Spanish Reader Question: Ewa Michalak Sizing, Band Altering + Bras For The Tight Budget

Hi!

My name is Carmen, and I recently found out I haven't been wearing the right bra size. I measured myself correctly, and ended up with a UK 32G size. I live in Spain. I wanted to try any Ewa Michalak bras, and that's what the question is about.

What size should I get, 70H or 70HH? I'm kinda scared of getting the wrong size and having to return it, since I barely have any money. I also don't want to risk buying on ebay, since I've had really bad experiences buying there before.

Would you recommend any brand in particular that's good but not expensive?

And would you recommend any tutorials for altering bands (making them smaller, from a size 36 and 38 to a 32)? I have a few bras that size with big cups, that I got at a sale, and thought I could use them if I can alter them.

For now, I am wearing a 34F bra, since it's the only one I could find close to my size that I could afford, and when I'm at home I don't wear one, so that bra can rest, and that way I don't have to use any of my old ill-fitting bras or bralettes.

Hello Carmen

When it comes to cup size, I always say that when in doubt get the bigger cups and the smaller band. First, chances are that when you wear the right size then all the migrated tissue will get back to the breasts and you will go up a cu size. Secondly, while a slightly too big cup only looks a bit off, one that is too small will cause breast tissue migration (armpit rolls and the like).

If you want to see how a specific Ewa Michalak bra fits, I suggest going to Bratabase, where users post exact measurements, photos and reviews on bra models in their size.

Figleaves' own bra brand of the same name is very affordable, and the entire site often has great discounts. If you keep a lookout on promotions (end-of-season sales, discounts for holidays like Valentines Day or Black Friday, you can save quite a lot of money.

If you have  TJMaxx or another outlet store in your area, I suggest taking a look there. The one in my city sells bras from the UK and I've seen really nice bras in "unusual" sizes for 5-10€. Also look for bra-fitting forums or facebook groups -- the members often sell or swap bras. I also highly recommend RandomActsOfBras to anyone struggling to afford a bra.

It is not so difficult to alter a bra band. Here are two tutorials of mine. Both work without cutting the band which would lead to the shape of the underwire changing:

The simple tutorial

The elastic tutorial

That´s all from me, over to you -- do you have tips for Carmen? Anyone from Spain out there?

Photo credit:

Photo by Pablo Heimplatz on Unsplash

My Lingerie Picks For This Autumn

One of my favourite things about the beginning of autumn is swapping out my wardrobe --light cottons and breezy linens  are packed away with little pieces of cedar wood tucked between them, and out come woolly knits and heavy draping layers. What I love most about dressing in the falls are the little details: socks peeking above boots, pompoms on caps and colourful bootlaces. And pretty (and well-fitting) lingerie below all those warm layers. That makes me feel well chic and elegant, even if I'm the only one who sees it all day.

One thing I usually do in the autumn is to go through my lingerie drawer, delegating worn-out bras to sleeping bras and welcoming a new bra or two to my little collection. Below is an overview of the bras from the HauteFlair online store that have caught my eye and that I'd love to see in my lingerie drawer this season. All of these bras come in a decent range of sizes, and I have tried to give an insight into the fit. And pssst, on the weekend it's time for you -- stay tuned for a special giveaway!

 

Tshirt bras that are just lined and not padded or moulded are really hard to find. The minimalistically designed Nouvelle Fullcup Addiction Lingerie is a great combo of stretchy and supportive. Don't let the name fool you, this bra is quite low-cut! The boning on the wings and the long underwires (under the armpits) keep migrated tissue contained. The mesh give a visual lightness to the cup, especially in the bigger sizes. This model also comes in beige as well as classic black.

If you prefer lace and botanical motives with a touch of old-world glamour, Sophia by Le Mystère will catch your eye. I've got a weakness for colourful lace, and I'd am drooling over the matching panties and the lace garter belt. I personally think that cornflower blue version is the prettiest, but the Sophia also comes in red and lack. The lace lies flat and is not very visible under clothes, the inside of the cups is lined with memory foam which makes them very soft. The band is a bit on the tighter side, so you might want to size up. 

If you are plus-size, the Panache Sculpresse Chi Chi is among the (still too few) bra models that have bands in bigger sizes as well -- to size 46 to be exact. The strong point of the Sculptresse Chi Chi is the construction -- the bra is very supportive and gives the breast a lot of lift and forward projection (thanks to the strong side panels which also contain any migrated breast tissue). The lace is stretchy and will not dig in into the breast tissue.

I recommend the Panache Sport to everybody, I already own two and am looking to add a third one to my collection so that I can go longer between laundry days. It's super comfortable, and supports the breasts by encapsulating them instead of flattening them. The breasts also supported from above (the top edges of the cups), which prevents them from bouncing up. The bra dries quickly and mine looks almost brand new after a lot of use. I have worn the Panache Sport for everything from running to Yoga to dance, and have always found this bra model to be extremely comfortable and supported. It's also both pretty enough and provides enough coverage to be worn on it's own. 

If you're not a fan of underwires (which are super-comfy), there is also an unwired model.

I already own the Charlotte from Parfait Affinitas in peach, but I'd love to get my paws on another of the colours it comes in. Either the red, or the floral pattern. This bra is a huge favourite of mine: it looks and feels really luxurious, like something that costs at least twice as much. The Charlotte is also sturdy and very supportive. The side-sling pulls the breasts front and center. An important thing is that the fit of the Charlotte has been changed, the underwires are shorter below the armpit and the cups are a tad smaller than before, so you might want to pop over to Bratabase to check out the fit comparision.

Above is the padded (halfcup) version of the Charlotte, there is also the balconette version that I have already reviewed. The cups of the padded are lined but not padded (in spite of what the name might suggest) version.

I feel that the black piping and the vertical lines on the cup add visual lift and make for a very flattering optical illusion.

