Bra straps slipping off ? It's might be the fault of the band.

Some time back I got a mail about the problem of bra straps that continually slip off the shoulder. Not only this is uncomfortable, there are plenty occasions and places where bra straps can look immodest or unprofessional.

Half the time it is the wrong bra size that´s causing the slipping straps. When the band is too loose, it rides up at the back. This releases the tension that used to be in the straps,now the straps are too loose and they slip off the shoulders. When this happens, the woman usually tightens the bra straps. Then the bra straps pull the band, making it ride up even more at the back !

   A snug bra band will stay in place and not move up the slightest bit. It will keep the straps in the place where they´re supposed to be. So before you look for bra strap holders, check whether the band is too loose.

Solutions to bra strap problems:

* Check if you´re wearing the right size. 

   Please start here. Pull the band away from your chest. If you can fit 2 fingers inside, the band is ok. If you can fit a whole palm inside, it´s too loose. Check your size with this calculator. For questions & concerns about snug bands, read Do you wear panties that are wider than your hips ?

* Check the bra strap placement

   If you´re wearing the right size and the straps are slipping off because you have narrow and / or sloping shoulders, you need to look for bras that have the straps closer together.  Balconettes usually have the bra straps very far apart (though you might find some with the straps attached to the center of the cups); full cups have them spaced closer together. Half-cups fall somewhere in the middle, with the strap spacing varying from model to model.

* Check bra strap length

   Some bras have straps that can´t be regulated much. This is a problem for petites and women with breasts very high on the ribcage. If this is the case, always check the straps before you buy (and remember, they stretch a bit after washing). If you know the basics of sewing, it´s not hard to adjust them.

* Get a bra strap holder

   These little things pull the straps together at the back. If you can´t find them anywhere near you, try online (also Ebay). I´m guessing it´s not hard to DIY this. The reason this tip is on the bottom is that half of the slipping straps problems are solved simply by getting the correct size, so don´t ignore the part where I talk about the bra band ! Secondly I don´t know how comfortable the bra strap holders are for everyday wear, and besides that they would make the bra straps very visible under anything with a scooped back or spaghetti straps. 

Photo via stupidsht, diagram by me    

How Moisturising Works: Humidity and Humectants

What is the connection between air humidity, dry lips and frizzy hair? Can oils moisturise? Why is glycerin drying? Why do you need to add emollients to your DIY cosmetics? 

I got the answers from the article Humidity, Humectants and Hair. Do read that article for a detailed explanation and this post for the short-and-skinny, plus some practical tips.

* How do cosmetics moisturise ?

Cosmetics don´t actually moisturise per se. They contain humectants that attract moisture from the surroundings and / or emollients and occlusives which seal in / seal out moisture.

* What are humectants ?

They are the moisturising agents in hair and skin products. They are hygroscopic, which means they attract water and bind it to the skin. Eg: glycerin, honey, panthenol, propylene glycol, urea, lactic acid, sodium lactate, sodium hialuronate, aloe vera, hyaluronan.

*  What effect does dew point have on humectants ?

Humectants work best in a medium humidity (dew point between 1.5 - 10°C).

In low humidity conditions (dew point below 1.5°C) humectants will pull moisture from the skin and hair, since the air is very dry. This way they are drying. If you don´t want your skin & hair to dry out, apply moisturisers other than humectants. Don´t dry the hair completely after washing. Styling products with humectants should be applied only after a leave-in conditioner.

In high-humidity conditions (dew point above 15.5°C) humectants can attract too much moisture. Hello frizz ! Use products with emollients which smooth the hair scales, not allowing moisture to get in.

* What´s dew point ?

Humidity of the air is measured by dew point. Many weather websites, like Wunderground, show the dew point in your town over the day.

* What do emollients do ?

Emollients a name for several different substances, their common characteristic is that they form a film over the hair / skin, protecting if from drying out and forming a barrier against the environment. In high humidity conditions they prevent the hair & skin from taking in too much moisture. 

Oils and waxes are emollients. That´s how olive oil or jojoba oil "moisturise": they actually prevent moisture loss. I don´t recommend mineral oil (aka paraffin), which forms an impermeable layer that doesn´t let oxygen or moisture through. Ditto goes for coconut oil. Silicones are also good emollients, as long as you choose the water-soluble ones and not the stubborn ones that need harsh detergents to wash off.

