Rye Flour Hair Cleanser DIY

Rye flour "shampoo" is the easiest and gentlest DIY cleanser for the hair that I have tried so far. It has just one ingredient so it's really fast and easy to make. The starch is a mild emulgator and pretty effective in cleansing the hair. Most dry shampoos are based on starch! Rye also contains proteins, vitamin E and several B vitamins, and so it's also a hair mask. It also happens to be pH neutral unlike baking soda which is pretty harsh. It's also highly recommended for anyone with a sensitive scalp.

It is very gentle on the skin and after using it for a while your scalp will produce less oil. It keeps my hair fresh for several days between washings. It also gives me quite a bit of volume and texture. My hair feels very clean and soft. Interestingly most people say that the rye flour wash makes their hair very silky and smooth. In my case (my hair already has a coarser texture mainly because of all the greys and a fresh layer of henna) my hair doesn't look silky, however it is much softer to the touch and detangles easily.

Your mileage way vary, the results will depend on your hair type and on your previous hair care regime.

You need to use rye flour because other flours contain a lot of gluten which is very gluey. If your hair is thicker or curly, use full-grain rye. If your hair is fine, try a lighter (finer grind) rye flour, in Germany that would be type 1150.
Chickpea flour is also gluten free and has been traditionally used to clean the skin and hair in many cultures, but it has a weird smell. Rice flour is also an option, especially if you are histamine intolerant.

Rye shampoo recipe:

You'll need:
Rye flour 4 tablespoons (shoulder-length hair)
250 ml lukewarm water, enough to make it into a runny paste.

Mix really well and let is stand. The longer it stands, the more of the beneficial vitamins get released. However the longer the starch soaks up the water, the less fat and dirt it will absorb. 
In the beginning you might want to let the mixture stand for no more than 10 minutes, which will give you a paste that easily removes dirt and oiliness and product build-up from your hair. Over time you can try letting the mixture stand for several hours or even over night, then it works like a nourishing masque with mild cleansing properties.

The mixture can be stored in a fridge for a day or two, longer than that it turns into sourdough. You can use the rest of the mixture for cleaning the kitchen sink or the dishes, basically it's a great cleanser for anything greasy. Or you can make a bigger batch, freeze the rest in cubes and thaw when needed.

How to use the rye flour hair wash:

Apply on the scalp and massage it in. Apply generously on the hair, but do not rub. Leave it in for 5 minutes, during the time you can use the rest of the paste as a body cleanser. It leaves behind a nicely silky skin.
Rinse out very very thoroughly and turn on your shower head to full strength. Take your time with this step. Don't forget to clean behind the ears!
This mix will not block your bathroom pipes as the flour does not contain gluten and dissolves very quickly. 

Depending on your hair type you may or may not need to use a conditioner after the rye shampoo. I'd recommend going without the first time, so that you can see what effect the rye shampoo has on your hair.

If you have hard water, it makes sense to do an acidic rinse once a month (1/5 liter water + 1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon juice).

If you find that after your hair dries some hulls are still on your hair, shake or comb them out. Next time try a finer kind of rye flour, or sieve the flour before use, and mix a runnier paste. The hulls are noticeable on darker hair. Another option would be to try washing your hair with rye tea -- you mix he rye with more water, let it stand, and then strain it. They you use the liquid to clean the hair.

 In the next post I'll be talking about tweaking the rye flour shampoo to your hair needs.

Have you tried rye flour to cleanse your hair? Or any other no-poo methods?

How Often Should You Cleanse And Scrub?

I think that there is still quite a lot of misinformation about cleansing. Women either don't cleanse regularly, or they completely overdo it -- especially if they have oily skin or breakouts. When you cleanse the skin, what are you actually cleaning off? Dirt from the environment, makeup, sebum and dead skin cells.

However cleansing your face also strips the skin of its protective oils and can disturb its pH level (if the cleanser is not pH neutral). This makes the skin more susceptible to bacteria and other problems. It can also make the skin produce even more oils. Also certain cleansing chemicals (especially sulfates) can irritate the skin. Many scrubs contain grits that are too harsh.

So how often is it ok to cleanse and scrub?

