Underwire width is NOT about how far part your breasts are.









    When I talk about narrow or broad underwires, I talk about the distance between the tips of one underwire, not about the distance between the cups in the front. Whether a bra brings the breasts closer together doesn't depend on the width of the underwires.
     The width of the underwires depends on how wide the base of the breast is, not on how close together the breasts are.


   If you have a wide bottom radius, you will have to wear bras with wider underwires. Narrow underwires will cut off a part of your breasts. If you have a narrow bottom radius and you try on a bra with wide underwires, the part of the cup under your armpit will be empty. Here is a detailed explanation of wide and narrow underwires.

   Now, whether a bra brings the breasts closer together doesn't depend on the width of the underwire, but upon the construction of the cup. A narrow center gore helps (you want the underwires to touch each other in the front). But it´s much more than that -- it´s about where the deepest point (the tip of the cone) is located, and whether the sides of the cup are slightly flattened.
   Bras like the Panache Inferno, Freya Retro and Gossard Superboost enhance the cleavage by pushing the breasts closer together. Inferno has wide underwires, Retro has narrow ones while Superboost has medium.




Protein For Hair: Who, What and How.






   Protein is a great ingredient in hair care that is often misunderstood. Not all hair types benefit from protein. Also, protein works best if not used too often. Here are some tips that will help you find out what your hair needs:

Some hair loves protein, some hates it.
   You will probably benefit from protein if your hair is fine and / or porous. Protein works like little building blocks that fill the empty gaps in the hair shaft, leaving the hair smoother. Non-porous hair hates protein, unless it is fine (the hair). Here how you can test whether your hair needs protein or not.

Protein can leave the hair dry and crunchy.
   Unless followed by a moisture treatment. I like to add honey to my protein masque to moisturise.

If your hair hates protein...
   Just avoid it like hell. These are the names protein hides under in ingredient lists. Check your shampoo, conditioner and all styling products.

It´s easy to over-do protein.
   If every product you use contains protein, doing a protein masque on top of that will make things worse instead of better. Used in moderation, protein will fill the gaps in the hair shaft and add body; too much will weigh the hair down. Personally I use a protein treatment twice a month, more often than that makes my hair go crazy.

Protein takes at least 10 mins to work its way into the hair. 
   This means that protein in shampoos won´t get a chance to work. Try protein-rich conditioner, leave-ins, stylers and masques.


    When in doubt, try out a simple protein treatment and see how your hair reacts. You can easily whip one up at home with yoghurt or avocado, or buy a conditioning product that contains protein (I like Kallos Latte).

    Does your hair like protein? Do you prefer home-made protein treatments or do you have a favourite product?

Photo by Gift Habeshaw on Unsplash



All About Sports Bras







Why wear a sports bra ?

    If you are doing a sport where you don´t move much (like Pilates or Joga) you might not need a sport bra, or you could just try the old trick of wearing two bras on top of each other. But if you are jogging, doing aerobics or anything else that makes your breasts bounce around a lot, you definitely need a sports bra. And this is why:


How should a Sports Bra fit ?

   Sports bras have to keep the breasts immobile, so they slightly flatten the breasts. If the size is well-fitted then it´s not a negative unhealthy flattening, for it presses on the breasts equally from all sides. You do get temporary armpit rolls though.


Which size ?

    Calculate your correct bra size here. Buy your sports bra is the same size you would a regular bra, unless the model has an unusually tight / loose band, or big / small cups.


Which bra ?

    Not every "sports bra" is supportive. In this case you usually need to go for a good brand and spend slightly more. But don´t make the mistake in thinking that an expensive sports bra has to be good. Google for reviews !
   Bra support is often graded, from lightly supporting bras for mild exercise to extra support for running and Krav Manga. However, I recommend always going for the highest level of support --- that way you don´t risk bounce and stretched tissue.


Bra straps chafed your arms ?

   You are wearing a bra where the bra band is too loose to support the breasts, and you have made the straps bear up the weight. Another giveway: bouncing boobs.


Other things you want to look for:


   It´s up to you to decide which of these criteria is important. It´s hard to get everything in one bra, so do choose your priorities.

