Daylight Lamp Against Winter Depression -- Beurer Daylight Lamp Review

I've been meaning to buy a daylight lamp since a couple of years, and after a push from my doctor I actually did it. You see, I have a very hard time each winter, my body acutely thirsts for sunlight. And there isn't any for weeks at a time. When the clouds finally break I often lie in a path of sunlight like a cat or something. When I've had a bit of sun I'm a completely different person.

Like with most things I took quite a bit of time to shop around and research, and settled on a Beurer TL 30. I picked it because it is the size of a tablet and flat (23,6 x 15,6 x 2,6cm), which means I can easily store it or transport it. It also has LED lights which means it uses almost no energy. It has a small stand at the back which also allows the lamp to be hung.

Anyway, has the daylight lamp been worth it? A resounding yes! I felt the effects from the first day I used it. I feel more alert and awake, and don't crash at dusk (which is at 4:30 pm here in December). I have "normal" evenings on days when I use the lamp, meaning that I am moderately tired but not more so than in the summer. My mood is also pretty fine.
If you are suffering from winter blues and a listlessness and lack of energy during the darker months, I really really suggest you try a daylight lamp out.

I use my Beurer daylight lamp for half an hour every day in the morning, while I eat breakfast or am at the computer. It stands on my desk near my face. After half an hour the light starts getting annoying so I switch it off. If your house is warm you can try taking of your shirt to expose more skin to the light, I find that it is more effective. Another way that my doctor recommended is to let the light shine on the soles of your feet (under a blanket, if you easily freeze like me). Don't use the lamp in the evenings or it will keep you from falling asleep.

I got my Beurer TL 30 off Amazon for around 50€. If you are in Germany, I saw the the Beurer lamp for a similar price in the next Tchibo catalogue.
Other good (but bulkier and pricier) lamps are those from Philips and Davita. Of course there are tons of other brands out there, but for the lamp to function properly it needs to have a brightness of at least 10,000 lux, and it needs to be UV-free.

Disclaimer: This is not a sponsored post. All opinions expressed in this post are 100% mine.

Balancing Your Beauty Budget Part I: Spending Categories and Priorities

Beauty should not be a big part of your budget.

This might sound strange coming from a beauty blogger, but it's true. There is just so much more that you can put your money to, like experiences. Or learning. Or charity. 

That said, most of the time we don't actually know how much we are spending on our skin, hair and makeup. Or if we know, the spending is often not in line with our actual needs.

To make a beauty budget that serves you, it helps to have broad guidelines as to how you actually want to spend your money. I don't want to discuss how much exactly is "fine" to spend and what is "too much" since this is a very individual thing. But let's assume that a) you choose to set a limit to the outflow of money that goes towards beauty, and b) you want to spend that outflow in a way that serves you best.

Splurge categories:

The first step I suggest is defining your top priorities, or what I call splurge categories. These are the things you'll be spending most of your money on.

Sun protection

Because prevention is better than cure, and there is no other prevention like sun protection. And good sunscreen doesn't come cheap. Don't skimp here.

Beauty problems and goals

What is the biggest issue of your skin and hair? If you could define one or two beauty goals, what would they be? Be specific, like increasing hair volume or dealing with under-eye circles. Long-term issues like psoriasis also come under this category.

This part of the budget will help you buy a couple (not more) of well-chosen products for your needs. Maybe you need a very specific mascara or concealer. Or a serum that deals with hyperpigmentation. Or maybe you want to put away this part of the budget to save up for eyebrow blading. Whatever it is, it should address the bigger issues.

Joy

Because man does not live by bread alone, you need hyacinths for the soul. For this category pick something that you love. Artisanal soap. Lipsticks. A face mist that doesn't do much but smells heavenly. I believe that consciously choosing a couple of luxuries that really make your heart sing will prevent overspending and impulse buying in other categories.

How much exactly you want to assign to these categories is something to decide for yourself. If you're in doubt I'd say that you can start with assigning half of your beauty budget to the Splurge categories. You can adjust this later on. At this point it would be interesting for you to know how much you roughly spend on your beauty needs each month. Try to note down last month's expenses, and see if they are in line with your general spending values.

What would go into your splurge categories? For me this would be mineral foundation and serums (goals) and highlighters (joy).