Cleansing your face thoroughly in the evening is something you should never skip. If you wear makeup or sunscreen you need to make sure you clean it off properly, usually in a separate step. I like to use oil to remove sunscreen and makeup, then clean that off with a gel cleanser. Or just do it all in one step with a Micellar cleanser. People usually cleanse their face before going to bed, but sometimes I like to cleanse as soon as I get home in the evening.
    In the morning you usually need to just wash your face with water or wipe it with a toner, unless your skin is especially oily. Our faces don't get dirty while sleeping.

And exfoliating ? Scrubs should not be used more often than twice a week. You can use the very gentle methods of exfoliation like Konjac sponges or Gommage. Facial brushes like Clairsonic have become very popular, but in my opinion lots of women overdo it, not realising that they are exfoliating rather than just cleansing. Use not more often than every other day, use a gentle brush and don't combine it with any other form of exfoliating, whether physical or chemical.
Always be gentle while exfoliating. Your skin is not the bathroom floor.

On the photo above you can see my current collection of cleaners and exfoliators. The only thing missing is my microfiber cloth.

What is your cleansing and exfoliating schedule like?

 

My Favourite Oils For The Skin And Hair

I love oils because they are so versatile -- put them on your face, your hair, your body, into your bathtub, in your salad. I started using them when I got pregnant with my first kid, I wanted something more natural. After many years of trying out many oils, here are my favourites:

* Plum seed oil:

It smells divine, kind of almondy. My face loves it, but usually I end up smoothing a small drop on my hair and on the ends to make it smell good.

* Carrot oil:

It's very orange, so I add a few drops into most of my oil mixes to get a bit of colour onto my skin. Apart from that it's a very nourishing oil. Note -- it's hard to find pure carrot oil, so check the ingredients before buying.

* Jojoba oil

Basic and versatile. Light, gets absorbed by the skin easily, makes any oil mixture instantly less, well, oily.

* Argan oil

Like jojoba, but with much more nourishment. I love what it does to my skin. Argan oil has a very good reason for being pricey -- most of it is produced by women co-operatives in Marocco.
Cosmetic argan oil is unroasted and has almost no smell. The one for eating is roasted and smells nutty.

* Sesame oil

This is a grounding and warming oil, according to Ayurveda. I get cold easily and have dry skin on my body in the winter, so I base my body oil mixes on sesame oil. A foot rub with this oil before bed time calms and grounds me.

* Flax seed oil

 This works best for my air out of all the oils I have tried so far. I also love it in my salads, for the Omega-3. Flax seed oil starts tasting a bit bitter a couple of weeks after the bottle is opened, so using it on my hair and body is a great way to finish it up faster.


When buying oils make sure that you are buying the pure oil and not a mix. Cold-pressed is best, and I try to get organic when I can.

What are your favourite oils?

My Best Cold Weather Skin And Hair Care Tips

via Mitya Ku

Central Europe has very distinct four seasons so every few months I have to reassess my entire skin care routine. My skin and hair react to the cold season by getting dryer and rougher. There is often some summer damage that I have to take care of as well.
Chances are your autumn looks very different from my dry and cold one. It really helps to know what kind of humidity you are working with. You can find the levels of outdoor humidity online; for the humidity levels at home and in your work place it's worth investing in a hygrometer. 50% is "average" and is supposed to be ideal for indoors. Lower than that means the air is dry and you should get a humidifier to counteract that. The skin usually likes higher humidity, but that makes the hair frizzy.

Here is how to keep your skin and hair looking great throughout autumn and winter:

* Include oils rich in Omega-3 in your diet, and drink lots of water. Both will help against dry skin and lips.

* Physical activity is really important during the cold season. In the summer we spend time more time outdoors, walk and bike more. In winter I stay inside too much and I find that this affects my skin, hair and mood. Make a concrete plan -- sign up for classes, get a gym membership or try cold-weather bike gear.

* Drink warm (or at least room temperature) water. Both TCM and Ayurveda strongly recommend this. It tastes a bit weird at first but I got used to it pretty quickly. I drink much more water in the winter if it isn't cold.

 * Go to a sauna. In Germany a lot of people do it pretty regularly in the cold season and even doctors remind me to do it. Apart from all the other health benefits, it gives you the most amazing clean and glowy skin. I always notice when a friend has been to the sauna because of that rosy clean skin! 