* Underwires: sports bras with underwires usually give better support and shape. If the model is compatible and the size is correct, the underwires will not chafe.
* Breast shape: Many bras squash the breasts together giving you a mono-boob.
* Drying time: If you need the bra to dry by the next day, google reviews that talk about the bra´s drying time.
* Looks: Some of the bras can be worn as a cropped sports top, other look simply like underwear.
* Moisture wicking: This is for those in hot climates and for those that perspire a lot while working out. You´ll need a bra that transports the moisture out, instead of feeling like a wet towel. Again, google for reviews.


      
   Coming up: some specific sports bra recommendations !

 


Hangin´ My Hat








    I finally figured out a cute and practical way to store my hats. In the colder month they are in the cellar, and when the spring they double as decor in the entryway.

Photo by Eternal*Voyageur


    


Makeup for Hooded Eyes



     I´m no makeup expert, but I wanted to share this because it took me so long to find this stuff out. For a long time I didn´t understand why on earth a lot of eye makeup looked terrible on me, especially the smokey eye. I had no idea I had hooded eyes. This is because hooded eyes are explained like this:



These are hooded eyes, but only some are so hooded. At least it looks nothing like mine.


This is a more common hooded eye -- Blake Lively:



   You don´t see any sagging or puffy upper lid (at least not when you´re young). What you do see is that the moveable eyelid is almost hidden (compare hers to his).

   From this weird angle you see how the upper eyelid obscures the lower eyelid:





The basics rules for makeup for  hooded ayes are:

* Light colour on the moveable lid. A dark colour or thick eyeliner will make it disappear completely.
* Dark colours should be avoided, since they can make the eye look really deep-set (unless you know what you are doing).
* A medium colour a little above the crease (on the "hood" part of the upper eyelid). No shimmer here, please !
* Tons of mascara, and fake lashes for big events.




Tutorials and explanations:

* This lady has a very different approach to her hooded eyes -- using a lot of dark eye liner and shadow to create an elongated exotic cat eye.


Celebs with hooded eyes:
   You can learn a lot by observing their eye makeup. Also, these stars are living proof of the fact that hooded eyes are beautiful, and not a flaw to bie fixed:
 
 

Faye Dunway (pre-surgery)



Paris Hilton


Catherine Zeta-Jones


 
Anne Hathaway




Weekend reads 20-03-2011







* Style: Faith’s 11 Coveted Style Tips

* Read & Watch:  Persopolis is on of the best things I´ve read and seen lately. Plus, a breast-care tip at the end !

* Green: Vinod Khosla is a radical and unapologetic about his ideas to change the world and his harsh criticism of environmentalists.

* Fashion: How to avoid shopping pitfalls

* Relationships: Sunk Costs and a Better Marriage

* Life: How to Focus

* Think: Do we really need nuclear power ?

* Radiation: xkcd made this chart





DIY Protein Hair Treatment (vegan)








    When my hair gets dull and difficult, I always try two things: clarifying with Cider Vinegar, and a protein treatment. Protein makes my hair noticeably hair softer and shinier, and helps with more volume too.
      The thing about protein is that not everybody´s hair likes it. It´s also easy to overdose on it, since a lot of shampoos, conditioners and serums contain it (here is how you can find that out). If you´re not sure whether you need protein, try this test. Or just try this treatment

   Here is a simple moisture treatment I do at home once a month.

Home made Protein Conditioner

You will need:

  • Half a ripe avocado (keep hard avocados wrapped in paper in a cupboard to ripen)
  • 1 Tbs organic Cider Apple Vinegar or Lemon juice (for pH balance) 
  • 1 Tbs of honey (for moisture, prevents crunchyness) or aloe vera gel (pure)
  • Water or organic yoghurt (for the non-vegans)

How to prepare:

   Mix the ingredients together. How much water / yoghurt you use depends upon the length of your hair. You want the mixture to be runnier than a typical conditioner, but not too runny.  Blend it all in a blender. If you don't have one, squeeze the avocado through a sieve. The avocado needs to be a smooth paste, not a pulp with chunks (that's hard to wash out !).

How to use:

   Apply on hair, and leave on for 10-15 minutes. Cover with a shower cap, or wrap with cling film (protein treatments do not need heat, but avocado can be messy !)
Rinse out well, and shampoo as usual.



     Adding honey to this treatment means you don´t have to follow-up with a moisture treatment. The honey is very moisturising and counteracts the protein crunch.


