clay.

* Oil to dissolve the remaining sebum. I use either sunflower, jojoba or grapeseed or my own mixes, but you can use any face oil that works for you.

How To Clean Out Your Pores In Four Steps

This is the basic enzyme/aha-bha-clay-oil method that I use. You can modify it to suit your skin. If your skin is dry and sensitive, work only on the areas with clogged pores. And try skipping the AHA.

0. Start with clean, product-free skin. Remove any dead skin cells on the surface with a cotton or microfibre face cloth, a soft brush, a konjac sponge or gauze or a silicone scrubby.

1. Apply the AHA or enzyme product and leave it on for 15-20 minutes. This will act as a mechanical peel and loosen dead skin cells from the surface.

2. Apply the BHA product on the areas with clogged pores. Leave on for 15-20 minutes. The BHA will penetrate the sebum in the pores and loosen it.

3. Apply the clay mask, keep it on for 10-15 minutes. Spritz it with water and don't allow it to dry out. This will draw the gunk out of the pores to the surface. Clean off the clay with a cloth.

4. Apply oil on your face and gently massage with your fingers for 2-5 minutes. At this point some people start feeling "grits", which is sebum and dead skin cells. Wash off the oil. You can do this with a washcloth dipped in warm water, or with micellar water or another cleanser.

Enjoy your clear skin! You can continue with your regular routine now. I like to just use a hydrolate, and light moisturiser if my skin feels dry.

I like to repeat this weekly, 

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Zeta

Photo credit: VenusianGlow

A Quick Way To Get Rid Of Cherry Angiomas (Red Moles) At Home

Hello everyone

Here is a tip I have been sitting on for a long time, no idea why I didn't share it yet! It's my favourite kind: quick, easy and so effective.

Cherry angiomas are small, red mole-like skin growths that often appear on the chest area and sometimes on the face. Often they turn up when you turn 30. They are harmless and usually pretty unnoticeable. I had a couple and they didn't bother me, but when I heard about this way to get rid of them I got curious had to try it out.

Here is how to do it: you get a needle or a pin (pins are better because the plastic head doesn't get hot any you can hold it). You heat up the pin on a candle flame and then lightly touch the cherry angioma with the tip. The cherry angioma just pops! 

This method of removing cherry angiomas doesn't leave scars and the cherry angiomas haven't come back (it's been a few years).

So there you go! If your cherry angiomas are something you're not so fond off, give this a try! If you want to keep them, that's find too. Just one thing -- don't try this on spider veins, regular moles or anything else, it won't work, and you might get a scar.

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Zeta

Why You Should Use Vitamin C, And How To Choose The Right Kind

Today I want to talk about one of the cornerstones of my skin care routine: Vitamin C. A good product with Vitamin C is something that should be on everyone's bathroom shelf. Today I'm going to give you a couple of pointers and product recommendations.

PS Huge shout-out for the lovely person who gave me a generous tip a couple of weeks back! It was much appreciated!

Why use Vitamin C?

Basically it is an extremely effective, well-researched ingredient that is good for all skin types. It's a one-stop for your anti-aging, anti-pollution and skin brightening needs. Here are the benefits in short:

Bakuchiol -- A Gentle Alternative To Retinol Is Scientifically Proven To Really Work!

Every now and then I stumble onto skin care articles that talk about anti-ageing, and there it is -- Retinol. The supposed key to anti-ageing. Retinol does work -- this version of Vitamin A reduces fine lines, spots, and encourages a faster cell turnover. Yet it has some big disadvantages -- the skin is more sensitive to UV rays, it is thinner and more sensitive and loses some of it's barrier function. It can irritate the skin temporarily, and in some cases it can can cause heavy damage to sensitive skin -- retinoid dermatitis. Most organic and natural cosmetic certifications have not approved retinol, nor is it approved for pregnant or nursing women, nor should you use it if you are trying to get pregnant, as it is a know reproductive toxicant.

I personally chose not to use retinol and instead choose other anti-ageing cosmetic ingredients that are less risky. Many ingredients are called "the natural alternative to retinol", however when I searched deeper it turns out that their anti-ageing effects don't come close to those of  retinol.

Except one.

Bakuchiol is a substance extracted from Psoralea corylifolia aka the Babchi plant, which has traditionally been used in Chinese medicine and Ayurveda. Its Sanskrit name Kushtanashini means destroyer of afflictions -- studies have shown it has a lot of medical potential, so it seems to be apt!