* Autumn is a great time to start exfoliating with hydroxy acids to get rid of discolourations and fine lines. While the sun is still strong I'd suggest the gentle mandaleic acid, and a stronger AHA during the winter.

* Skin often gets more irritable when temperatures drop. Avoid irritating ingredients like alcohols and sulfates (especially in cleansers). If you are doing chemical exfoliants, be extra gentle with the rest of your routine.

* My skin flakes during the winter, I have found that konjac sponges and microfibre cloths are the best way to gently remove these flakes.

* The burning UVB rays are very weak in the winter, but you still want to be protecting your skin from UVA rays to slow down ageing, so be sure to pick up a sunscreen with UVA protection.

* I like to refresh my style in the autumn: I always get a haircut in September and I bleach my teeth at home. This time I also got my eyebrows done, for the first time ever.

* Self-tanner keeps my skin looking summery for a while longer.

* I like rediscovering my cold-season make-up -- this is usually berry colours and liner. I feel that the heavy knits, rich colours and scarves and hats let me carry off stronger colours.

* Swap your moisturiser for a richer one. Or add a few drops of oil (I like argan, rose hip, or jojoba oils for the face). At thicker products protects the skin from the cold when you go out.

* Hair gets a lot of mechanical damage in the cold season from all the scarves, zippers, caps and velcro. Natural fabric are kinder to the hair than made-made ones. Wearing your hair up when outdoors really helps minimise damage. If you don't want to do that at least lift it up carefully when putting on your outdoor clothing.

* Get a good, nourishing body butter (I love the ones from Alverde). Or a rich body oil, you can add something warming like sesame or cinnamon oil to a body oil that you already have. In the colder half of the year I swear by the Abhyanga method.

* Give your heels some care. My feet usually look terrible at the end of summer, and I need to soak them, exfoliate with hydroxy acids (more on this soon) and then do some heavy moisturising.

Finally, the most important thing for me is to stay on top of my skin and hair care. To start with richer products ahead of time. Not to wait before my skin and hair are dry and damaged.

How much do you switch up your skin and hair routine for the cold season?

Packing Light With Small Kids

Here is a post that I wrote a while back, but it got buried in all the drafts that I didn't get around to publishing. I though it might be useful for someone, so here you go:

   When we backpacked to Turkey, our kids were 2 and 4. On the way we got into a conversation with some Americans and Aussies, who mentioned that traveling with kids is hard "because you need to carry all that stuff." This perplexed me and my husband a little, because this was all the baggage we had with us:

One of these is a carry-on.

  The personnel at the airport was also quite surprised that we had only one bag to check in. The big pack weighed only 10kg. Half of the smaller one was with food and water for the journey. Apart from this me and my husband had a messenger bag each. The kid stuff took up very little space, the bulkiest stuff was the electronics and the chargers / batteries. And the pretty stones my guy collects.

So what did we pack for the kids?


* Clothes:
    I packed 3 short-sleeved tops, 3 long-sleeved tops, 3 shorts and 3 long trousers for each kid. If we had planned to stay in one place we would have needed less, but being on the road constantly meant fewer laundry opportunities, and changes of climate. Each kid also had a jacket, 4 pairs of socks, 1 pair of sturdy shoes and one tiny towel. The small guy had a bib. The bib is very important if you don't wash a shirt after every meal. BTW I did laundry in the sink most days. I carefully choose the lightest clothes they owned (my fav are those lightweight cargo pants from HM)

* Sleeping bag
      For the small guy, who just cannot stay under the blanket.

* Toys:
     I had one zip-loc bag full of little toys and little books. No, the kids didn't miss their toys: they had plenty of excitement on the trip. I also believe in letting the kids get bored a little bit, so that they aren't distracted from their environment. Also, in case we needed more playthings it would have been easy to buy the most gorgeous handmade stuff for very cheap in every souvenir store. In a pinch I whip out my diary and make origami or draw airplanes for them while we wait for a meal or the bus.
In Turkey whenever the kids didn't want to walk, I'd tell them to look out for the cats. In Istanbul there are cats at literally every corner, so that worked pretty well.

Find the cat

 

* Food:
    I had one lunch-box where I usually had some small fruit, nuts, or leftovers. I tried to always have a couple of bananas or apples as an emergency snack.