Photo credit: Fabian Blank via Unsplash

How To Convert Your Bras For All Kinds Of Difficult Tops: Strapless, Low-back, Bandeau, etc

I thought I knew all about convertible bra straps, but this lady takes it to another level. She covers backless dress, strapless, racerback, one shoulder, plunge neckline, halter top, bandeau and more. Especially what she doesat the 8-minute mark is seriously genius.

You can get the removable straps pretty cheap on Ebay. Or make one yourself.

Weekend Reads 17-12-2014

      Hi everyone, have you been? It's been a while since the last weekend reads, so without much ado here you go:

 * I know that the concept of Hygge has been done to death and horribly commercialised. So I was really happy to find an authentic blog about it from an actual (half) Dane. Some of my favourite posts from Hygge House are the shabby house, candles in the city, healing gifts, the real hygge,

* How to Become Less Uptight in Two Minutes

* Home: My Scandinavian Home has lots of interior that I love.

* Frau Frida's blog is full of beautiful cozy homey photos. If you can't read german, you'll still want to scroll for inspiration.

* How to eat less crap during the holidays.

* Great tips on styling cardigans


A Christmas movie that is as fun as it is charming, with very young and adorable Winona Ryder, Christian Bale and Kirsten Dunst:

Tips For Skin And Hair Care In A Sauna

I can't think why I didn't write anything about Saunas yet! Saunas are my favourite way to get rid of the winter blues. It's not just about the health benefits or what it does to my skin (makes it amazingly clean and soft), it's about tanking up on all the sensations I've been deprived of all winter. Let me explain -- a big cause of winter blues for me is that I miss all the ways my

The touch of warm wind and sun on my skin, grass under my feet, the heady mix of thousands of scents. Even the sound background is different -- birds and insects and the wind in the trees. During the winter I feel so isolated from everything, when I do go out it's packed in a hundred layers and in a hurry to get to the next warm place. It's too cold to leave the window open to hear the rain.

Sauna give me my much-needed portion of warmth and sensations. The best part that gives me a rush is going for the pause between sessions to the outdoor lounge area, where you can be naked even during even the coldest temperatures (or even better, a storm) and not feel the cold.

Apart from the huge health and well-being advantages, the sauna is really good for the skin. It opens up the pores and cleanses them, and the cool shower afterwards closes the pores and smooths the skin. In the long term, sauna strengthens the skins natural resistance.

What to bring to the sauna:

* Big towels. One for inside the sauna, one to dry off after a shower, and a third one (or a bathrobe) to wear in between sessions. Another one if your hair is long and needs its own towel.

* Rubber slippers. You don't want to catch anything.

* Skin and hair care products: oils, moisturisers, serums.

* Soap and shampoo.

* Scrubbing mitt. Scrubbing products can be frowned upon or forbidden if they look like they are going to make a mess or clog anything. One exception is a salt scrub, in fact some places have a little bowl where you can help yourself for free.

* Something to read.

You normally leave your clothes and handbag in a locker or a changing room, so you need something to carry the stuff in that you'll take inside. I like a Bolga basket as it means I don't have to rummage, plus it doesn't mind moisture. I have a small Baggu flat pouch for my skin products. Ideally I'd like something with a short strap, as it would be convenient to hang it in the shower.
At the end you end up with a bunch of wet towels, so it's a good idea to have a wet bag or plastic bag to pack them in.

My Sauna beauty routine

I use the heat of the sauna to my advantage. I always apply oil on my hair in the beginning because the heat helps it to penetrate into the hair shaft. If you have very dry or cuperouse skin, you can apply a heavier cream or oil on the affected areas.

After the first heat session I like to thoroughly scrub my skin, usually with Savon Noir and a Kessa glove. Sometimes I'll use a sachet of the Michael Droste-Laux Basisches Edelstein Bad as a scrub.

Before the last sauna session I apply deep conditioner on my hair. If my skin has been very dry lately then I apply a light layer of face masque or body oil. Regular cosmetics melt off in the sauna, that is why I prefer oils.

One sauna in my city has a steam room that is made of stone instead of wood, and is hosed off after every use. Here I can go wild with skin care, because I'm not afraid of making a mess. On really nice ritual for such rooms: scrub yourself with sea salt, go for a few minutes into the steam sauna, then shower, then apply honey all over, and spend another 10 minutes in the sauna.

At the end I go for a body butter and a moisturiser or oil for my face. Don't use anything with AHAs or BHAs straight after the sauna as the skin is sensitive. Sometimes I don't apply anything and just let my skin breathe.