Over to you: which bras are you lusting for this autumn? An don't forget to stay tuned for the HauteFlair giveaway this weekend!

Disclaimer: This post has been brought to you HauteFlair

Why Are Bra Closures At The Back And Not At The Front?

Montelle Pure Plus Smooth Front Closure Bra, 30-40, D-G

One reader sent me the following question:

"Why do bras do up at the back? Why can't they do up in front, with a lace up at the back so that we can tighten up when we need it. Or maybe the lacing on the side vents. Front clasps would be so much more comfortable and maybe sexy?:)"

   From what I've heard there are plenty of people who would like to see bras that close at the front, especially women who don't have the full range of movement in their shoulders and arms, as well as anyone who has to spend a lot of time lying down in bed due to medical reasons.

   The reason closures are usually in the front is because it's simpler to sew. There isn't enough space in the front for a 3x3 hook closure; so most bras that close in the front have just a simple hook and eye, and the whole construction looks rather unstable and incapable of supporting bigger breast sizes. Also, such closures completely lack any kind of way to make the band tighter, and this really decreases the life-span of a bra.
   While the simple hook closure fits between the breast of women who have wide-spaced breasts, it feels uncomfortable for women with closely-spaced breasts. Sternums are often sensitive especially if there is not much padding in the area, and many women would not find a closure there uncomfortable.

   That said, front closures have one more advantages apart from ease of use --- they can bring the breasts closer together and give amazing cleavage. Plus, the backs are very smooth and pretty. Another things that pops to my mind is that front-closures would suprise most guys, who would desperately  go "how on earth does this open, where is the closure, help!"

   A couple of brands that do wired front-closure bras are Wacoal, Eva Bien, Montelle, La Perla, Spanx, Calvin Klein, however these brands usually don't offer the full range of sizes. I was pretty excited when I realised that Parfait Affinitas carries the Nicole bra in the Racerback Contour style which has a front-closure, but it comes in a very small range of sizes.

  I'm guessing there isn't much voiced demand for front-closure bras. So if you think that you (or a female relative) might be really happy with a pretty, supportive bra with a front-closure, why don't you try writing in to your favourite bra brand? There are lingerie brands out there that have taken the suggestions of customers and bloggers to heart. Here is a list of bra brands that listen.

  And a last note: you don't have to close back-closure on the back; you can put on your bra back-to-front, close the hooks and then turn it cup-to-front. Yes, I realise that this is still too much gymnastics for someone with, say, elbow issues, but it's still slightly easier.

   What's your opinion on front-closure bras? Do you have any brands and styles to recommend?

Sexy Bras In Bigger Cup Sizes! Reader Request: Valentines Day In G+ Bras

Curvy Kate Carmen Rose

Arielle wrote in with this request:

   I've been following your blog for a few years now, and you've well-beyond converted me to finding bras that actually fit (32G/30GG after years of being a 36 DD). You have so much information about bras for everyday, which is great, but with Valentine's Day coming soon, I've recently been searching for fancy/sexy/Victoria-Secret-esq lingerie that will actually fit my boobs. I confess I did stop in VS the other day to try on a few pieces that were in my "old size" and my boobs just looked so saggy and unsexy... I've been looking online a bit but pickings are small...do you have any advice on places to look? I'm based in the US, but I have a feeling Europe is more size-friendly?

  So, sexy lingerie in a GG cup? A new bigger-cupped brands are cropping up and existing brands expand their size range, finding beautiful lingerie in G+ sizes is not mission impossible anymore. Sexy can mean different things to different women -- it can be sheer black lace or cheetah print, lace and ruffles or red satin. For one person a sexy bra means sheer low-cut cups, for another it is a push-up that creates a killer cleavage, for yet another it would be a romantic retro longline. But one thing for sure -- there is nothing as sexy as a well-fitted bra in the right size which will give you lift and shape that will make you look great and feel confident.

   A good place to start for US-based women would be BareNecessities which carries a huge selection of brands in the full size range. Just be aware that prices may vary a lot in different online stores, so shop around if you are on a budget.
   Here are a couple of suggestions, do chime in with your recommendations in the comments!

The US brand Parfait Affinitas have a couple of sexy bras in a G cup, the Charlotte and Kitty models spring to mind. The aesthetics are understated and elegant.

Another US-based brand Change offer some sexy styles, including the Intimate Britney Spears Anemone (another review here) which is a sexy cage bra that comes in a bigger cup.

Most of big-cup-friendly brands are from the UK. Many of these you can buy in Nordstorm or through US-based online stores, or directly from the UK.

Curvy Kate bras is what I recommend to women who are fans of a retro-burlesque look and rich colours.

Panache bras are rather conservative when it comes to design but it's sister brand Cleo is fun and girly; while Masquerade has a couple of glamourous styles that come in bigger cups (like the Antoinette).

Freya with it's bright colours, sheers fabrics an interesting option if you are looking for something fun and youthful. 

Pour Moi? offers the Forbidden which is a cage / harness style that comes is several styles and colours and comes with some killer bottoms.

Fantasie's luxurious line Fauve has a couple of beautiful bras in bigger sizes, as well as bustiers. I used to think that Fantasie is stuffy, but I ended up loving the looks of their Allegra and the more boudoir Elodie.

Bravissimo has a couple inexpensive offerings, I personally like their Rococo Charm and the  Lola Luxe Basque.

Avocado Valentina

Prefer continental Europe?

Ewa Michalak is probably the winner when it comes to shape, comfort and lift for bigger cups. They will also custom-make bras for you if you want one that doesn't come in your size. The aesthetics is definitely not minimalistic, expect lace, colours, patterns. Their Babydoll with a built-in bra is cute. They even have a new model called Victoria's Secret. Cheeky!