What Bakuchiol can do:

This study shows that bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol in diminishing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, but much gentler. It also stimulates the production of collagen, helps against acne (source), makes the skin more elastic and firm (study), and smooths pores.
There are a couple of differences with retinol:  unlike retinol bakuchiol is photo-stable which means that it remains active in bright sunlight and is safe to use during the day. It doesn't decrease the size of oil glands. And it's vegan (retinol sometimes isn't).

Products with Bakuchiol:

Bakuchi can be used in a concentration of up to 1%, and this concentration is also the most effective. So when choosing a product with bakuchiol, do check out how many percent of Bakuchi is actually in the product. Many don't mention this important detail, which probably means that there is a much smaller amount of bakuchiol in it.
A lot of products with bakuchiol are very expensive, I'm talking around 50-150€. I do think it's only because bakuchiol is new and hyped at the moment, and that soon it will trickle down.

That said, I did hunt for a couple of products that won't kill your wallet. The BYBI Beauty Bakuchiol Booster is made of 1% bakuchiol and 99% squalene, it isn't expensive but it seems to sell out days after it's back in stock. I am extremely pleased with the results I have had with it so far, but will write a proper review when I've used it a bit longer.

Some other products that contain bakuchiol and fulfil my criteria of being affordable and not containing ingredients that I wouldn't feel comfortable using (silicones, dubious preservatives, ingredients known to be toxic, etc):

Pacifica's Future Youth Crystal Ball Serum
Erboristica Purysens Pelle Mista e Impura,
Eboristica Purysens Crema Viso Riequilibrante Anti-Eta,
Esito Natural Night Face Cream
Esito Natural Face Serum. 

If you know of any more let me know in the comments! PS I found that going through the hashtag #bakuchiol on instagram is a good way of keeping up with new products that contain bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol DIY? 

There are also Babchi oil and Babchi powder available. These seem both to be very effective against Vitiligo and Psoriasis. However they have to be heavily diluted otherwise they can cause chemical burns. So this is definitely not something you can slather on your face. However EverBlossoms has a recipe for a DIY Babchi serum. This user mixes 10% Babchi oil with 90% squalane. 
I couldn't find out how many % of the active ingredient bakuchiol does oil from the Babchi plant contain. Maybe there is a chemist among you with access to the newest studies, or knows what terms to search for? 
What I did find out is that (unlike pure bakuchiol) the entire Babchi plant does contain substances that make the skin sensitive to sunlight. It should be used in combination with sunscreen, and never during the day or in the middle of the summer.


So have you tried anything with bakuchiol yet? This ingredient is going to have a permanent place in my anti-aging routine, in addition to Vit C. Which other anti-ageing ingredients do you swear on?

Photo credit: Jayesh Pail

Cleansing And Exfoliating With Cotton Gauze -- Review And Tips

So perhaps this is the first time that I'm right on trend with this tip: using gauze in your skin care routine. However my take is going to be slightly different than most of what I've been reading so far. Funnily, I was alerted to this trend right after I was annoyed at my significant other for buying an entire box of gauze. Our family isn't accident prone, so I complained that we aren't going to use that up in the next 50 years if we tried. And now I'm sneakily using the gauze out to clean my face in it.

The biggest advantage of the cotton gauze is it's loose but textured surface -- it absorbs much less product  and removes dead skin flakes. It also doesn't leave behind fibres, something cotton pads have been known to do. It is also good at removing dead skin flakes -- my skin flakes a lot in the winter, even with careful moisturising.

Using cotton gauze to cleanse and remove make-up

Medical gauze is a bit fiddly when it comes to removing make-up, I feel like I would need a big piece to do the job properly. But it does a good job of cleansing, and the little net exfoliates the skin.

Cotton gauze to apply toner

What role does toner play in your routine? If you apply it to restore the skin's pH level and /or to refresh your face, spritz is on. Both cotton pads and gauze absorb the toner, wasting product.

But if you want to remove traces of cleanser, or use it as a gentle morning cleanser, you need to wipe. Here the advantage of gauze for applying toner is that it doesn't soak up as much product as a cotton pad does.

Which gauze?

The best kind is the woven kind and not the flat kind. True woven medical gauze is loosely woven, you can see the actual weave. The other kind is pressed flat to resemble a weave. In Germany I asked for Mullkompresse which is sterile gauze, not soaked in anything.

How to wash cotton gauze

Someone recommended using a salad spinner. Add a few drops of a gentle laundry detergent, best would be something ecological or dr Bronners, add warm water and then spin. I put mine in a pouch and then throw it into the washing machine. Sometimes I wash it by hand after use and spread it out to dry; it dries really fast!