Sauna Etiquette:

Don't let your sweat drip on the wood. This means put a towel under everything, even your feet (unless you are siting on the bottom shelf). Get a big towel, especially if you are a big person.
Don't open the door for any longer than necessary. Don't stare. That's basically it.

On Nudity:

There are many reasons why traditional saunas forbid clothing of any kind: not only is a swimsuit very uncomfortable, it can be hazardous to health -- Saunas often include a swimming pool with chlorinated water, and if you swim there and then the chlorine evaporates off your swimming suit in the sauna, it can really damage the lungs of all present. Also, saunas are meant to be safe places to comfortably be naked, and just like on a nudist beach, this works best if everyone is naked.

I really suggest that you try saunaing the traditional way, in your birthday suit. It is very freeing. Many places have a women's day once a week. If you really don't want to be naked, a bikini is much more comfortable than a one-piece. It's also ok to keep your towel around you.


Of course there are many different ways of doing Sauna, this is just the way I like to do it. Do you go to the Sauna? What are your tips? Or maybe you haven't tried it yet?

How I Shop For Stylish And Sustainable Clothing On The Cheap

   I  wanted to share a little bit about my way of shopping for clothes, or rather my buying philosophy.

    I like fashion and see it as a form of self expression, and I like to experiment a lot. I am definitely not a minimalist. I keep my clothes budget really low because it just isn't something I want to invest money on. But on the other hand I would really like to afford clothes that are ethically and ecologically produced - - without harm to the environment or human rights. I shopped the high street for some years, and wasn't really happy about it.

  Right now I am at the point where I have found my own style, and my wardrobe is filled with pieces I love and I get frequent compliments on. Almost all are pre-owned. What isn't pre-owned is usually a gift. I haven't bought new clothes in ages apart from underwear and summer socks.

    I get complemented on my style and my clothes, so buying second hand doesn't mean sacrificing style or quality! It's all about having an eye for which colours flatter you, which proportions work for you (I learned it from these blogs), and having a basic knowledge of fabrics.

I love to buy secondhand because:

* The variety of choice! I have access to all the colours and styles. I have had more luck in finding very specific items secondhand than in retail stores. Stores usually have a slim selection of colours and styles, which often don't match me at all. Nor to mention that half of the stuff here in Germany is grey or black.

* Financial and ethical freedom to experiment with my style: I spontaneously pick up a lot of items that are outside of my current style zone. At the last clothing swap I picked up several really interesting items, and I'll see how well they work with the rest of my wardrobe and my lifestyle -- if I don't, I'll pass them on. I wouldn't have bought them if I had seen them in a normal store, because although there is a 50% chance that the pieces would become my new favourites, but there is also 50% chance that they wouldn't work for me at all.

* Living outside the trends: because I don't shop in regular stores, I don't get exposed to the current trends so much. My fashion horizon is much wider. Thrift stores and swap events means I get exposed to a lot of very different stuff! It's especially cool when people who have traveled or have very eccentric fashion tastes bring their stuff to swap parties -- I have up with stuff from the UK, Japan, Malaysia in my closet. Stuff that I'd normally never get exposed to in "normal" stores.

* Releasing items that don't work for me. I regularly edit and purge my closet and bring the clothes I'm not keeping to swap parties or to my local thrift store. But first I let my friends take their pick -- It's really nice to see a friend picking out items that have been hard to part with. Also, I know that my unwanted clothes go -- did you know that a lot of donated clothes end up getting sold (yes sold, and not for low prices) in poorer countries, which kills the local textile industry?

* Ethics. I'm not giving money to brands whose ethics are not aligned with mine. No new stuff is getting produced just for me, no extra shipping, etc. Also, I know that this opinion might be controversial, but I feel ok with buying second hand leather and silk stuff, though I would balk at buying them new. (My feet are really fussy and I have to be really picky with shoes, and at the moment I can't afford the really good vegan shoes.)

* Champagne life on a beer budget: My closet includes some really beautiful pieces that I normally wouldn't be able to afford. Cashmere and lambswool sweaters, some really beautiful pieces from brands that would normally be way beyond my budget. Some fancy coats and scarves. My newest find is an amazing Alpaca coat. I paid 23€ for it.

* Real quality and durability: items that make their way to thrift stores or swap parties have survived wear and washes, so I know that they are sturdy and won't fall apart soon. I can see what to expect in regards of pilling, fading,  shrinking/stretching, beading staying on. This is especially true for sweaters and jeans!