     I have re-written this post, to explain the improved version of this treatment.

Photo by birdtoes  




Where to buy big bands with small cups








  I explained here why the bra calculator fails at the end of the size table and how to find out what size you should be wearing. Please please read that post first ! Often women who calculate their size as a 50 band end up being comfortable in a 42 or 44. That said, for those that need 46+ bands and cups like C and lower, here is what I found:


    While researching for stores that carry such sizes, I was really disappointed. Bravissimo has no big bands. Figleaves offers B cups in band sizes up to 50. But already at 46 the choices are very small. There are almost no pretty soft underwired bras. Almost all of the bras are "comfort models" which seems to be a codeword for highly elastic, unsupportive, and ugly things. Such bras are too unstructured to give support or a good shape. There are also some prosthesis and maternity bras. The same was repeated in almost every bra store.

   However, not all hope is lost. I found that plus-size clothing stores often carried bras in sizes like 44B and 50B:


Woman Within surprised me with some non-beige and non-"comfort" bras in the size of 50B. The bras are also inexpensive, ranging from $20 to $50. Look promising !

Herroom actually had some prettier bras, like this one, in 48B. In bigger bands the choice is almost non-existent.

SimplyBe (UK) Has just a few, but surprisingly pretty (and underwired ! and inexpensive) bras in 50B.

Evans (UK) Again, finally some pretty bras in 50B ! Starting at £14.00 !

Valont produces bras up to band 48, with cups as low as B. They even make some colourful underwired models. Their homepage looks like a 13-year-old made it, so may I suggest Yahoo Shopping or Google Shopping ?

Dessus-xxl is a German retailer with quite a big choice

Barenecessities theoretically bands up to 56, with A cups. However only below band 50 there are actually several bras to choose from, and that too mostly in B cups rather than A. Barenecessities tends to have simple bras in basic colours, if you are looking for something glamorous you are in the wrong place. Still, in spite of all the lacks, kudos to Barenecessities for at least acknowledging that sizes like 56A exist.

LaurenSilva Acknowledge the existence of up to 56AA. In sizes like 48B you get a choice that´s not too shabby. The bras appear to be cheaper as compared to other sites.

Biggerbras has band 56 in B, and Band 50 in A. I was not exactly blown away by the choices they offered.

 JCPenny has a couple of bras with band sizes up to 50, available in cups as small as B.

Ewa Michalak has a good range of sizes, and will custom-make your size if you need it. The bras are high quality and inexpensive (from 17€). I wrote about that brand here.

Lane Bryant Doesn´t do really big band with A & B cups, but if you are looking for C cups in bands up to 46, you will find several cute, fun bras.

Leading Lady Band size up to 50, cups start at A. The model selection is not overwhelming, but the bras are non-expensive and non-ugly.

What you can do:


  Let your voice be heard. Write to companies and stores, telling them you´d like a bigger choice in your size. Tell them what you´d like (colour, basics, underwires, lace, whatever). If a brand makes a bra you covet in, say, 44B and not 46B, suggest to them they expand their size range to fit you. Remember, there are real people in those companies, and a number of such mails will make them take notice.


Mr. Bra Got It Wrong -- Measuring Above The Breasts, and 1" Equals 1 Cup Size





     First of all: the band goes under the breasts, so why is he measuring her above the breasts ? This doesn´t make any sense.

I try his measuring system out on me:

     I am 27" under the bust, and I wear band size 28. Measuring above the breasts would give me 30", and that would mean I would have to go up a band size if I took these measurements seriously ! 28 bands give me support without being too tights. 30 bands would be ok only when they are brand new, after the first wash I could probably wear them around my hips. I do wear 30 bands only from brands like Discover Mademoiselle and Ewa Michalak which make them really tight.

    Now to the second part. Lets say I accepted the band size 30 for a moment. My breast measurement is 33". According to him, 3" = 3 cups. So he would fit me in a 30C. I wear a 28DD. If I wear a band 30, I need to cup D, because when you go up a band size you need to go down a cup size (so says the band-cup relativity law). 28DD translates to 30D, not just in theory but in practice: a 30C would be too small in the cups for me.