Have you tried using gauze in your skin care routine? Let me know in the comments!

My Tips For Extremely Dry Skin

Come winter and many people complain about chronically chapped lips, cracked heels, splitting skin on the hands or rough elbows. Or legs and arms so dry they itch. I have periodically had all of these complaints myself, luckily now I have it pretty much under control and can catch the first symptoms before it gets worse. And this precisely is the secret of getting very dry skin under control -- starting at the first sign of the problem!

Get a hygrometer

If it shows that the moisture level in your home is less than 50%, consider getting a humidifier or simply place containers of water near your heater. Do actually get a hygrometer, because if your home air isn't dry then adding extra moisture can cause fungus to grow. Hygrometers are around 10€ in gardening supply stores.

Drink and supplement

It's often hard to stay hydrated when it's cold out! Personally I like to drink lukewarm water and herbal teas. Omega-3 is also very important -- I use oils like flaxseed and rapeseed oil, but you can also supplement.

Topical remedies:

Some products for very dry skin that I recommend:

* Lanolin (stinks, but oh so effective!)

* Weleda Skin Food

* Beeswax ointment with propolis from beekepers

* Products with 10% Urea (look under products for the feet)

* Lavera Neutral Intensiv Lotion (free of perfume)

* Shea series from Martina Gebhart

* Homeoplasmine

Generally plant butters do a much better job than oils.

Overnight hand or foot masks:

This is a method used for people with neurodermitis. Apply a thick layer of cream, over that a wet gauze or tubular bandage (don't allow this to dry out) and on top a sock or a glove.

Gloves:

I find that exposure to temperatures below freezing are the quickest was to dry, cracked hands. I have a lovely collection of gloves and mittens, and my tips are: 1. real wool is much warmer than synthetic, 2. TK Maxx is a great place to find it, 3. mittens are warmer than gloves, 4. muff for prams exist, and so do handlebar muffs.

In the home it's really important to wear gloves when cleaning.

Avoid irritants

Switch your soaps and shower products to gentler alternatives (lots of people swear by Aleppo soap). If your legs are dry, try epilating instead of shaving. Take shorter, cooler showers.

If you suffer from really dry skin, let me know in the comments what worked and what didn't work for you.

Photo credit:  A L L E F . V I N I C I U S Δ on Unsplash

What Triggers Hyperpigmentation? Things To Avoid

Sun is not the only thing that causes discolouration, inflammation (wounds, skin problems) can also leave behind discolourations. Some women get discoloured patches after pregnancy. However there are many other things that can cause hyperpigmentation or worsen existing discolourations: problems with the liver or adrenals, vitamin deficiencies, medication.
If your skin tends towards discolourations you need a dual approach: good cosmetic routine to deal with it is essential, but you also need to look into what caused or triggered the problem. Some of the triggers are hard to avoid, sometimes we don't have much choice when it comes to certain medications, birth control or other issues, in this case we should try minimise other potential triggers of hyperpigmentation. And wear lots of sunscreen. And hey, if nothing works out, that's what make-up is for.

What May Trigger Hyperpigmentation:

* UV rays, especially tanning beds which use mostly UVA light. Also the UV gel hardener lamps.

* Incorrect use of sunscreen: sunscreen that isn't full-spectrum, too low SPF factor, isn't applied correctly (a thick enough layer, patted on and not rubbed on), chemical sunscreen that isn't applied 20 minutes before sun exposure and reapplied every two hours. Obviously all of this doesn't trigger melanin production per se, however when we apply sunscreen we tend to spend more time in the sun -- even if the sunscreen doesn't offer enough protection.

* Adrenal stress

* Liver problems 

* Essential oils: bergamot, lemon, lime, orange, mandarin, juniper, jasmine absolute, lavender, red zig, sandalwood oil, ylang ylang oil.


* Antibacterial/antiseptic ingredients (soaps, cleansers, household cleansers): Hexachlorophene, bithionol, 5-bromo-4-chlorsalicyanilide, chlorhexidine, chloro-2phenyphenol, triclocaran. More reasons anti-bacterial stuff is ineffective and bad for health anyway.

* Perfume, also synthetic fragrance in skin care: Peru balsam, benzoyl alcohol, benzoyl salicylate, canga oil, cinnamic alcohol, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, mithoxycitronellal, oak moss, musk, xylol, 6-methyl coumarin, cinnamic aldehyde. Unfortunately these do not have to be disclosed and are often simply declared under inci: parfum.