Avocado has narrower cups and more classic designs. They have their own sizing, you can find the sizing guide on their site. The Valentina In Love is a classic black lace design.

Empreinte is a French brand that I have discovered really recently. Their seduction line has several beautiful bra models that are the elegant kind of sexy. If you click on "details of the forms" on the right, you'll see that each bra comes in several styles. However the cups go up only to G.

  Over to you, dear readers. What you add to this list? And, most importantly, which bra would you pick if you were aiming to seduce?

Skin-Toned Basic Underpinnings

   I will be travelling in the next two weeks, and I have just one post per week scheduled. However I will be posting beauty tips and glimpses of the french Provence on the Venusian*Glow facebook page. Even if you have already clicked on the "like", don't forget to click on "follow" so that you don't miss anything.

    I had five different roles in my theatre piece, and that means five different costumes. I literally had minutes to change my clothes and do my hair. And then I had to enter the stage looking calm and collected, as if I had been wearing that outfit all day. I wouldn´t have done it without two helpers and my basics of nude underthings.

    Every woman should have a capsule collection of well-fitting nude underpinnings. Why you need them:

• They make clothes look more formal, pulled together and modest*.
• They make difficult clothing work: too sheer formal wear, for example.
• Perfect for travelling: you never know what clothes you might buy on the way.

   Obviously, what exactly you need depends on your style and lifestyle. Personally, I have discovered that having a nice palette of universal skin-toned underthings means I can be more adventurous with my clothing choices.
   *Modesty: This may or may not be a priority for you. However I find it hard to pull off sheer clothing without looking tacky, if you are not wearing the right undergarments.

Here is my collection of nude basics:

Strapless: Ewa Michalak Toffi and Wonderbra

   I have several nude bras that I wear under whites and most sheers stuff, however the strapless wins because of its versality. It works under strapless dresses, strappy tops and dresses, and all kinds of wide necklines, where visible bra straps would look sloppy. The Wonderbra is more comfortable, but nothing beats the Toffi for support.

Nude tank top: HM

    I wear this under everything that is sheer (or even a tad sheer). I like that it gives me a smooth look and looks modest.
   The tank top form HM isn´t the ideal tank top because the beige is a bit dull. I´d prefer something a bit more satiny -- nudes look nicest if the fabric is glossy. I do however appreciate the thin straps and the length of the tank top (it should not be too short).

Nude bottoms

    When buying nude bottoms, go the whole way and make sure they are invisible or seamless (which means you get no Visible Panty Lines). I have no idea where my favourite pair is from, but my second fav one is from Affinitas. Get ones with a cotton crotch, to keep infections away from your ladybits.

Half-slip: HM

   I use half-slips for several reasons: to mask visible panty lines, to smooth out the area and help clingy skirts fall better, under sheer skirts, and to minimise stactic from tights.
   The half-slip from HM is great: the fabric is soft and slightly stretchy, nothing like the only-fashioned stiff ones. The fabric has a slight sheen and is very pretty, and it matches the Toffik nicely.
   A plus point if the slip has a lace trimming on the bottom -- this will look intriguing and sexy if the bottom of the slip is revealed.
   In case you have a hard time finding a slip that works for your slip colour, this is very easy to sew as long as you know how to work with stretchy fabrics. Here is a tutorial.

Thigh-highs: Falke

   I love Falke because they are basically indestructible. This German-made pair survived the three theatre performances in spite of getting into contact with velcro on my shoes and less-than-careful handling, while the nylons of my fellow actress had runs after the first scene. I chose thigh-highs because waist-highs make me sweat, are often too low at the crotch and the band can create bulges and rolls. This pair actually stays put and I have had no problems with it trying to slip off. I seriously recommend Falke when it comes to hosiery!

On my wishlist:

Here are items that I would like to own, but haven´t yet purchased. Does anyone have any tips for me?
   A nude full slip, to wear under sheer dresses. It is really hard to find something that works in the bust area, so it would either have to be bust-free, or with an in-built bra (is this even possible to find in a 28E?)
   A nude strapless tank-top. Does this have a proper name? For strapless sheer tops.
   A nude bustier-- I noticed this is what celebs wear under sheer stuff. Now I don´t think I´ll ever find something for me as I would need something in my bra size that works for my tum as well.
    A long slip that goes past my knees. This is so rare that it´s almost a unicorn.

Tips for buying basics:

• "Nude" is a relative colour. My nude is a slightly darker shade of beige. Your nude may be almost white, or tan, or brown -- whatever is close to your skin tone.
• Black often works really well as a "nude" for darker skin tones, as it is a colour that recedes and does not call attention to itself.
• Pastel pink can work as a nude tone for very pale skin tones.
• White bras don´t work under white, nude bras work under white!
• Nude works best when the fabric is luxurious, aka glossy. Matte nudes can look matronly. I like my nudes to be slightly synthetic, as they age better than pure cotton.
• A little bit of embellishment can work wonders to make a nude piece look interesting, but the outlines of ruffles or lace should not be visible under clothing.
• Nude will have you covered for most cases, but you can also get all the basics again in black if you want all your bases covered.

   "Nude" will obviously be defined by your skin tone. Even though the industry tries to define skin-tone as a certain shade of beige, for some, off-white and even pale pink might work as nude, for others it will be browns.

   Do you have a collection of skin-toned underpinnings? Or do you find that too old-fashioned? What are your personal rules about wearing sheer fabrics?

VAT Tax On International Bra Orders: Are You Paying It Twice?

   If you have been buying bras (or anything else) from abroad, you might want to know what VAT is, whether it's included in the price of your bras, and whether you have to pay it or not. You might even be accidentally paying it twice! Also, a tip for those of you with a mastectomy.

So, how does VAT work? 