    His measuring system wouldn´t work even if I subtracted my bust measurement from my underbust measurement (instead of overbust). 33" bust - 27" underbust = 6". That would make me a US DDD cup. That´s one size bigger than my correct size.


Where did he go wrong ?

   In the UK measuring system, 1" difference between underbust and breast size does stand for one cup size. With one exception: the A cup is a 2,5" inch difference !
So it goes like this -- 2,5"=A, 3,5"=B, 3,5" = C.
If the difference is less then 2,5", you get AA cup (1,5") and AAA (1" or less -- I think)


So what´s the right was to calculate the bra size ?


   The band size should be the number closest to your underbust measurement (In my case 27" translates to UK/US band 28). If you are using EUR band sizing, then take away 5 cm from your underbust measurement, and go down to the nearest band size (In my case 69cm -5 = 64cm, then I drop down to the next band size 60).
    For the cup size, subtract bust measurement from underbust measurement. Allot 2,5" for cup A, and then every extra inch is a cup size. (In my case: 33" - 27" gives 6". So I take cup DD even though I lack half an inch, but it´s always better to take a slightly bigger cup than one too small, especially because of breast tissue migration). Of course, this size in only theoretical -- depending on your breast shape and how firm - non-firm it is, you might need to go up or down a cup size.


Or just screw all that and just use the calculator:
Click here for the bra size calculator



Congrats, you just broke out of the Bra Matrix !





THIS is how tights differ from leggings, and when to wear which



    So tights are thinner and have feet, and leggings are thicker and don´t. But when should you wear tights and when leggings ?  And what about footless tights ?

    Tights are thinner and hug the curves, looking like the colour or pattern is spray-painted on the leg. Leggings, however, are made of a more heavy-weight fabric whose draping and seams are visibleLeggings are almost-pants, tights are almost-nude-legs.


    Here is Gossip Girl star Jessica Szohr in tights. Note the perfectly clean and smooth line. No seams or wrinkles visible:





Here is Jessica in leggings. The fabric drapes and bunches. From the sides the seams would be visible.



      Tights add colour and pattern to the leg, leggings add coverage and structure.
     A lot of leggings are thicker and more opaque that the one Jessica is wearing. These makes them more forgiving, they skim the curves rather than hug them. Then there are the even thicker almost jean-like jeggings or leans. There is also latex leggings, on which I deign to comment ;-)
     A lot of tights are much more sheer than the one Jessica is wearing. The sheerest type of tights are called pantyhose, and they hide the imperfections of the leg while pretending to be invisible.


     So now you get what´s the difference between the two. So which to wear, and when ?


TIGHTS: 
    Think of them as almost-bare legs.

    Tights are worn best with shorts, skirts, and dresses. Tights are sheer in the crotch area, and your underwear will show up even through the thicker ones. Besides, they have really weird seams at the crotch. This means that they should never be worn with anything shorter than a palms width above the knee, otherwise you risk flashing everyone when you bend over. 
   Generally, tights look more feminine and elegant than leggings. (Ok, except fishnets). They look more modest than a nude leg. Tights go well with delicate heels and they present a long, unbroken leg line.



      They often come in intricate patterns. Even the bold and big patterns will look more elegant and feminine on tights than on leggings. Patterns, especially non-geometric ones, are more flattering since they distract the eye from the shape of the leg. (Proof: the purple leggings in the pic above)




Lady-like tights can also be worn with tougher outfits, as a contrast:


    Semi opaque tights are more flattering than opaque. Since leggings don´t come in sheer, tights win when it comes to leg lengthening.

   For those of sweaty feet, sockettes (footlets) help. My guy firmly believes in the theory that wearing two layers on the feet keeps them from smelling -- the sweat stays in the inner layer and doesn´t touch the shoe lining. Then there are footless tights: they stay fresher longer, but leave the foot bare (sandals), with footlets (ballet flats) or covered with socks (under boots).



LEGGINGS : 
       Think of them as halfway between tights and pants.

     Leggings can be worn under tunics and short dresses. They are pretty opaque at the crotch, so unlike tights they won´t cause mass destruction if you decide to do an impromptu demonstrate Karate kicks demo for your friends.