* Deficiency in vitamin B12 and other B vitamins, vit A, vit PP and folic acid.

* Hormones: this includes birth control as well as pregnancy.

* Improper used of hydroxy acids: A lot of anti-ageing, brightening and anti-acne products contain AHA and BHA, which make the skin more susceptible to UV rays. I've even seen them in sunscreen. Always use products with these ingredients in the winter, apply only in the evening, and use proper sun protection!

* Some herbs: fennel, calendula, St John's Wort, figs, lime, parsley and wild carrots.

* Many medicaments: antibiotics, anti-inflammatory anti-fungal agents, some blood pressure medication and pain killers. One list and  another list, also a good list. If you are on any of these any cannot switch, take extra care with sunscreen!

* Acne medication: Benzoyl peroxide, retinoic acid, unbuffered and very low or high pH glycolic acid, tretinoin, resorcinol.

* Systemic drugs: Tiaprofenic acid, carprofen, promethazine, chloropromazine.

* Sunscreen chemicals: Para-aminobenzoic acid, glyceryl-paminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benophenone, isoamyl-p-N, Ndimethylaminobenzoate, p-methoxy-isoamyl-cinnamate. Or basically: switch to zinc oxide based sunscreen already.

* Other cosmetic ingredients that are photosensitising: hydroquinine (brightening products), retinol (anti-aging).

I hope that this list is helpful. It's definitively not completely exhaustive, it was really surprising how little information there is out there on photosensitising cosmetics ingredients. When in doubt, wear sunscreen!

Photo credit:  Mohammad Metri on Unsplash

How To Get Rid Of Hyperpigmentation, Age Spots, Melasma, Post-Acne Discolouration

So it's the end of the summer, time to assess what the too much sun, chlorinated water and humidity (or lack of it) did to our skin. In my case it's about checking the hyperpigmentation which gets more intense during the summer months. My personal theory is that the years spent in south-east Asia without proper sun protection have damaged my skin, and this damage "rises up to the surface" in the summer months.

I remember my mom, who would sunbathe for years without repercussions, suddenly become thickly covered with brown spots after a single day in the sun. Like a ladybird. They literally popped up over the course of a few hours. S o my theory is that the sun after a certain amount of sun damage it simply becomes visible to the naked eye. Before that you can see it if you shine a UV lamp on it, it's pretty scary.

How to use sunscreen properly:

I can't say how often I have seen people using sunscreen completely wrong. Here are some guidelines:

* Apply enough, pat on a nice layer. Don't rub it in, for all that is holy. Otherwise you're getting just a fraction of the SPF advertised on the bottle.

* At least SPF 30. No, mineral make-up is not enough.

* Use it every day, UVA rays can go through clouds.

* Zinc oxide is the only ingredient that provides full-spectrum protection.

* Don't rub it off. Apply make-up carefully, don't touch your face.

* If you are not using a purely physical sunscreen, you need to reapply every two hours.

* If you are taking medication or birth control that can make the skin photosensitive, you need to be extra vigilant with sun protection. (More about this in the next post!)

* Sunscreen has to be water-resistant if you are sweating even just a little bit. This one is my favourite.

* Be mindful of spots where the sunscreen wears out or is rubbed off during the day. In my case it's where the bottom of my sunglasses frames rests on the cheeks, the part where the hat touches my forehead, and the nose... can anyone tell my why products don't stay on the nose?

 

Cosmetic Ingredients that helps against hyperpigmentation:

Vitamin C: Ascorbic Acid,
Glycyrrhetinic Acid und Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract
Rose / rosehip oil
Niacinamide
Azelaic Acid
Morus Alba (Mulberry) Root Extract and Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf (Bearberry) Extract
Alpha Arbutin
Tumeric
Kombucha
Sandalwood
Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) extract
Glycyrrhetinic Acid and Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract  
Kojic Acid or Kojic Dipalmitate  (can sensitize the skin)
Aloe Vera
AHAs, especially Malic Acid (only in the winter, sunscreen mandatory, except for mandaleic acid)
PHAs 
Glutonactone

I purposely left out hydroquinine, arbutin and a couple of other ingredients that are banned in the EU, because of studies about lack of long-term safety. Also don't use lemon juice, it makes the skin photosensitive!

Some Product Recommendations

 I recommend looking for products for hyperpigmentation as well as those that "brighten" the complexion and then checking whether one of the above substances are near the top of the ingredient list (ingredients are sorted by amount).

