Cups With Vertical Seams For Shallow Or Bottom-Heavy Breasts

    A couple of days back I was fitting a friend with shallow breasts for a bra. It was actually my first time fitting someone with shallow breasts in real life! (shallow breasts have a broad base but not much projection; I have explained it here, here are some examples, NSFW). Her size was very similar to mine so I had her try on everything that I own. And here is what I noticed: almost everything with vertical seams fit her shallow breasts. Of course sometimes there were issues with underwires, but all the cups that were made out of vertical pieces fit her well and looked flattering. Cups with other cuts, especially the typical 3-piece half-cup cut, usually didn´t for or looked like an orange in a glass.
   Cups with vertical seams are usually the best-fitting and flattering style for breasts that are bottom-heavy (not full on top). That's why I own so many of them, and I love the way they look on me.

   When I´m talking about vertical seams, I´m talking about something like this:

OnlyHer Latte Plunge. Full review here.

  I'll explain this in detail for those of you who haven't given much thought to bra cup construction. Bra cups (except moulded ones) are made out of several pieces of fabric that is sewn together. That way you get a curved shape out of flat fabric. Now, there are several ways of doing this, one of them is where the cup is "cut up" vertically into several pieces. The cups of the bra above are each made of two pieces, you can tell by the vertical seam in the middle of each cup. 

  The bras below are made of three pieces:

Ewa Michalak CH Lilia and CH Onyx

The same cut: Ewa Michalak CH Lilia again, this is how it looks like in a small cup size. The model has quite shallow breasts.

As a contrast, these bras are made up of two vertical pieces and on horizontal strip at the top. These are not the cups I'm discussing in this post:

Ewa Michalak  ? And Ewa Michalak Chilli

   Back to cups with vertical seams. Sometimes they are made of just two pieces, sometimes three or even four. This kind of cut means the cups are usually shallower. The top edges of the cup are horizontal (or almost horizontal), which I call the balcony style (although manufacturers may call it balcony, balconette or even half-cup or demi-cup. Pay no attention, if the top edges are vertical and not diagonal, it is a balcony style bra). Less often, other cup styles may have vertical seamy, like the OnlyHer Latte Plunge at the top of this post. OnlyHer has several bras in this style, which is very flattering for shallower breasts.

All Ewa Michalak´s CH and CHP models have vertical seams, so I know that they will fit me perfectly:

Ewa Michalak gazeta

Wiesmann has tons of balconnets with vertical seams. Same construction as this one, but different designs and colours:

Full review here.

    Sometimes a pattern or lace on the top edge can be confusing. In this case taking a peek at the backside makes the seams visible:

 The Parfait Affinitas Charlotte (balconette model) was an interesting case: The cups have vertical seams but are deeper. However the cups are closed on top, so the top edge lay flush with the chest even though there was a bit of space in the nipple area. My friend ended up taking it because it looks seriously good on her:

Full review here.

 I noticed a couple of vertical-seamed bras among the shallow-breasted ladies that have appeared on this blog:

Ewa Michalak CHP Milady in 34D. Full metamorphosis here.

Midnight Grace by Figleaves in 30D. Full metamorphosis here.

   So what's the verdict? If you have shallow breasts, chances are bras with vertical seams might fit you well. Obviously "results may vary" as not all such bras are alike, and neither are all shallow breasts. From what I have heard, Curvy Kates usually don't work for shallow breasts, because their cups are too deep (even though they have vertical seams).

  If your breasts are bottom-heavy, I also recommend giving this cup style a chance.

   Does this cut work for you? (Don't forget to mention your breast shape). Also, for those who love this style: any particular models you'd recommend?

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