* Tuning your cosmetics: 

Take a peek at the dew-point levels and consider adding emollients as well as humectants to your concoctions. For me that usually means a dash of Jojoba oil which I love for it´s lightness.

Best Bra Deals Of The Moment

The best deals in online stores with a BIG size range !
These stores offer international shipping, and shipping to the US & Canada is actually very affordable (£6.95 from Brastop,

Brastop:
* D-K cups from £8: 32% off everything from Freya, 1£0 off Fantasie bras.
* Swimwear sale, up to 68% off
* If you buy for more than £25, the code SUNFIVE will give you an additional 5 Pounds off.

£6.95 shipping to US & Canada, £14.95 Worldwide.

Figleaves UK
* Lots of bras and knickers are discounted up to 20%.
* Check out their Outlet section for some really discounted stuff !
* With a set from Midnight Grace, you get extra briefs for free.
* Up to 50% discount for swimsuits. Freya, Panache and Fantasie, band sizes 28(60) to 42(95), cups AA to J.

£5.50 shipping worlwide

Figleaves US
* 20% off many bras & knickers
* Up to 15% off swimwear
* 25% off Figleaves Basics
* 25% off Figleaves D-G cups
* The Outlet Section has some great offers !
* ... aaaand more offers !

$4.95 shipping within the US

La Senza:
* Up to 50% off on select swimsuits (30A till 40G cup) some as low as 10£.
* £5 for bikini tops (30A till 40G cup) + 3£ for a matching bottom.
* Two Lucy Lace Bras for 25 pounds (32A till 40GG)
* Everyday Essentials bras for 10£ (30DD to 40GG)
* Rio reversible bras for 10£
* Many other offers on knickers, PJs and more.

Free shipping till $89 worth of stuff to Canada, $9.00 shipping to the US; expensive ($25 and more) shipping to the rest of the world.

Ewa Michalak:
* Discounted bikins (21€ for bikini tops)
* Bras start at 12€

Worldwide shipping for 6€. You can send your order in English by e-mail ( sklep@ewa-michalak.pl ) and don´t forget to sent them your measurements ! (the brand has their own sizing). 

Disclaimer: This post is not sponsored in any way. I wish it was. If by any chance anyone from there is reading this, I want these:

     

   

Left to right: Masqerade Minuet, Masquerade Tiffany, Masquerade Courtesan Plunge,  La Senza Precision Fit Lace,
 La Senza Sling Halter Vibrant Blue Bikini,Ewa Michalak Plunge Turkusowy Mech, Ewa Michalak Jeansowy Plunge, Ewa Michalak czerwony kostium.

Source: Promocje Stanikowe

Mineral Nail File From P2 Is Actually A Ruby File!

   Remember my rave about ruby nail files? Turns out I didn't have to order them from halfway around the world after all. I wandered into the DM Drogerie (a lovely drugstore with an ecological bend of mind) with a bit of extra time on my hands. And guess what was peeking at me from among the P2 nail products? A pink nail file, labeled "mineral". I inspected it and yes, it really was a ruby file.
     Now, I broke my old ruby file (that's the only downside to them -- they break when they fall) but I used it anyway, I love it that much. It allows me to file my nails back and forth (a big no-no with most other nail files) and I also use it on my cuticles: it works like a pumice, smoothing away jagged skin around the nails. Works way better than a cuticle trimmer (which I'm not very good at wielding, just so you know).
     The one from P2 is prettier than my old one (the photo above is flattering, but still), has a plastic handle meant to push back the cuticle (is this actually useful?) and set me back 2,25€.
     I know you might not have a DM around the corner unless you happen to live in Germany or Austria, but do poke around your neighbourhood drugstore -- it looks as ruby nail files are going mainstream so there are chances you might find one! Remember you heard about them here first ;)
   Oh, and if you ever do buy a ruby nail file, remember to clean it with a brush from time to time since the skin cells collecting between the crystal make it blunt.

   I just realised that the 8-year-old me would have been stoked to know some day I'll be filing my nails with rubies (albeit synthetic ones). I remember being excited about my dad's drill being diamond tipped!

How should the bra center gore lie on the sternum?

BTW you need to see it from the top.

The front of the bra should always lie flat against the chest.
Always.


   When the front does not touch the sternum but stays in the air, it means that the band is too big (and the cups are probably too small). The band is hanging on the breasts, and does not give the breasts any support. You´re just wearing a breast-cover.
   A band should lie flat against the chest, then it´s fitting the ribcage snugly and supporting the breasts from below. Remember that 90% of the support comes from the band, and only 10% from the straps !


   To calculate your correct band size, subtract 5 cm from the measurement under your chest, then round down to the nearest band size. You don´t add anything to the measurement, much less round up, since a band that is looser than your chest will never give any support to your breasts. And it will keep riding up at the back. Would you wear panties that are wider than your hips ?
Once you´re taking a narrower band size, remember to simultaneously get a bigger cup size, because cup size is relative to band size. Most of the "my band is too tight" complaints are actually caused by too small cups (or too narrow underwires).
  Check out the correct bra size calculator.

    

Top of the cup empty ? best bras for tear-shaped breasts

Breasts that are not full on the top ? Here is how to find a bra that doesn´t leave a gap at the top..

Women often think that empty space on the top of the cup is a sign that the cup is too big. But when rest of the cup fits perfectly and the next smaller cup size is clearly too small, then you have simply a bra model not compatible with tear-shaped breasts. So, which bra models are best for teardrop shaped breasts ?

 Yes to:

Balconette cups
But only those cut low. (I mean the top edge of the cup should not be very high. In other words, the bra cup should be rather skimpy).

YES:   NO: 

Half-cups
Especially those cut low in the front. The highest point of the cup (where it´s connected to the strap) should not be too high.

YES:   NO: 

Plunges
Oh yes. Some cleavage-enhancing plunges like the Freya Retro or Panache Inferno look like they´re highly built-up, but because of the shallowness of the cups and their specific shape, they usually work well on tear-shaped breasts and make a pretty cleavage.

YES:  YES: 

 No to:

Anything cut very high (giving a lot of coverage).
No "turtleneck bras".

Full cups.
Will never work on tear-shaped breasts.

NO: 

Disclaimer: The bras which on the photos may actually be deeper / shallower cut than pictured. Often bras that look very low-cut on tall models may look like a turtleneck bra on a more petite lady.

Click image for more explanations on cup styles.

Want specific models ?

Here are some models recommended by the Bra Lobby and some tried by yours truly. Feel free to use them just as a reference. And check out Balkonetka´s Bra Catalogue for real-life photos of bras.

• Pour Moi: Provence underwired (not the fullcup)
• Most bras from Elle Macpherson, especially Coranto and Casablanca
• Gossard: Eva Underwired Balcony Bra
• Freya: Millie halfcup and Eva
• La Senza: Georgia (take one cup bigger). Actually, most bras from La Senza
• Cleo: Bobbie, Charlie and Robyn
• Fayreform: Frosted
• Panache: Harmony, Robyn, Tango (not Tango II), Venus balconette
• Fantasie: Helena
• Kalyani: Shape Me 
• Ruby Pink: Ophelia and George
• Most bras from Discover Mademoiselle
• Masquerade: Luna, Maia, Antoinette bandeau

Interestingly, breasts implants are available in both round and tear-shaped models. Which should dispel the myth that teardrop shapes are somehow imperfect.

Photo by Celinaaa    

Ruby Stone Crystal Nail File For Problem Nails

My brittle and prone-to-snagging nails love this, and I never get ragged cuticles anymore.

   Recently introduced to the world of "doing your nails"*, I made it my mission to find The Best Thing to file nails and to cut cuticles. I never expected to be using the same product for both tasks !

   I dug for information on glass files, cuticle trimmers, and finally stone cuticle erasers. That´s when I found mentions of Ruby Stone crystal nail files, which seem to be a well-kept beauty secret.

Ruby Stone files are nail files and cuticle erasers in one. 

    As a file, the Ruby Stone is very smooth and doesn´t fray or tear fragile nails. The file is made of synthetic ruby, very hard (9.5 on the hardness scale, 10 being diamond) and the grains are very very fine. Apparently, these fine sharp crystals cut the nails and cuticles instead of tearing them. I tried glass files and seen how much smoother they are in comparison to typical emery boards, well, the ruby files are another big step in smoothness. They won´t give you snags or make your nails peel, and you can file back and forth (Which you should never do with normal emery boards). You can also use them on acrylic nails.

    As a cuticle eraser, the Ruby Stone acts like a tiny pumice stone for the cuticles. After cutting away any thick cuticle parts, I use the rounded tip of the Ruby Stone to push back the cuticles and rub them in a kindazig-zag motion. As if I was erasing them. I like to wet my Ruby stone when I do this, it makes everything smoother.  I finish by wiping the area with a wet microfibre cloth, and follow it up with my beeswax cuticle conditioner. The result ? My cuticles grow back smooth, not ragged. The first time I had my cuticles done with a cuticle cutter, they grew back horridly ragged. The girl had warned me: once I started cutting them, I´ll have to keep on cutting them for the rest on my life. Ack. I don´t want to be a slave to my cuticles ! Anyway, when I erase them with the ruby stone and finish with the microfibre cloth, they stay smooth. I can do them again at my own leisure.

    And the best part ? Like almost all of my fab beauty finds, this one is ridiculously affordable, it comes for around 2$ on Amazon. I got mine on Ebay. There is also the variety with a groove (for long nails), called "Ruby Crystal Ceramic Stone Nail File" which looks like this, but I think that 19$ is a lot to pay for the groove...

    The file is advertised never getting dull, but I have seen complaints about the file getting dull with time, I discovered that it is the dead skin and nail cells that settle down between the crystals. When that happens, clean the file with soap and an old toothbrush, and it´s good as new. 

Minus points ?

* Ugly, at least the plastic holder thingy at the edge. The glass files are way prettier !

* It takes longer to file the nails. I use the nail scissors, cuticle trimmers and the glass file if there is any quick rough work to be done. The Ruby Stone for the final smoothing.

* They break. Mine fell on the floor and neatly broke in two pieces 

   Comparing to a glass file, I´d say that glass is softer but the grains are coarser. The ruby is very hard but very fine. I use glass files if I want to saw down my nail fast, and I´d use it if I had really thick nails. And of course I wouldn´t let the glass anywhere near my cuticles. If you are still using metal files or ordinary emery boards, I recommend at least switching to glass files. They are way kinder to the nails. Oh, and here is another Ruby Stone nail file fan, if you need more convincing.

* In Germany getting your nails done is pretty expensive, so the thrifty do their own.

Balkonetka's Bra Catalogue: real photos of well-fitted bras on real breasts

Photos on online stores are really inadequate when it comes to choosing bras. Every wanted to see real photos on real girls (not photoshopped tall models, who make everything look different). Ever wondered whether the bra is as transparent as on the shop´s photo ? As pretty ? As deep cut ? As bright-coloured ? How would it look on breasts of a different size or shape ?

   I was thrilled that the Balkonetka Blog has started a Bra Database. Every bra is photographed on it´s owner, who then adds observations about the cup size, underwires and general comfort. These comments are much more detailed and useful than those of the Bratabase. You can browse the site by brand, size and type.
   The database is created by correctly fitted girls, with insightful comments about the fit and cut of the bras. When the bra doesn´t fit right, the reason is explained (wrong size, cut or simply an incompatible model). Every bra is analysed, and there is no such thing as a bad bra, there is only the incompatible bra.

This is what you get in a typical bra store:

a slouched, photoshopped model with distracting hair (not to mention the too small cups which misleadingly make the bra appear to be a push-up...)

This is what you get at the Balkonetka Bra Catalog: 

not so picture-perfect, but way more useful to the buyer.

 

You also get to see the same bra model in different colours and sizes:

            

Panache Superbra Ariza in 28DD and 75J

    The downside for you guys is that the site is in Polish, and Google translation gives a funny potpourri of normal and weird sentences. The good side is that you still get a lot of useful information on the bra models. You see what are the measurements and even the height of the owner, the stretchiness of the band (translated as "Elongation circuit", sheesh Google !) at rest and when stretched. Some of the comments are readable.
UPDATE:

UPDATE:

Balkonetka Catalogue photos are now displayed only to logged-in users. However, it takes just seconds to register, with the help of Google Translate. It´s totally worth it, I promise !

I recommend the you take a look at the Catalogue, if only for the photos. Hopefully it will keep growing as fast as it´s growing now !