   VAT a tax on the purchase price. It is a tax meant for residents of that country, (or the whole EU). You pay VAT to the government of the country that you live in, so you do not pay VAT for an item that you order from another country. You will, however, have to pay import tax.
    If you are travelling internationally, you can often get VAT refunded. You need to keep the bills of the items you purchased and find out where to get a refund. I once remember my aunt waking up very sleepy customs officials at the airport at midnight to get back 50€ VAT for us.

According to Wikipedia:

"Nearly all countries that use VAT use special rules for imported and exported goods:

* All imported goods are charged VAT tax for their full price when they are sold for the first time
* All exported goods are exempted from any VAT payments"  

 So, how does this work when buying bras? Prices on most websites include VAT, which may be anywhere from 5% to 22%, depending on the country. Here are two scenarios. EU is used here just as an example, the examples apply to most countries.

Scenario #1: 
  You are buying bras from the EU, and you live in the EU. The VAT is included in the price of the bra, and you have to pay that full price.

Scenario #2:
   You are buying bras from the EU but you live outside the EU. The VAT should be deducted from the price of the bras. This is indisputable.
   What happens when the package arrives to your country depends on the tax laws of your country. Probably you will have to pick up the package at the customs office and pay the VAT of your country + customs for the bras. Or not. The VAT of your country is probably different from the VAT of the country where your bras came from.

You should not be paying VAT twice

   This was brought to my attention by a lovely Swiss reader who also happens to be a lawyer. She lives outside the EU, and had ordered a bra from a store within  the EU. The price of the bras included the VAT tax (20%), which she normally should not be paying since she is not an EU citizen. However the seller did not deduct the VAT, even though the bras were being exported outside the EU. Once the bras were in Switzerland, she had to pay import tax, plus the Swiss VAT (8%). Not fair!

How to navigate the VAT issue

  Unfortunately not many online stores pay attention to the VAT issue when selling internationally. The correct way would be to change the prices to the untaxed price on checkout for non-EU customers. However, it looks like nobody does that, although I have seen an ad of a clothing store offering "21% off for non-EU buyers", which strikes me as a very simple and elegant solution.

  Most online stores that I researched did not even mention VAT. Here is what I found out so far:

Ewa Michalak: will subtract VAT if reminded. Maybe remind them before you actually pay?
Bravissimo stated that "Although goods sent to addresses outside the EU are not subject to VAT, our customers pay the same prices across the world as this helps us to cover some of the additional costs of providing a service to international customers."
Debenhams likewise doesn't refund VAT: "All total prices for goods and services at the checkout represent the total price payable by the customer for those items, regardless of the address for delivery. For deliveries to the EU, this price includes VAT (or VAT equivalent) at the current rate. Although this price is the same for deliveries outside the EU, where VAT (or VAT equivalent) may not be applicable, customers are not entitled to any discount or refund to account for the differences in tax treatment and will pay the same price for the item as a customer placing an order for delivery to the EU. " 

VAT for mastectomy: 

   Apparently if you have had a mastectomy, you don't have to pay VAT.

So what is my advice? 

   I'd suggest writing to bra stores that you want to order from and asking about VAT refunds. There is nothing like customer pressure to change the policies of businesses.

   If anyone of you knows of bra stores that refund VAT, or simply have more precise information about VAT, do share in the comments!

   Big thanks to R. and to the amazing Perfectly Fitted Bra Bloggers (especially the ladies behind FussyBusty, DressingCurves and WideCurves for material for this post!

How I Shop For Bras, Part 2: The Buying

     Last week I talked about how I research and choose bras when shopping online. Today I will describe the actual buying, which isn't always so straightforward. I will talk about I choose an online store, as well as shipping, returns and buying second hand, and will share a couple of special tips. I hope that you will also share your tips and your favourite places to buy bras, in the comments.

Finding stores

      I use google search (buy + bra name + bra siza), google shopping, and also try all the bra stores that I can think of. I always try Brastop, because the often have really good deals. I also try Ebay: many people don't realise that a lot of reputable online stores also have an ebay outlets, sometimes with slightly cheaper prices or slightly different items or sizes may be in stock. For best results enable worldwide location, sort by price + shipping, and always check the exchange policy.

Store criteria:

      When choosing a store I first look for the following things:

* Payment options -- I don't own a credit card, so I usually pay with Paypal when buying from overseas. If I buy from a German site I have more paying options.
* Shipping charges -- free shipping sounds like the best thing, however this often means that you have to pay for shipping the stuff back yourself. So I prefer to pay 5€ shipping and get free return shipping, than get free shipping and have to pay 8€ return shipping. Websites rarely mention who will pay for return shipping, sometimes you can find it in the fine print, and other times you either contact them or just try your luck.
* Return policy -- how much time you get to ship the items back? Two weeks is standard, but 30 days is preferable if long distances are involved. It is often possible to mail smaller businesses and ask them for a longer time period if you live far away.

  An important tip: it is better to assume that returns or exchanges will be involved, otherwise you might end up with half-hearted purchases.

 Picking the right store:

    The price is very important, and it is worth checking the deals not only in your country, but also neighbouring countries and the UK. I usually buy British lingerie directly from UK stores, since the prices are usually much lower than in German online stores. Also, it is much easier to find the items on sale in UK stores.
     I rarely narrow down my wishlist to just one bra; I usually choose a couple that sound like they might work and order them all to try on. I keep only the winner, the rest gets shipped back -- I feel like this way I get my money's worth, even if I do end up paying a couple of Euros extra for shipping costs.
    Even when I want to order just one item, I order a couple of other interesting pieces anyway, to compare, for future reference, or just to get to know a new brand or model. These end up getting returned. (Warning: this might seriously backfire if you have problems letting stuff go).
    Often I can't find everything I want in the same store, and I have to poke around to find a place that carries all the items. Sometimes I have to resort to workarounds: recently I wanted to order a couple of different swimwear pieces. Bras and Honey had everything I wanted, except the Panache Veronica bikini set in my size and in red. I ended up ordering the bikini bottom in purple paisley, and the top in blue and a cup size too small. That was I'd get an idea if the set works for me and how the sizing runs, and if I really liked it I could buy the right size and colour elsewhere. I would be ordering several other swimsuits, so returns were inevitable.