     Leggings add a more trendy and casual vibe to the outfit. Leggings are footless, worn best with ballet flats (with footlets aka sockettes, sometimes called shoe liners) or with boots and booties (with socks). The fact that leggings are footless gives them the advantage of staying fresh longer --- you can launder just the socks or the footlets. The socks should not be visible, unless you are doing the top of socks peeking over top of boot thing (cute !).




   Because tights are made of a heavier material and don´t ladder, they can be shredded, studded, embellished and everything in between. They tend to look bolder and tougher than most patterned and embellished tights. Leggings are often inspired by the ´80s, tights by ladylike times long gone by.





    Leggings are usually sturdier than tights, they don´t snag and can be thrown into the washing machine with the regular stuff. In hotter climates cotton leggings are more comfortable than tights (which ale almost always synthetic).  

    Just make sure that your tunic covers your butt, because leggings are NOT pants:



* * *

    There exist some bridging pieces: tights that are almost leggings, and leggings that are almost tights. Footless tights labelled as leggings.

   Generally, the more leg is on display, the more difference does it make whether you are wearing tights or leggings. When you´re wearing high boot with a skirt, it doesn´t matter much if the couple of inches visible is covered with tights or leggings.

   And a great tip: Always go up a size in leggings and tights ! This way the fabric will not be stretched to its limits. The crotch area will be more comfortable, and the item will probably last longer. And the pattern will not get distorted.

    As you can probably tell from the pictures, I have been watching too much Gossip Girl. When searching for images I also discovered that half of the internet can´t really tell tights from leggings.



    What do you prefer ? Leggings or tights ? I have been a leggings girl, but right now I love the feminity of tights. Anyone else like Gossip Girl ?

Photos linked to sources

    


Weekend reads 12-03-2011






* The "New Facebook" wall is automatically set to show ONLY posts from people who you've recently interacted with or interacted the most with. Here is how to change that setting. (and I had been wondering why I kept on getting updates from only a small bunch of friends... )

Top 10 Ways Your Brain Is Sabotaging You (and How to Beat It) Amaaaazing article.

* For large-chested girls: Thin and Curvy writes about Biubiu, and looks smashtastic in it.

* Home: Best Cleaning Tips. Efficiency for the busy or the lazy.

* Life:  Picking Your Luxuries: A Guide To Living Lavishly With Less

* Blogging: Resolutions for a Better Blog

* Style: Pull Your Socks Up is growing old disgracefully. Whether you love her style or not, it´s so refreshing to see someone who wear what she wants, not what the society expects her to.

* Fitness: Tips For Home Workouts


I´m addicted to Spousonomics. The blog is here.


    


Reasons I Love Thee, Gossip Girl





    I have been on a weeks long Gossip-Girl marathon, till I ran out of already-released episodes. I started having withdrawal symptoms from just having to wait a week for the next episode, but it turns out I´ll have to wait 6 weeks...  No, wait, please don´t do that to me !!

    Weeks of staying at home with a torn ligament and I was so bored that I started looking for my next guilty-pleasure series. I wanted something light and fashion-y, like Sex and the City (which I loved-hated --- loved Carrie, her clothes and the friendship the four share; hated the job-interview approach to dating and finding love, and Mr Big (am I the only one he reminds of Mr Bean ? ) ). I tried watching Desperate Housewives (seriously, one whole season of DS has as much plot content as one episode of GG), but I almost died of boredom. Then Mad Men, but the sexism irritated the heck out of me.  When some forum suggested Gossip Girl, I was afraid that it would be a typical teen drama with little high-school problems, as cutesy as Blair´s bows. But Blair´s bows turned out to be camouflage -- she is more spunky, edgy and mean than her outfits betray, and so is the show.
    Gossip Girl is edgy, fast-paced and addictive, with enough glitz and glamour to keep me happy. These teens are very privileged and independent, and the storyline is often more "grown-up" than SATC. The characters are more complex, the story has much more twists. Then there are more sparks, passion and head-over-heels love. Although there is no nudity or explicit talk in à la SATC, it´s actually hotter and naughtier. There is also plenty of humour and self-parody, and the actors clearly have fun.                                                                                                                                                                  





Chuck and Blair are hands down the best (and most addicting) part of the show. You hate them as much as you love them -- they are heartbreakingly romantic, and they are some of the most flawed, destructive and selfish people ever. They are a bit of 'Dangerous Liaisons', of 'Wuthering Heights' and 'Bonny and Clyde'. I relish watching them plot one another´s destruction almost as much as I delight in their moments together -- whether the devastatingly passionate and romantic ones; or the ones where they plot the destruction of the world.  I can´t remember the last time I´ve sooo wanted two TV characters to come together. The chemistry the actors have is amazing, you can see the sparks flying even when they´re just saying a casual "goodnight".