You might want to try different things because the ingredients work in several different ways. Some block inhibit tyrosinase (the enzyme needed to make melanin), others help to breakdown melanosomes (melanin pigment granules) in the cells that produce melanin. Others (AHAs, PHAs, Glutonactone) helps remove the damaged top layer, these should be used in the late autumn and winter.

* Right now I am using the Balea Serum Konzentrat gegen Pigmentflecken from DM which has Niacinamide as the second ingredient.
* Koije-San Soap or Wardi Shan soap is surprisingly effective on pigmented areas.
* Vit C -- I've found a lot of great products in my local TKMaxx (TJ Maxx in some countries). The higher the 5 of the vitamin, the better.
* Paula's Choice has the Resist Anti-Aging Brightening Essence well as several products with AHAs and BHAs.

In the next post I'll talk about what causes and triggers hyperpigmentation.

Photo credit:  freestocks.org on Unsplash

Jade Rollers And Gua Sha -- Do They Work And How To Use Them

I've owned and used a jade skin roller and a Gua Sha tool for over two years. Since I have seen posts saying that it's the solution to all beauty problems and posts saying that they don't do anything, I wanted to write about my own experiences with both tools.

So I'll spoil the ending and say: yes, both these tools work, if you use the proper technique. Rolling back and forth isn't going to do much.

The Jade Roller

The jade roller works really well when I have a puffy face, a couple minutes of rolling and I can feel things draining away. For extra effectiveness, store yours in the freezer. If my lymphatic system needs extra help I make sure to add the step of rolling from my temples own the sides of my face, my neck, and towards the collar bones -- this really drains everything.
The wand really helps to relax facial muscles are habitually contracted. In my case it is around the outside eye corners and the forehead -- this causes lines and makes hooded lids even more hooded (you can test this in front of a mirror -- the hood become more prominent when you frown). When I roll these areas I feel the muscles relaxing, and I feel like rolling regularly keeps the muscles from staying contracted.
Finally, the rolling massage stimulates the circulation, which is good for the skin.
The Chinese also claim that regular massage of the face tissues can lightly form the facial shape by shifting fat tissues, and helps to fight facial sagging. I have read quite a lot of comments and blog posts of women who have overdone the Tanaka massage and ended up over-slimming their face, so it is safe to say that the method is very effective.
My jade roller isn't really jade, it is a cheap version from Ebay. I wish I could have picked one from a regular store since the smaller roller isn't perfectly symmetrical, also I kind of would love to own one out of a "noble" material like real jade or rose quartz. However mine did its job relatively well (apart from mildly squeaking) and it cost around 3€. Until my kid broke it.

Here is a nice guide on using the jade roller for a lymphatic massage. I like how she combines it with a s sheet mask. The actual technique starts around 4 mins:

The bottom line is: the jade roller is fun and easy to use, I'd recommend everyone to try one. However if you are serious about your facial massage, I'd suggest going for the Gua Sha.

This one is mine, however they come in all kinds of shapes.

The Gua Sha

The Gua Sha is an advanced tool, you can do much more with it than with the jade rolling wand, however you really need to know what you are doing. The Gua Sha tools have a shape where you can use a bigger surface or a smaller on, hold it flat or at an angle; this makes it extremely versatile for he different parts of the face.
I kind of follow the video below and also do a couple of steps that I learned from the Tanaka facial massage with it. I often do it in the evening while reading.

This video is really good and thorough, unlike many other youtubers she shows how to hold the skin in place so you aren't pulling on it:

How To Use The Jade Roll Or Gua Sha:

Always cleanse your skin first, then use a moisturiser or oil for the slip, and don't forget to wash it properly afterwards.
Don't use the roller or Gua Sha on irritated or broken skin or breakouts.
You need to use smooth, form strokes and roll from the inside of the face towards the outside. On the cheeks and around the mouth you need to roll upwards ten outwards. And in the end you need to roll down the outside edges of the face and down the neck.

So the bottom line is: massaging the skin in this way helps with de-puffing, relaxing the tissues, and improving circulations, however whether you use the jade roller, the Gua Sha or your fingers is a matter of preference. Those of you who are dealing with a poor circulation, a puffy face or tensed up muscles will see pretty quick results.
BTW my Chinese friend uses a porcelain soup spoon or a very smooth (polished) stone for the same, in fact my first introduction to Gua Sha was when she used it on me postpartum.


Let me know in the comments if you use the jade roller or the Gua Sha, or if you prefer your fingers.