Taking outfit pictures has to be THE most powerful tool in building your style. Try it :)

Where I shop:

* Local thrift stores: there aren't that many in my town, actually there is only one good and affordable one. I go there every time they get stuff for the new season -- on the first day. On the second day half of the best stuff is already gone. Also, the Sozialkaufhaus community shops usually have a small clothing selection -- usually really old and outdated stuff, with some amazing gems hidden in the midst.

* Foreign thrift stores: I often hit a thrift store when I'm traveling within Europe. The best ones so far have been in the UK, but even in Spain (which is the country of label snobs) I chanced upon a quirky flea market inside an old church. I always search online for thrift stores ahead of time, mark them on my map, and visit any that happen to be near the places I want to see.

* Clothes swapping and selling websites: Vinted has versions in several European countries and I still use it even though the have made really awful changes to the site. Shpock is another site / app that I have had success with. Fashion forums very often have a swap / sell section! Also local Facebook groups where the members swap or sell clothes are also gaining in popularity -- you can start your own if you can't find one.

* Ebay and Ebay Kleinanzeigen (classifieds): I always search for stuff from private sellers (to avoid the cheaply-produced new stuff from commercial sellers). My best buy so far is a pair of Ecco booties -- I tried them on in a store and loved them, but decided to search online for a used pair first. I found a once-worn pair on Ebay for half the price.
My secret to Ebay shopping is to tick the "private sellers" checkbox to filter out all the cheapo new stuff. Ebay hid this option, in fact on the Ebay US site I couldn't find it at all. In other countries you make a search, click on any "see all" on the left column,  go to "seller" and check the seller type > private option.

* Flea Markets and second-hand markets: Flea markets don't have any place to try stuff on, but are great for accessories, and the prices are often rock-bottom. Usually I take a quick glance the seller's stuff, whether they have my colour and a style that looks interesting. I have learned to spot stands with stuff that fit with my style -- these are the stands where I look at every item.

* Friends: I don't remember which one of us was the first one who started it, but we often say "I bought this lovely piece but it just isn't working for me, but I thought it's kind of your style. Would you like to try it on?" Sometimes we give away the stuff for free, sometimes we ask for a small amount for it. Sometimes we even help the original owner to make the item work for them: "that will work if you shorten it." It might be a little awkward at first, but it soon becomes a normal thing if your friends are open-minded.

* Clothing swap parties: love them. You can either invite just your friends, or people off a facebook clothes swapping group. Here are some tips on how swapping parties work. In my town someone started a Facebook group of local users of a popular clothes selling/swapping site, and we take turns in hosting swap parties. The people mostly don't know each other, but since everyone is interested in clothes and in swapping, it usually works really well.

     But there are no swapping parties or thrift shops in my town, you might say. There were almost none in mine either. I hosted my clothing swap parties back before they were a thing. Luckily thrifting and swapping is "in" now and in the last years swap parties have been mushrooming -- including some really big ones! 

   A culture of reusing, sharing and swapping takes time to grow, and someone has to start. Why not you? Sometimes there is a stigma attached to second-hand -- as if you're supposed to be able to afford to buy everything new, it's a sign of doing well in life. I see this in the middle-age Germans. The younger people are more likely to be concerned with the ethical and environmental impact of this attitude, and more open to buying used (the openness is often strongly encouraged by the limited budget). I think that talking about owning pre-owned stuff normalises it. My friends feel comfortable giving me clothes because I usually mention that what I'm wearing is second-hand when I'm complimented on it.

   So, that's all from me. I'd love to know how you feel like about shopping second hand? What are your best tips?

Living With The Rhythm Of The Seasons

with the seasons is one of the things that has grounded me. I was not a huge fan of anything but summer and innerly resisted the entire eight months that I find way too cold. I still have a very hard time adjusting to the darkness in the winter. But in the past few years something has shifted. It had something to do with the way the school and kindergarden of my kids follows the rhythms of the changing seasons, and celebrates the bigger and smaller festivals. The rhythm pulled me in. And Id found it to be a very calming and reassuring one. It gives me an overview of the year, it starts looking more like a circle and less like an never-ending line.

Whether I want to or not, the clearly defined seasons of central Europe dictate a lot about how I spend my day. In places where it's summer all year long life seems somehow a bit more endless. Then there is south Asia with it's six seasons that flow imperceptibly into one-another (except the monsoon, with it's wildness). Here, the seasons switch in a matter of a few days. It was still summer last Sunday, today clearly autumn is here. Winter will arrive abruptly too, with it's biting cold.

Summer is easy. Summer is so vibrant that it carries me with it. I bike everywhere, have endless energy. We just need to slip on our shoes when we want to go outside, the city is full of festivals and concerts and street musicians, my garden bursts with flowers and berries, when it's too hot we walk barefoot in a fountain in the city square. At the end of summer I realise that maybe today is the last day in a long while that I'll be lying in my garden without a jacket, that there is so much that I have to put away. Till May. It makes me feel that life is slipping away in a sense.

After a couple of years of struggling with this, I have learned that going with the current can be a beautiful thing. Instead of shutting myself away from the changes, I choose to live them. Through the small things in everyday life. Eating things that are in season for just a short while. Wild mushrooms, corn, strawberries, asparagus. Through scents. Decorating my home with things from outside, be it fresh flowers or pine cones. Or things we make, if the outside doesn't have much to offer at the moment. Through fresh flowers in the summer and candles in the winter.

Here is what my seasons look like:

Autumn:

Picking mushrooms, spicy teas, boiled corn, picking up unfinished crocheting projects from last winter, collecting Hawthorne berries, incense, collections of pine cones and acorns and chestnuts, pumpkin soup, lantern at St Martin's, raking golden leaves, bumping into hedgehogs at night, pickling vegetables, using perfume again.

Winter:

Wool, warming salves, crocheting, sauna, snowball fights, big warm scarves, thrifting handmade woolen socks, very strong ginger tea, folding stars for the windows, skin oils, singing carols, soups, the crunch snow makes when you walk on it, sparkly snow under lanterns at night, hot Glühwein, oranges, browsing at Christmas markets, bringing out handmade Christmas ornaments from past years, votives in the middle of my crystal collection, baking, having someone else bake something for me, Baumkuchen and Lebkuchen.

Spring: 

Light green, birds nest as decor, rubber boots, smoothies, ponchos, asparagus with potatoes, the first regional strawberries, making bunnies out of felt, feathers, spotting birds and squirrels among the (yet) leafless trees, buying a hyacinth for the kitchen window, the first ice cream of the year, first caterpillars and first butterflies of the year, Fasching party with my friends, yellow, getting my biannual haircut, the scent of lilac.

Summer:

Fresh herbs, bicycling, crumpled linen, water kefir, simple dresses, a bag with my bikini and a scarf always in my bicycle bag, meeting friends outdoors, fresh aloe vera gel, the scent of skin when it's been warmed by the sun, painting my toenails, browsing through flea markets, peonies, shells on the windowsill, fresh lettuce from a friend's garden, very long bicycle rides, hats, cold cider, pottering around in the garden.

Image via Sylwia Barytzel

Three Things To Consider Before Getting Breast Augumentation

I am pretty open when it comes to getting breast lifts or implants. However today I want to talk about a couple of things that you should seriously think about if you are seriously considering getting breast surgery.

Have you tried wearing a perfectly fitted bra?

Several women wrote to me and said that after discovering my blog they did not need or want breast surgery any more. Finally wearing a bra that fitted them perfectly not only relieved them of shoulder and back pain, but made clothes fit better and their figure look more proportional. When the breasts stopped being a source of discomfort and frustration, most women felt that their feelings towards their breasts changed, and they began to accept and even like them. It also helped to realise that their bra size was normal. Previously regular lingerie stores that didn't carry their size made them feel like mutants (if you have trouble understanding this, imagine you needed a shoe size than no shoe store in your town carries).

Since roughly 80% of women wear the wrong size, chances that you, dear reader (especially if you have just stumbled onto this blog) are not wearing a perfectly fitting bra, are pretty high. To see all the basics on bra fitting, check out the Bra Matrix tab on top of the page. Chances are that issues like back pain will go away once you try a bra that does it's job.

How do you feel about your body, in general?

Consider these two real scenarios for a moment:

Scenario one: a woman is unhappy about her belly fat, she feels ugly. She decides to lose weight and work out, and after months of hard work she loses most of the excess fat and has a trim athletic figure. However instead of being happy about her body and celebrating her success, she now obsesses about the cellulite on her thighs. She feels ugly and unhappy. This is a common scenario. It's also the reason why people get "addicted" to plastic surgery, always wanting to get the next thing "done". They dislike their body and don't feel happy in it, and at the root of this usually are deeper issues. This hate and unhappiness gets focused on one body part, so when this body part is "fixed" but the deeper issues remain unresolved, the hate just finds a new scapegoat.

Second scenario: in the book Psycho Cybernetics, the cosmetic surgeon Maxwell Malz was really bewildered by this: many of his patients got plastic surgery to fix scars and other physical flaws, yet after the surgery they complained that the didn't look any different. They still felt as ugly and disfigured as they felt before. Malz realised that although their exterior was improved, their self-image remained the same. And this self image was so powerful that even a dramatic cosmetic surgery could not change it. (The book is amazing, everyone should absolutely read it).

If you feel that you have strong issues about body image, you should really consider seeing a professional about it -- even if you do plan on going through with the breast enhancement (or other cosmetic surgery). At least it will help you get the best out of your surgery.

It might seem to us that if only our body way X instead of Y we'd feel beautiful and happy, but in practice fixing the body part will not change our ingrained attitude towards our body.

Finding correctly fitting bras after surgery can be a challenge

This is something a lot of women don't realise before getting them. Of course there are tons of different kinds of breasts procedures out there, but especially implants make it more difficult to find a correctly fitting bra. There seem to be a lot of "bra for women with implants" companies popping up, however in practice it's not so simple. Implants can be so different and there is no one fits-all-implants bra style out there. Secondly the size range of such companies is usually very limited.
Obviously in the big scheme of things bra shopping might not be your biggest problem, but in case a big reason for getting a boob job is: "I can just waltz into any lingerie store and buy cure bras", it might not work like that.

I mean to write a couple of posts about bra fitting for implants. Stay tuned!

Photo credit: Gabriel Nunes via Unsplash

Face Massage And Exercises To Slow Aging

My whole understanding of wrinkles was turned upside down when in a pub one night an older acquaintance showed me ampoules of what is known as "botox in a jar". Me and my friends tried them out on the lines around the eyes. After a few minutes we felt a tingling and a numbness. The whole eye area suddenly was smoothed out, the lines and valleys all looked as if someone had ironed them. The ingredient responsible for this was Argireline, a muscle relaxant.

This was mind-boggling for me. I had thought that botox worked because it paralysed the muscles which stopped you from continually creasing the skin (kind of like when you don't sit down to prevent linen pants from creasing). I thought that the repeated creasing somehow made the creases permanent. But here I experienced how lines and valley were smoothed out in a matter of a few minutes. I realised that the lines and creases were caused some kind of tightness and tension in the deeper layers.

Now I understand that the skin is a corset that keeps everything in place, rather it is just the thinnest layer on top of many other layers -- fat, muscles and connective tissue. Aging happens to all the layers -- even the skull changes shape as we grow older. Fat layers slide lower as we age. Certain groups of muscles become weak and droop, for example the nasolabial fold gets longer as we age, making the lips look thinner. Certain muscles become permanently contracted, for example the muscles between the eyebrows, which leads to drooping eyelids (you can test this at home). Also the lymphatic system does not work as efficiently as it used to, making the face puffy.

So what does all of this mean, practically? The best way to help your face stay in good shape as you age is working with all of the tissues, and not just the surface. There are a couple of ways to do this, by massaging and exercising the facial muscles. These methods are extremely popular in east Asia and other partis of the world. I remember an Iranian neighbour showing me a simple one when I was a kid.

As long as you are using a face oil or lotion for slip, you will not stretch your skin. It also stimulates the blood flow to the skin, so you might see improvement in colour and tautness.

Here are a couple of methods that I know of, you can find more instructions on the internet:

Tanaka face massage:

The Tanaka face massage is lifting as well as gently draining. It is really great for those who have issues with puffiness and fat in the face. However it is strongly slimming, so should be avoided by those who have issues with a thin or "hollow" face. This massage was invented by a Japanese makeup artist.

Facial Yoga

 Yoga has a deep understanding of not just muscles but the lymphatic system. I really wish regular Yoga classes incorporated a couple of minutes of face yoga. Also notice how she glows -- yoga does that to you.

Facercise

An oldie but a goodie. The biggest strength of Carole Maggio's facercise is that the exercises are very specific -- for example you can shorten your nose, or you can choose between widening or slimming the face. Don't let the 80s vibe put you off, the exercises are really effective.

Face rollers

These are an alternative to massaging by hand. These are really fun and relaxing. I own a jade roller like the on in the video, I got a really cheap one from Ebay and it's nice even though it's not perfectly oval and it's doctored jade. I feel that my fingers are a much more versatile tool than a roller, still I enjoy a the coolness of the roller. Also it's really great for puffy eyes.

Another variation of the roller is the Y-shaped roller which is great for slimming the lower face.

Finally there is the traditional Chinese gua-sha tools, which I'd really love to try out one day. From what I have gathered using them takes practice and an understanding of the the face, and is extremely effective when doe right.

Whereas a simple jade roller can be done by just about anybody.

Other methods:

 Then there are tons of other methods out there. I really would like to encourage you to try ones that look interesting.

When I feel my forehead tensing up, I do these massages to release the glabellar muscles. I already have hooded eyes, so I do my best to prevent any further drooping.

I especially like massaging the sides of the neck, it feels heavenly, probably because I have some lymphatic issues there:

This is a very simple technique for puffy eyes:

I suggest that you pick a video and try the techniques for a week or two. Later on you can mix and match techniques that suit you best. I like to massage my face when watching a movie or in the shower, it's so relaxing. If you are really in a rush, try doing the yoga lion face -- stick your tongue out, widen your eyes, activate each and every muscle of your face and neck, and try to hold for one minute!

Do you massage your face? What is your favourite technique? Do you own any massaging rollers or other tools?

A Well-Fitted Bra Can Make You Optically Slimmer

   When women switches a badly fitting bra to one in her correct bra size, a very common reaction they get is along the lies of "wow, you look slimmer" or "have you lost weight?" or "your waist looks more defined". A correctly-fitted bra can change the entire silhouette, taking it from shapeless to defined.

  This is how that works:

   In a badly-fitting bra the band is too loose and not supportive, making the breasts flop over and below the band. I tried to show it in the little schematic drawing below. The difference here is just the fit, when I say a "supportive bra" or band I don't mean a special high-tech bra or a sports bra, just a regular bra but in the correct size. So the drawings could represent the same bra model, once in the wrong size and once in the right size.

    When the badly-supported breasts flop over like the drawing on the right, they optically merge with the belly and create a general impression of a heavy midsection. (You might also notice that with a loose band the point of contact between breast and ribcage below is big, and this often leads to chafing. And to clothes not fitting right.) But when the breasts are lifted with a snug supportive band, they reveal what is often the slimmest part of the torso -- the ribcage just below the breasts.
     This is not just true for bigger-busted ladies. I am small-busted but quite short-waisted (here is how to calculate that), and my waist isn't very defined. This means that if my breasts weren't lifted, I wouldn't have much waist at all (see my metamorphosis photos).

   Breasts that sit higher also draw the eye upwards and make the whole figure look perkier and more youthful. Sag gives a tired look to the figure, and also drags down the fabric of clothes, creating unflattering lines.
   Also, a well-fitting bra smooths out the figure by dealing with armpit and back rolls. Yes, I said back rolls. Here is an interesting post about how a tighter band can minimise back fat (see how the looser band of the white bra digs into the back much more than that of the snugger black bra). Sounds counter-intuitive but actually isn't.

There is another reason why well-fitting bras improve the figure:
   A typical woman's reaction to an unsupportive bra is to tighten the straps, hoping to lift the cups that way. The straps only pull the back of the band even higher, and the front droops even more. A see-saw effect if you will. The straps start either chafing or slipping off (usually both) and often the woman ends up hunching her shoulders to avoid that.
    In a well-fitted bra the snug band carries most of the weight of the breasts and stays in place, so the straps stop being a bother. There is no more tension on the shoulders. And women unconsciously stand straighter when they feel they have a bra that lifts and supports.

     If you are new to the site, you will find the measuring guide and all the basics here.

Rye Flour Hair Cleanser DIY

Rye flour "shampoo" is the easiest and gentlest DIY cleanser for the hair that I have tried so far. It has just one ingredient so it's really fast and easy to make. The starch is a mild emulgator and pretty effective in cleansing the hair. Most dry shampoos are based on starch! Rye also contains proteins, vitamin E and several B vitamins, and so it's also a hair mask. It also happens to be pH neutral unlike baking soda which is pretty harsh. It's also highly recommended for anyone with a sensitive scalp.

It is very gentle on the skin and after using it for a while your scalp will produce less oil. It keeps my hair fresh for several days between washings. It also gives me quite a bit of volume and texture. My hair feels very clean and soft. Interestingly most people say that the rye flour wash makes their hair very silky and smooth. In my case (my hair already has a coarser texture mainly because of all the greys and a fresh layer of henna) my hair doesn't look silky, however it is much softer to the touch and detangles easily.

Your mileage way vary, the results will depend on your hair type and on your previous hair care regime.

You need to use rye flour because other flours contain a lot of gluten which is very gluey. If your hair is thicker or curly, use full-grain rye. If your hair is fine, try a lighter (finer grind) rye flour, in Germany that would be type 1150.
Chickpea flour is also gluten free and has been traditionally used to clean the skin and hair in many cultures, but it has a weird smell. Rice flour is also an option, especially if you are histamine intolerant.

Rye shampoo recipe:

You'll need:
Rye flour 4 tablespoons (shoulder-length hair)
250 ml lukewarm water, enough to make it into a runny paste.

Mix really well and let is stand. The longer it stands, the more of the beneficial vitamins get released. However the longer the starch soaks up the water, the less fat and dirt it will absorb. 
In the beginning you might want to let the mixture stand for no more than 10 minutes, which will give you a paste that easily removes dirt and oiliness and product build-up from your hair. Over time you can try letting the mixture stand for several hours or even over night, then it works like a nourishing masque with mild cleansing properties.

The mixture can be stored in a fridge for a day or two, longer than that it turns into sourdough. You can use the rest of the mixture for cleaning the kitchen sink or the dishes, basically it's a great cleanser for anything greasy. Or you can make a bigger batch, freeze the rest in cubes and thaw when needed.

How to use the rye flour hair wash:

Apply on the scalp and massage it in. Apply generously on the hair, but do not rub. Leave it in for 5 minutes, during the time you can use the rest of the paste as a body cleanser. It leaves behind a nicely silky skin.
Rinse out very very thoroughly and turn on your shower head to full strength. Take your time with this step. Don't forget to clean behind the ears!
This mix will not block your bathroom pipes as the flour does not contain gluten and dissolves very quickly. 

Depending on your hair type you may or may not need to use a conditioner after the rye shampoo. I'd recommend going without the first time, so that you can see what effect the rye shampoo has on your hair.

If you have hard water, it makes sense to do an acidic rinse once a month (1/5 liter water + 1 teaspoon vinegar or lemon juice).

If you find that after your hair dries some hulls are still on your hair, shake or comb them out. Next time try a finer kind of rye flour, or sieve the flour before use, and mix a runnier paste. The hulls are noticeable on darker hair. Another option would be to try washing your hair with rye tea -- you mix he rye with more water, let it stand, and then strain it. They you use the liquid to clean the hair.

 In the next post I'll be talking about tweaking the rye flour shampoo to your hair needs.

Have you tried rye flour to cleanse your hair? Or any other no-poo methods?

How Often Should You Cleanse And Scrub?

I think that there is still quite a lot of misinformation about cleansing. Women either don't cleanse regularly, or they completely overdo it -- especially if they have oily skin or breakouts. When you cleanse the skin, what are you actually cleaning off? Dirt from the environment, makeup, sebum and dead skin cells.

However cleansing your face also strips the skin of its protective oils and can disturb its pH level (if the cleanser is not pH neutral). This makes the skin more susceptible to bacteria and other problems. It can also make the skin produce even more oils. Also certain cleansing chemicals (especially sulfates) can irritate the skin. Many scrubs contain grits that are too harsh.

So how often is it ok to cleanse and scrub?

Cleansing your face thoroughly in the evening is something you should never skip. If you wear makeup or sunscreen you need to make sure you clean it off properly, usually in a separate step. I like to use oil to remove sunscreen and makeup, then clean that off with a gel cleanser. Or just do it all in one step with a Micellar cleanser. People usually cleanse their face before going to bed, but sometimes I like to cleanse as soon as I get home in the evening.
    In the morning you usually need to just wash your face with water or wipe it with a toner, unless your skin is especially oily. Our faces don't get dirty while sleeping.

And exfoliating ? Scrubs should not be used more often than twice a week. You can use the very gentle methods of exfoliation like Konjac sponges or Gommage. Facial brushes like Clairsonic have become very popular, but in my opinion lots of women overdo it, not realising that they are exfoliating rather than just cleansing. Use not more often than every other day, use a gentle brush and don't combine it with any other form of exfoliating, whether physical or chemical.
Always be gentle while exfoliating. Your skin is not the bathroom floor.

On the photo above you can see my current collection of cleaners and exfoliators. The only thing missing is my microfiber cloth.

What is your cleansing and exfoliating schedule like?