   If you want to order from a store that looks a bit shady, you can always check its reputation on bra-fitting forums like r/ABraThatFits, Busenfreundinnen or Bratabase.
   And here is a secret tip: if you check out, enter your email, but don't actually complete the transaction (you don't actually buy and pay for the stuff in your shopping cart), often you get an email with a discount code sent to you. Not all stores do this, but it also works with many non-lingerie online stores.

Trying on and returns

   I recommend trying on the items after showering, but before applying any kind of body moisturiser or even deodorant. Bikini bottoms, panties or one-piece swimsuits should always be tried on over clean panties. Remember that returns will not be accepted if the piece is not clean or if it smells.
   I take my time to decide which bras I want to keep and which not. Always remember to take a look of how the bra looks under clothes. I often take photos or ask a friend if I can't make up my mind. You can wear the bra for 15 minutes or so, to check if it is comfortable. Do pack the items to be returned carefully, as bras can lose their shape when squashed.

Buying secondhand

   You can often get amazing deals if you buy secondhand. I usually do this if I am sure of the size and fit of the bra that I want. Ebay is a great place, so it Bratabase listings and r/Braswap. Also check local clothes swapping / selling sites. Private sellers rarely accept returns, but they are usually happy to oblige with extra photos or measurements if you ask.


   This is how my process usually looks like. It might sound tedious, but I do like to take a little extra time to make sure I get exactly what I want for my money. Also, there are times when I know exactly what I want and where I can buy it (like in the case of Ewa Michalak bras), then it literally takes just a few minutes to place my order. If you'd like to see other posts that i wrote about bra shopping, check out the label bra buying guides.

   I'd love to know how shopping for bras looks like for you. Do you prefer to research or are you more spontaneous?

How I Shop For Bras, Part I: The Research

   Shopping for bras isn't exactly a piece of cake. So I wanted to share a little bit about how I do it, and I hope that you will share your own tips in the comments!


   Sometimes I know exactly what I want, like the Panache Sports in the next size. Sometimes I spot a gorgeous bra that I covet but I don't know whether it will work for me (and which size I should order it in). At other times I just need something, like a bikini or a black T-shirt bra, and I have to sift through all the available options.

What are my options?

   I often start my search with Ewa Michalak, simply because all their bras are based on a couple of different cuts. I know that anything in the PL, CHP and CH will work for me. Now, lets say Ewa Michalak doesn't have what I want, and I have to continue my search elsewhere.
   First, I go to big online bra stores with a good search interface (lets you sort bras by size, type, brand colour, etc) and look through the options available. Some of the sites I like are Herroom, Figleaves, Bravissimo, BrasandHoney, and google shopping. Ebay throws up lots of interesting older models. Given my bra size and my taste, it often turns out that I don't have so many options after all. I also search for my sister-size, because there are much more options out there in 30 bands than in 28 bands. I note them all down, still ignoring the price at this point. This is because prices can vary a lot for store to store!

Real looks

    I always look for unedited non-studio photos of lingerie when shopping. First, I want to see how the colours look without professional lighting (for example the red Panache Veronica Bikini looks pinkish on catalogue photos but true red on "real" ones also catalogue photos don't register the fact that the blue version is a bit sparkly). Also, these photos give me a clue as to how high or low the bra / bikini / bottoms are, what kind of fabric has been used, etc. If I'm lucky I might find a photo of the piece being worn by a non-model, which gives a lot of clues of how the piece will look on me.
    Ebay is an amazing source for simple, unedited shots. Don't forget to check the "worldwide" option for even more hits! I also look for photos on google image search, often using the search terms "Parfait Charlotte + review" or "Masquerade Persia + blog" to get more non-catalogue photos.
   Another great way to get a feel for the bra are videos. There are a couple of websites out there which feature videos of products, like Asos. Then there are fashion show videos, you need to search for "Panache S/S 2014" for example. Then there are video reviews on youtube, very few, but still worth the search.

Fit research

    Does the bra run small or big in the cup or band? Are the underwires narrow or broad? All of this information is often somewhere out there, I just need to find it. Bratabase is a great source for both photos and fit information. So is Balkonetka. I always look for reviews in sizes close to mine (if I can find them), since there is often a big difference between the fit of the same bra model in a smaller cup size as compared to a much bigger cup size. The third great source of fit informations are blogs, I just google "Panache Lucille + blog review".
   Then there are of course reviews on websites. The problem here is that I never know if the reviewer is wearing the correct size, still these reviews can be valuable if you haven't found anything on blogs or Bratabase. Not all sites have them, try Bravissimo, Amazon (both US and UK), Herroom, Freshpair, Nordstrom.
   Didn't find anything yet? Try searching or posting on r/ABraThatFits or the Bratabase forum.

   Next Monday I'll be talking about the actual buying: new vs second-hand, choosing stores, comparing prices, and shipping costs.

   How do you do your research prior to bra shopping? Do you have favourite online stores, blogs or other resources that you rely on?

Cups With Vertical Seams For Shallow Or Bottom-Heavy Breasts

    A couple of days back I was fitting a friend with shallow breasts for a bra. It was actually my first time fitting someone with shallow breasts in real life! (shallow breasts have a broad base but not much projection; I have explained it here, here are some examples, NSFW). Her size was very similar to mine so I had her try on everything that I own. And here is what I noticed: almost everything with vertical seams fit her shallow breasts. Of course sometimes there were issues with underwires, but all the cups that were made out of vertical pieces fit her well and looked flattering. Cups with other cuts, especially the typical 3-piece half-cup cut, usually didn´t for or looked like an orange in a glass.
   Cups with vertical seams are usually the best-fitting and flattering style for breasts that are bottom-heavy (not full on top). That's why I own so many of them, and I love the way they look on me.