How I Deal With Dry Flaking Skin In The Winter

In the winter my skin changes from combination to Sahara. One of the most irritating things about this is that the skin often starts flaking. Sometimes I only realise it's doing this when I apply mineral makeup which really brings those patches of dry skin out.
These dry skin flakes are caused by the often quick changes between being out in the cold and in the warm. Many homes have very dry air (although I'd not be to quick to get a humidifier without getting a hygrometer, because many modern well-isolated homes tend to get too humid and develop mold without without proper airing.) Also I use hydroxy acids in the winter which really help with fine lines and discolourations but dry out the skin.

Another really important question us whether you are drinking enough water. It's easy do get dehydrated in the winter because the cold makes us feel less thirst. I also feel like eating healthy fats helps my skin look better in the winter.

The key to getting rid of dry skin flakes is switching to a more moisturising and less drying routine in the winter. 

How to exfoliate:

To remove the dry skin flakes I usually use a microfibre cloth or a Konjac sponge, because they are thorough but very gentle. You can also use a mechanical exfoliant (scrub) or a chemical one, however you need to be gentle. Don't do exfoliate more than twice a week, otherwise you will be stressing the skin. I feel like enzymatic peel are a great option for the winter, so is the almond gommage.

Speaking about chemical exfoliants, don't overdo these either. These days chemical exfoliants (alpha and bety hydroxy acids)and "in", which means that there are everywhere -- in cleansers, tones, moisturisers... Check your products for these ingredients, as overdoing on hydroxy acids stresses the skin. I prefer to use my hydroxy acids strategically, applying specific acids (mainly on areas with discolouration) and then waiting a couple of days for the skin to rebuild itself.

How to cleanse:

The Oil Cleansing method is great for the skin in the winter. Alternatively you can use a cleansing milk, or a Micellar cleanser free of alcohol. In the winter I always reach for either a microfibre cloth or a Konjac sponge to remove any flakes. 

Put away soaps and harsher cleansers away till the spring.

How to moisturise:

After cleansing I apply Aloe Vera rather than my usual hydrolates.  Finally I switch from light moisturisers to heavier creams with humectants and emolients. Some ingredients you migh look for are: shea butter, lanolin, beeswax, vitamind A and E, aloe vera, hialuron, urea, squalane, plant oils. I like the Martina Gebhart creams as well as Make Me Bio. I'll often use pure oils or butters in the winter, as a layer on top of the cream. My current favourites are rose hip oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil and murumuru butter. For very dry patches I use Weleda Skin Food, or a capsule of vitamins A+E.

Avoid ingredients that are harsh and/or drying: alcohol, sulfates and mineral oil.

How to apply foundation:

If your makeup is making your dry skin flakes more visible, you might want to switch. Usually lighter or more moisturing formulas are better. You can also try mixing your foundation with a moisturiser. Application is key -- pat the product in, don't rub. If like me you prefer mineral makeup, you might want to try applying it with a wet brush, and stippling instead of swirling the product on your face.

These are my tips for dealing with flaking skin in the cold season. How do you deal with skin flakes? Or maybe you are one of the lucky ones who doesn't have this problem?

Photo credit:  Rodolfo Sanches Carvalho on Unsplash

All About The Different Types Of Face Masks

Since masks are big right now, I decided it is high time to write a post about them. I'll loosely define a face mask as a treatment that you apply for a short period of time and then remove. I feel like masks got big because the rest of skin care has been getting really light -- moisturiser is expected to be light enough to go on under sunscreen and makeup, and many people even shy away from heavier night creams. So people whose skin needs much more reach for masks, and they tolerate heavy masks because they are meant to be washed off after twenty minutes.

Let's talk about the different types of masks. These categories are not exhaustive, it's just my way to orient myself among all the available products:

Cleansing masks:

Clays pull out dirt from the skin, and should not be allowed to dry out when on the face. There are many different types of clays out there, like the different Kaolin clays and my personal favourite Rhassoul. An oats mask is also cleansing but even gentler. Charcoal masks are also really popular, however I don't really see the point of using activated charcoal if it's already mixed with other stuff.
Then there are masks which are actually exfoliating products: peel-off masks and masks with exfoliating particles. Both are fine if they are gentle and don't scratch or tug at the skin.
It's important to clean off cleansing masks, I like to use a microfibre towel for that. Otherwise the clay (or whatever) can stay on the skin and make makeup look weird.