*Diapers and Hygiene:
     I was half-way to toilet-training small guy before the trip, sigh. If only I had started a month earlier... anyway we tried to buy the smallest available packs of diapers. We don't use talcum because of the health concerns. In case of nappy rash (which so far never happened) I would have used one of the oils in my cosmetic case, so I didn't bring any cream. The kids shared our soap and shampoo.

* Baby Carrier:
     We are huge fans of the Ergo baby carrier. It is light, rolls up small, is comfortable for the carrying person, and most importantly it keeps the kid in a healthy position (with a curved spine and the legs in a frog position, not hanging down from the crotch with the legs straight down like in the Björn --- which by the way was declared unsuitable for use by a recent Öko Test because this position pushes the leg bone out of the hip socket with every step).

* Other stuff:
     Tooth brushes, passports, health insurance papers and vaccination cards.

    In my days of traveling with a baby I would also pack a burp cloth, a sippy cup or a Sigg bottle with the sport nozzles, two changing pads (the disposable kind, they can be reused) and probably a sling (I had a Diddymos) which also doubles as a nursing screen and a blanket. We didn't use formula, bottles or pacifiers, so we don't own the extra stuff involved.


Obviously we were lucky that none of our kids needs special medical equipment, it's obviously a completely different story if you need to haul necessary stuff like that on every trip.
Still, my experience taught me that small kids are more flexible than we give them credit for, and actually need very little material things. They do need lots of attention though. Also, a little boredom is good for them, as that's the space where the child starts being creative. Sometimes a child needs a small nudge -- asking them questions about the things around them or giving them small tasks can help them give attention to the world around them, and learn to enjoy museums sight-seeing trips and concerts.
And you probably can leave the kitchen sink at home.

Eight Years Of Wearing Well-Fitting Bras -- What Changed?

It's been around eight years since I went from wearing a bra size that was a couple of sizes off to a correctly fitting one. How did those eight years affect the breast tissue? Obviously I have aged eight years, I also had a second child that I nursed for a year. In spite of that, the changes to my breasts have been extremely positive, and I owe it all to wearing well-fitting bras.

Breast tissue vs bras

If it comes down to firmness, perkiness and shape, I'd say that that it only got better over the years. The breast tissue has recovered from badly fitting bras and pregnancies and has gotten firmer; and apart from stretch marks it looks better in my 30s then it did in my 20s.
My breasts also go slightly closer together -- I used to have no cleavage to speak of, there was a flat plateau between the breasts, and I needed very wide underwires because they were very wide apart. Now I have a cleavage and need medium underwires.


There are thousands of boobs out there, these ones are mine.

Psychologically I have also become much more accepting and appreciative of my breasts and the rest of my body. This also has a lot to do with bras and this blog and all the amazing women who wrote to me and sent me their photos. I have seen so many sets of breasts that I developed a whole appreciation for the range of human bodies out there. And all the different ways a body can be beautiful. I'm happy with my size and shape and know which bras and clothes flatter me.


My boob routine
If you want to know what I do exactly -- I wear size 28E at the moment. I sleep in a comfy underwired bra with a slightly stretched-out band. I know that the topic of wearing bras at night in controversial, but I got very positive opinions about this from older readers of this blog. Every 2-3 years I do a week of the milk thistle supplement, when I feel that I lost a bit of fullness. I try to keep the skin moisturised, I use either my face cream or my body cream on my neck, décolleté and breasts. I try to dry-brush at least once a week, and I go over my breasts in light circular motions.


The financial side
I haven't bought many new bras in the past years. I'd say I added 1-2 bras each year as the older ones wore out and got degraded to sleep bras. The brands I pick make long-lasting bras that hold up beautifully if you take care of them. A shout out to Parfait Affinitas, Ewa Michalak, Panache and Masquerade for quality elastics and fabrics, their bras look beautiful even after quite a lot of wear.


Because I often get new readers that stumble onto posts -- you can learn about the basics of bra fitting at the *Bra Matrix* tab on the top left of the page :)

Obviously your mileage may vary, so now we'll talk about you.
How long have you been wearing correctly fitting bras? What changes have you noticed? Do you have any special ways of caring for your breasts and décolleté?