   When I´m talking about vertical seams, I´m talking about something like this:

OnlyHer Latte Plunge. Full review here.

  I'll explain this in detail for those of you who haven't given much thought to bra cup construction. Bra cups (except moulded ones) are made out of several pieces of fabric that is sewn together. That way you get a curved shape out of flat fabric. Now, there are several ways of doing this, one of them is where the cup is "cut up" vertically into several pieces. The cups of the bra above are each made of two pieces, you can tell by the vertical seam in the middle of each cup. 

  The bras below are made of three pieces:

Ewa Michalak CH Lilia and CH Onyx

The same cut: Ewa Michalak CH Lilia again, this is how it looks like in a small cup size. The model has quite shallow breasts.

As a contrast, these bras are made up of two vertical pieces and on horizontal strip at the top. These are not the cups I'm discussing in this post:

Ewa Michalak  ? And Ewa Michalak Chilli

   Back to cups with vertical seams. Sometimes they are made of just two pieces, sometimes three or even four. This kind of cut means the cups are usually shallower. The top edges of the cup are horizontal (or almost horizontal), which I call the balcony style (although manufacturers may call it balcony, balconette or even half-cup or demi-cup. Pay no attention, if the top edges are vertical and not diagonal, it is a balcony style bra). Less often, other cup styles may have vertical seamy, like the OnlyHer Latte Plunge at the top of this post. OnlyHer has several bras in this style, which is very flattering for shallower breasts.

All Ewa Michalak´s CH and CHP models have vertical seams, so I know that they will fit me perfectly:

Ewa Michalak gazeta

Wiesmann has tons of balconnets with vertical seams. Same construction as this one, but different designs and colours:

Full review here.

    Sometimes a pattern or lace on the top edge can be confusing. In this case taking a peek at the backside makes the seams visible:

 The Parfait Affinitas Charlotte (balconette model) was an interesting case: The cups have vertical seams but are deeper. However the cups are closed on top, so the top edge lay flush with the chest even though there was a bit of space in the nipple area. My friend ended up taking it because it looks seriously good on her:

Full review here.

 I noticed a couple of vertical-seamed bras among the shallow-breasted ladies that have appeared on this blog:

Ewa Michalak CHP Milady in 34D. Full metamorphosis here.

Midnight Grace by Figleaves in 30D. Full metamorphosis here.

   So what's the verdict? If you have shallow breasts, chances are bras with vertical seams might fit you well. Obviously "results may vary" as not all such bras are alike, and neither are all shallow breasts. From what I have heard, Curvy Kates usually don't work for shallow breasts, because their cups are too deep (even though they have vertical seams).

  If your breasts are bottom-heavy, I also recommend giving this cup style a chance.

   Does this cut work for you? (Don't forget to mention your breast shape). Also, for those who love this style: any particular models you'd recommend?

What To Do With Bras That Don´t Fit

   We all have them -- bras that don't fit right. Maybe you couldn't return them, or maybe they are a size you grew out of. They are too good to throw away, so what else can you do? Here are some ideas and resources:

Wear them

   Some imperfectly fitting bras are fine to wear to bed or even around the house (sometimes): too loose bands, slightly big cups, cups that pucker or wrinkle (purely aesthetic issues). Just don 't wear anything with a too narrow underwire or too small cups!

Sell them

   Some good places are Bratabase listings, Braswap and your local clothes sell/swap site (I use Kleiderkreisel which has equivalents in several European countries, click on the flags on the bottom of the page). You can also use Ebay. Remember to upload a couple of good photos and provide as many measurements as possible!

Donate them

    Sometimes a bra look a tad too worn to sell, or maybe you´ve tried selling it an nobody is interested? You can always take it to your nearest clothes donation point, but I always worry that the bras with "unusual" sizes will go to waste because probably nobody will know what to do with a 28DD.
 For this reason I highly recommend Random Acts Of Bras, where you can make someone very happy -- or find a bra for yourself if you are broke.
Reader tip: you can also donate them to freethegirls.com which is a seriously awesome non-profit that helps survivors of sex trafficking.


   What do you do with bras that don't fit? Know of any good places to sell or donate "unusual" sizes?

Which Bras Did I Buy Again When My Size Changed + Bra Sale 28-30, B-E

   Which bras would I rebuy every time my size changed? Also, I am clearing out my bra drawer, which means you have the chance to grab some cheap bras!

   When I realised I went up a cup sizes, I was suddenly faced with literally nothing to wear, except for two really old bras left over from pregnancy times. Putting together a new bra wardrobe can be frustrating (just when you finally got all you needed, and besides: all that money!), but at the same time it's nice to have a clean palette. Some of my old bras were so amazing that I didn't want to part with them, others I didn't feel sad to part with.
     So which of my old bras did I re-buy in a new size? Here are the models that made it to "level 2":

Panache Sports Bra

   A good sports bra is a wardrobe staple, and the Panache beat the Freya for a place in my bra drawer. The Freya Sport does offer better support, but the difference is not so noticeable in my size (and I don't do very "hard" sports). However I found myself reaching for the Panache sport way more often than for the Freya sport because I'm not too fond of the pointy shape I get in the Freya.

Ewa Michalak CH Onyx 

 I love this bra for the comfort, lift and shape it gives me. I also like the little inserts which give me control of how cleaveage-y I want to be that day. I have already re-bought this but accidentally in the PL instead of the CH Version, which does fit well but doesn't look as good on me as the CH. Does anyone want reviews?

Parfait Affinitas Charlotte Balconet

  This bra is fabulous and I hope they never stop producing it, as I plan to re-buy it every time I change sizes. Great fit, cute design, luxurious fabric, lovely lift -- what more could a girl want? I am definitely going to buy this, I'm just looking till my shop of choice stocks up on a certain other bra. And I'm having a hard time letting go of the one that doesn't fit any more: what if Affinitas stop producing them?

Ewa Michalak Toffi Strapless 

   This is definitely not the most comfortable bra in my drawer, but it is the most reliable one. The support is amazing, everything is immobilised. I wear it very often in the summer, not only with strapless dresses but with wide necks or elegant strappy stuff.
   Here is the interesting thing though: the Toffi strapless still fits! There used to be a little gaping at the top of the cups, which I put down to my breasts being bottom-heavy. Well, now it's gone.

Other bras I would rebuy:

    Luckily I bought a few new favourites in my new size. The Weismann Tamara is a soft-cup that fits perfectly and would be a potential re-buy in the future. So would the OnlyHer Latte Plunge.
    And there are two models that aren't being produced any more that I'd love to re-buy: the Panache Flamenco which is amazing, and the Discover Mademoiselle Clara Bow. And the Ewa Michalak bikini top in red.

Bra Sale! For You!

   With a heavy heart I am sorting out my bra drawer and releasing these beauties. If you'd like to buy any of them, sent me a mail at eternaloyageur (at) gmail(dot) com. I ship internationally for 2.50€ :) And of course feel free to ask anything in the comments.

Panache Sports, 28DD, in good condition. Grey-blue colour. 28€  Review here

Panache Tango II in fuschia, 28E, lightly worn. 18€ I'd say it runs a bit small in the cups.

 Panache Tango II plunge in soft pinkish violet, 28DD. Good condition. 1€. I'd say it runs a bit small in the cups.

Panache Tango II in violet, 28E 14. I'd say it runs a bit small in the cups.

Fantasie Fullcup in 30DD, new with tags. 14€

Charnos bioform 30DD, with the famous "wing" underwires which are comfortable and supportive. 30DD, for 14€. Apparently is also a collector's item.

Panache backless Bustier in 30D, detachable straps. New with tags, cups run slightly large.

Passionata black strapless, UK32B fits like a 30D on the tightest hook. Back view. Has removable straps, which I forgot to include in the photo. Very comfortable (padded) underwires. Lightly worn. 18€

Parfait Affinitas Tamara Demi Bra 30DD, fits like a 30D, with matching bottoms (M). Almost new. A very sexy set! 20€

Discover Mademoiselle 30DD, fits like a 30D. 12€

Discover Mademoiselle Clara Bow in 30D 12€

Gossard Superboost in 30D. Gives a nice cleavage. The band is tightened with an elastic for a tutorial on this blog. 6€

Panache Porcelain in 28DD, white but a part of the strap got coloured lightly pink by accident. 6€  Review and photos here.

Marks and Spencers black, 30B, unworn. 12€ (will add photo tomorrow).

Bras To center Breast Tissue + What To Look For When Buying A Bra

   Hey everyone, I'm back from Poland and very jet-lagged (can you call it jet-lag if you haven't been flying?) but as I can't sleep I decided to write this post instead. (Yes, I brought bras back home and there will be reviews). Also, sorry for not being able to publish many of your comments (that the commenting program wanted me to moderate) -- I couldn't get it to work on my phone.     This mail popped into my inbox with a couple of interesting questions:

   Thanks for sharing with us your bra fitting tips and experiences on your blog!  I find your info really useful since most of the info on the internet is about what does a bad bra fitting looks like and the signs of it but never really the causes. I can never figure out why in some bras the cups feel tight even though I don't have the classic signs of a bad fitting bra and am technically in the right size.  Thanks to your blog, I find out I need medium to broad underwires. The other bras I felt tight in had narrower underwires.  

I have some bra fitting questions that I hope you can answer:

1. I live in the U.S and most of the brands you recommended on your blog are only available online.  I think we have Gossard & Elle Macpherson in Nordstrom stores. Are there other good affordable U.S brands that I can find in U.S stores? I have never tried to return/exchange clothing online since I see that as wasting money in shipping it back and forth.  Also, I don't know if it's just that I haven't been to a lot of lingerie stores in my area but most of the bras are for breasts full on top, which wouldn't fit me properly because of my breast shape.

2. Can a right size & style bra help the breast tissue migrate more towards the center if I don't have a bad case of breast tissue migration?  I think I'm pretty fortune in that I don't have big breasts all my life and wearing the wrong bra size thus I don't have the my breast tissue under my armpits and in back rolls.  My breast tissue has always been closer to the sides (my arms) than the center of my chest where I want them to be.

3. What kind of bras should I wear to better center my breast tissue?  Most demi & balconet bras have shorter wires I think and those with longer underwires have fuller cups that I can't fill out at the sides since I have shallow breasts.  I think a plunge bra would be more appropriate but I remembered you mentioned that they're not really comfortable for daily wear. 

4. What are the signs of a good bra design? What should we look for when purchasing a bra?  I know molded & contour cups aren't good for your breasts since they will mold your breast to the shape of the cup.  Can you further define what a soft cup bra is?  

  

Some background info to help you better answer my questions & understand my situation:

   I have an average size, I guess I'm lucky in that I can find my size easily in stores. I have shallow wide set breasts with medium to broad width (I think), my breasts are closer to the sides than the center.  My breast shape is more tear drop, resembling the shape on the far right in your shallow breast blog diagram. I'm also petite (I'm 5'2") with wide shoulders and overweight. I guess since I have kind of an athletic build, not much fat goes to my chest area even though I'm overweight, instead they're pretty well distributed all over my body.     

   I went for a bra fitting at Nordstrom around a year ago and they fit me in a 36B Chantelle C Chic 3 Part Cup bra.  However, in most other brands I usually wear a 34C depending on how stretchy the band is. Victoria's secret measure me at a 34B and my sister in a 34B as well even though in clothing we're at least one size apart!  I can't find my measuring tape at the moment but I think my under-bust measurement is around 34-35.

Hello J
     I'm so glad my blog helped you figure out your underwire width! Here are my suggestions regarding your questions: Also, thank you for writing them out clearly and logically :)

Offline stores in the US + shopping online frugally

    Here is a list of recommended brick-and-mortar stores. I think the best US brand at the moment is Parfait Affinitas, they have a couple of offline stores.
    Although shipping costs extra, online stores usually have a much bigger range of sizes, brands and models than offline stores, so don't completely dismiss online shopping. Also, you might find pretty low prices during sales and special promotions. Some online stores might offer free shipping (sometimes only for a limited time as a special offer). I recommend buying a bigger amount of bras online (10 or more) and returning most of them, this is much more frugal than shipping two pairs back and forth.

Centering wide-spaced breasts

   From personal experience I'd say that breasts can get a bit closer together from wearing well-fitting bras. I never used to have cleavage, just a flat space between my breasts, now I do have a "valley". My breasts are still wide-spaced, but not extremely so.
   Plunges can be comfortable, it's only those cleavage-enhancing styles like Panache Inferno that are not recommended for everyday wear. And many plunges that work with shallow breasts (what do you shallow-breasted ladies recommend?) Do check out my review of the Braologie Posture Contour bra and vest, it is what I recommend to everyone who wants to center their breasts and / or deal with migration.

What to look for when buying a bra

  Soft cups are cups that are not padded / molded. They can be made of one layer of fabric or lined. They work together with the breast shape instead of being a firm mold to which the breast tissue has to adapt. I recommend soft cups for everyday wear, and moulded and padded bras only under outfits that need them.
   I highly recommend underwires and not wire-free bras. Also, a one-piece band is usually superior to a three-piece band.
   The fabrics should feel nice to the touch and not scratch. The underwires should not be terribly bendy *cough* Triumph *cough*, although this is not such a big concern in smaller cup sizes. Do try pulling on the band to see how much it stretches; if you feel it is extra stretchy you might want to size down (don't forget to simultaneously size up in the cup).
   Finally, the material and elastic should be solid enough to last and not stretch out too soon. Maybe trained seamstresses can tell how long a bra will last by looking at it, I usually rely on online reviews.

A word on Victoria's Secret

   It sounds from your measurements that you should wear 34 bands. However I wouldn't trust VS fitters. A while back several bra bloggers went undercover and got a fitted at different Victoria's Secret stores, and you can admire the results here,  here, here. Here is an analysis of why their methods don't work. You need to get your measuring tape out and see what the calculator has to say. Try on several cup sizes in a store, and don't forget to scoop and swoop!



    Any tips and advice for J? Did your breasts get more centered from wearing well-fitting bras? What do you look for when buying a bra?

Parfait Affinitas Is Going Till K Cup This Fall

      Parfait Affinitas is one of my two favourite bra brands. The bras fit me perfectly and I love the luxurious fabrics and lovely details. However so many of you mentioned that you fall outside their sizing. Even though I am within their size range, I always wished it were available in bigger cups as well. After all, this is one of the things this blog is about -- to increase awareness for women as well as brands about the need for good, pretty bras in all kinds of sizes.
      Parfait Affinitas is thankfully one of the brands that listens to its customers and has increased their size range and will be offering cups up to K! This increase is right now limited to several models: Charlotte Padded Bra, Sophia Wire Bra and the Alexis Babydoll. However Affinitas promises to offer more styles in the expanded sizes in the future seasons.
     The bra on the photo above is the Charlotte (a huge favourite of mine which I reviewed here), which is now available in new colours: dusty rose and wild pink. I think the dusty rose one is mouthwatering gorgeous.

Charlotte in wild pink, the Sophia in nude and the Allison babydoll in black

     I am really looking forward to seeing how Affinitas bras look and fit in the bigger cups. I see the size expansion of Affinitas as a very positive sign, and hope that in the near future K cups will be the norm rather than the exception in stores.

     So, what do you think? Will you be buying one of the three bras that will be available in bigger cups? Which other Affinitas bra would you like to see in an expanded size?

Lingerie Fashion Week, Parfait Affinitas, Rouge Séduire, Cleavage Makeup

    A while back I was invited to attend the Lingerie Fashion Week in NY. Being on the wrong side of the Atlantic I couldn't attend (sob), but I received lovely photos from the event and backstage which I wanted to share with you.

   I pay attention only to brands which have a decent offer of sizes. In this show, Parfait Affinitas stood out a mile above it's competition with 30-40 D-G, and I've heard rumours that they might be increasing their size range even more (yay!).

Here are a couple of pretty sets that caught my eye:

Love the colourful straps here!

Another brand that caught my eye was Rouge Séduire because it carries the elusive sizes 30A-C. The aesthetic is very bedroom and some pieces are seriously sexy:

And because I totally love a sneak-peek backstage, here are a few images of the Parfait Affinitas models getting ready.

I have always suspected that models get foundation or concealer on every bit of skin that shows. Finally, here is the proof:

This models is getting cleavage make-up, kinda like Keira Knightley got for Pirates Of The Caribbean. If you'd like to try it, here is how: a bronzer or deeper shade of foundation goes into the cleavage valley and highlighter goes on the top parts of the breasts. If you own a contouring palette, even better!

War paint!

     I'd really love to attend a fashion show one day! I have heard that seeing photos or videos is not comparable with seeing it live, same like a theater performance. What do you think? Also, did any of the pieces from the photos catch your eye?