Hydroxy Acid Masks:

The ones with salicylic acid (BHA) do wonder for acne, blocked pores, and oily skin. The are often marketed as clarifying and anti-acne.
The effects of a mask with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and polyhdroxid acids (PHAs) depends on which exact hydroxy acid is in the mask (here is a great guide). If the concentration of the acid is low, the effect will more likely be brightening and moisturising, however anything with more than 10% acid will have an exfoliating effect. AHAs make the skin sensitive to the sun and so should always be followed by diligent sun protection, and should not be used in the summer. The only exception is the gentle mandeleic acid, which can be used all year round.

Hydrating masks and "treatment" masks:

The main ingredients here are humidifiers and emollients, they are meant to moisturise the skin and brighten it or counter ageing. Some aren't much more exciting than my regular moisturisers. Ingredients that I look for are algae, Q10, hyaluron and interesting plant extracts. I don't get excited about oils or aloe vera or honey because these I use on my face directly pretty often. If alcohol is among the top ingredients I run.
These masks are pretty similar to heavy moisturising creams. Personally I don't shy away from richer moisturisers so I use such  masks once in a while, when my skin needs and extra pick-me-up. Sometimes I use masks like these as a moisturiser in the winter. 

Sheet Masks

Sheet masks are very different from regular masks, because they are basically a way to keep liquids on the face for a longer time. To me the ingredients of many sheet masks are closer to those of serums -- meaning that they have a lot of active ingredients (that deal with various skin issues, or brighten it, etc), but usually aren't that good with dry skin. They are so popular because they are great for those in a hurry -- you don't need to wash them off.


The thing about masks is that they need a bit of time, so it's usually something you do over the weekend or so. Always start with clean skin. You can stack masks, starting with cleansing ones (apply these on clean skin), then following it up with another. Apply your masks on the neck and decoltee too!
If you are not really familiar with masks I suggest doing one at a time, so that if your skin is unhappy the next day (or very happy) you know which product is responsible. If you use DIY masks, I strongly recommend starting with one-ingredient masks and seeing how your skin reacts. Honey, yoghurt, chickpea flour and oatmeal are a great place to start.
You can also apply hydrating masks on drier parts of your face and cleansing ones on the areas which tend to break out.
The important last s

My favourite masks:

All kinds of clays, pure, which I mix either with just water or yoghurt.
Cattier argile masks
Weleda almond mask
Hauschka Revitalising mask
Martina Gebhart 7 herbs mask
Lavera vitalising mask
Luvos Hydro Maske
Logona purifying mint mask (only on impurities)
Madara brightening AHA peel mask (for the winter)
I've also heard really great things about the masks from Living Nature, but I haven't been able to get my hand on one.


What are your favourite masks? Let me know in the comments.

Photo by Allef Vinicius on Unsplash

Balancing Your Beauty Budget Part I: Spending Categories and Priorities

Beauty should not be a big part of your budget.

This might sound strange coming from a beauty blogger, but it's true. There is just so much more that you can put your money to, like experiences. Or learning. Or charity. 

That said, most of the time we don't actually know how much we are spending on our skin, hair and makeup. Or if we know, the spending is often not in line with our actual needs.

To make a beauty budget that serves you, it helps to have broad guidelines as to how you actually want to spend your money. I don't want to discuss how much exactly is "fine" to spend and what is "too much" since this is a very individual thing. But let's assume that a) you choose to set a limit to the outflow of money that goes towards beauty, and b) you want to spend that outflow in a way that serves you best.

Splurge categories:

The first step I suggest is defining your top priorities, or what I call splurge categories. These are the things you'll be spending most of your money on.

Sun protection

Because prevention is better than cure, and there is no other prevention like sun protection. And good sunscreen doesn't come cheap. Don't skimp here.

Beauty problems and goals

What is the biggest issue of your skin and hair? If you could define one or two beauty goals, what would they be? Be specific, like increasing hair volume or dealing with under-eye circles. Long-term issues like psoriasis also come under this category.

This part of the budget will help you buy a couple (not more) of well-chosen products for your needs. Maybe you need a very specific mascara or concealer. Or a serum that deals with hyperpigmentation. Or maybe you want to put away this part of the budget to save up for eyebrow blading. Whatever it is, it should address the bigger issues.

Joy

Because man does not live by bread alone, you need hyacinths for the soul. For this category pick something that you love. Artisanal soap. Lipsticks. A face mist that doesn't do much but smells heavenly. I believe that consciously choosing a couple of luxuries that really make your heart sing will prevent overspending and impulse buying in other categories.

How much exactly you want to assign to these categories is something to decide for yourself. If you're in doubt I'd say that you can start with assigning half of your beauty budget to the Splurge categories. You can adjust this later on. At this point it would be interesting for you to know how much you roughly spend on your beauty needs each month. Try to note down last month's expenses, and see if they are in line with your general spending values.

What would go into your splurge categories? For me this would be mineral foundation and serums (goals) and highlighters (joy).

Photo credit: Fabian Blank via Unsplash

Face Massage And Exercises To Slow Aging

My whole understanding of wrinkles was turned upside down when in a pub one night an older acquaintance showed me ampoules of what is known as "botox in a jar". Me and my friends tried them out on the lines around the eyes. After a few minutes we felt a tingling and a numbness. The whole eye area suddenly was smoothed out, the lines and valleys all looked as if someone had ironed them. The ingredient responsible for this was Argireline, a muscle relaxant.

This was mind-boggling for me. I had thought that botox worked because it paralysed the muscles which stopped you from continually creasing the skin (kind of like when you don't sit down to prevent linen pants from creasing). I thought that the repeated creasing somehow made the creases permanent. But here I experienced how lines and valley were smoothed out in a matter of a few minutes. I realised that the lines and creases were caused some kind of tightness and tension in the deeper layers.

Now I understand that the skin is a corset that keeps everything in place, rather it is just the thinnest layer on top of many other layers -- fat, muscles and connective tissue. Aging happens to all the layers -- even the skull changes shape as we grow older. Fat layers slide lower as we age. Certain groups of muscles become weak and droop, for example the nasolabial fold gets longer as we age, making the lips look thinner. Certain muscles become permanently contracted, for example the muscles between the eyebrows, which leads to drooping eyelids (you can test this at home). Also the lymphatic system does not work as efficiently as it used to, making the face puffy.

So what does all of this mean, practically? The best way to help your face stay in good shape as you age is working with all of the tissues, and not just the surface. There are a couple of ways to do this, by massaging and exercising the facial muscles. These methods are extremely popular in east Asia and other partis of the world. I remember an Iranian neighbour showing me a simple one when I was a kid.

As long as you are using a face oil or lotion for slip, you will not stretch your skin. It also stimulates the blood flow to the skin, so you might see improvement in colour and tautness.

Here are a couple of methods that I know of, you can find more instructions on the internet:

Tanaka face massage:

The Tanaka face massage is lifting as well as gently draining. It is really great for those who have issues with puffiness and fat in the face. However it is strongly slimming, so should be avoided by those who have issues with a thin or "hollow" face. This massage was invented by a Japanese makeup artist.

Facial Yoga

 Yoga has a deep understanding of not just muscles but the lymphatic system. I really wish regular Yoga classes incorporated a couple of minutes of face yoga. Also notice how she glows -- yoga does that to you.

Facercise

An oldie but a goodie. The biggest strength of Carole Maggio's facercise is that the exercises are very specific -- for example you can shorten your nose, or you can choose between widening or slimming the face. Don't let the 80s vibe put you off, the exercises are really effective.

Face rollers

These are an alternative to massaging by hand. These are really fun and relaxing. I own a jade roller like the on in the video, I got a really cheap one from Ebay and it's nice even though it's not perfectly oval and it's doctored jade. I feel that my fingers are a much more versatile tool than a roller, still I enjoy a the coolness of the roller. Also it's really great for puffy eyes.

Another variation of the roller is the Y-shaped roller which is great for slimming the lower face.

Finally there is the traditional Chinese gua-sha tools, which I'd really love to try out one day. From what I have gathered using them takes practice and an understanding of the the face, and is extremely effective when doe right.

Whereas a simple jade roller can be done by just about anybody.

Other methods:

 Then there are tons of other methods out there. I really would like to encourage you to try ones that look interesting.

When I feel my forehead tensing up, I do these massages to release the glabellar muscles. I already have hooded eyes, so I do my best to prevent any further drooping.

I especially like massaging the sides of the neck, it feels heavenly, probably because I have some lymphatic issues there:

This is a very simple technique for puffy eyes:

I suggest that you pick a video and try the techniques for a week or two. Later on you can mix and match techniques that suit you best. I like to massage my face when watching a movie or in the shower, it's so relaxing. If you are really in a rush, try doing the yoga lion face -- stick your tongue out, widen your eyes, activate each and every muscle of your face and neck, and try to hold for one minute!

Do you massage your face? What is your favourite technique? Do you own any massaging rollers or other tools?