The razor-sharp wit. Especially Chuck & Blair´s duels.






The vintage touches. Masquerade balls. Blair´s wardrobe. Pearls and corsets. All the touches of nostalgia generously sprinkled in this trendy, fast-paced New York lives. I especially loved Blair´s old movie dreams and the gangster-film like assassin game.





The fashion ! There is eye candy for everyone. Serena that just throws something on, messes up her hair and looks fabulous. Blair who is always styled, coiffed and accessorised to perfection. 14-year-old Jenny whose style morphs from mini-Blair to gothic glam. Lilly who is elegance personified, with amazing chignons and jewelry that make you wish you were 55. The men are not far behind, especially Chuck. Granted, everything is couture and very expensive, and I do miss the crazy styling of Patricia Feld, but anyway this show is a delight for everyone that loves clothes.

I´m the it girl does a fashion break down of every episode (warning: spoilers !)
You know you love fashion does very very detailed breakdowns.





Dorota. Especially Undercover Agent Dorota. It´s also funny since I understand her occasional outbursts in Polish.




The music.
    Instead of a background score, GG uses bits of songs ranging from well-known hits to new artists. I discovered some great songs such as Embers, and squealed as I heard great favourites like Crystalized during a great scene.


    That said, the show does have it´s weaknesses. The plot is often contrived, and I´m seriously wondering whether at the end of season four there will be any characters left that hasn´t hooked up (or tried to) with all of the characters of the opposite sex. Season 3 was boooring (except for the little Chuck-Blair moments). And Serena is getting more and more annoying in every new season, which is a pity since I loved her in season one.
    Still, I remain addicted, and can´t wait for the series to resume.


    What´s your favourite TV series ? Do you like Gossip Girl ? Any other recommendations for me ?




What´s On My Bathroom Shelf




lips



  I´m revealing the all-natural and partially DIY contents of my bathroom shelf. I´m not really good at being regular with my routine (and this from a beauty blogger...) so I don´t actually use all of this every day. 




* Self-made shampoo: recipe and ingredients via Hobbythek. This shampoo is very gentle, and has turned my hair from oily to normal. Currently I am not using it a lot, because I'm trying out conditioner-only washing.

* Alverde Rose-Hibiscus Conditioner: this is what I use when conditioner-only washing. It's not ideal, but I like it a lot.

* Flax gel: that´s my leave-in and mousse. Oh, and it´s technically in the fridge. I apply it after washing my hair for volume and conditioning, or I scrunch it though dry hair for instant volume and beach waves.



* Face cleansing oil: my personal blend is about 20% castor oil, with Jojoba, and a few drops of lavender and rose essential oils. I´ve put the recipe *here*. I use this as a makeup remover (with a cotton pad) as well as a regular cleanser (light massage with fingers).

* Body oil: 50% wheat germ, 25% jojoba and 25% almond, and the contents of a capsule of vitamin E. Oh, and whatever essential oil I´m loving at the moment (right now it's rose).

* Used coffee grounds: my body scrub. I don´t use it on my legs as I have spider veins, but it´s amazing on the thigh and bum !

* Alterra self-tanner: I use this in the evening when I want a little colour the next day. It´s never given me streaks, and the colour is very subtle. It´s meant for the face, but I use it on my body too.

* Jojoba oil: this is for the ends of my hair, or as a light moisturiser. Jojoba oil is very light and non oily, it gives a slight glow.

* Essential oils. Me any my guy share a whole collection of these. I add them to almost all of my DIY cosmetics. Some of them I use directly on my face or hair ends (lavender & rose are gentle enough for that).


    It´s sometimes funny when a friend comes over and asks for a hand cream, and gets handed a jar of oils. In other news, we actually have sun today ! Does this mean spring will be coming soon ? I hope so, but then I get all nostalgic and wish for one last snow fall...

    


Check these out: