Reader Question: My Bra Strap Pinching The Brachial Nerve On My Shoulder!

A while back Irene, a reader from Ottawa with severe scoliosis wrote in with this problem:

For the post few years I have relied primarily on extenders -- an elastic piece with hooks and receptors which is attached to the bra back.  But the same problem of the straps being moved so far over that they fall off.   I remedied this by attaching a thin elastic between the straps to keep them loosely taut.  However, I find that one strap presses on my brachial nerve, causing pain in the shoulder and arm area. This also happens with racer back and cross-backed bras.
 I can only wear the bra on “out” days.  Otherwise I go braless and wear seasonal vests for cover.
I have also tried sticky bras, but at my age, 74, droop makes this unattractive.  Strapless bras work for short periods, but the underwires do dig in.
I had a lumpectomy 18 years ago and use a variety of padding, depending on what bra I’m wearing .
Would be great if someone invented a “better mousetrap” for this problem.

Spanish Reader Question: Ewa Michalak Sizing, Band Altering + Bras For The Tight Budget

Hi!

My name is Carmen, and I recently found out I haven't been wearing the right bra size. I measured myself correctly, and ended up with a UK 32G size. I live in Spain. I wanted to try any Ewa Michalak bras, and that's what the question is about.

What size should I get, 70H or 70HH? I'm kinda scared of getting the wrong size and having to return it, since I barely have any money. I also don't want to risk buying on ebay, since I've had really bad experiences buying there before.

Would you recommend any brand in particular that's good but not expensive?

And would you recommend any tutorials for altering bands (making them smaller, from a size 36 and 38 to a 32)? I have a few bras that size with big cups, that I got at a sale, and thought I could use them if I can alter them.

For now, I am wearing a 34F bra, since it's the only one I could find close to my size that I could afford, and when I'm at home I don't wear one, so that bra can rest, and that way I don't have to use any of my old ill-fitting bras or bralettes.

Hello Carmen

When it comes to cup size, I always say that when in doubt get the bigger cups and the smaller band. First, chances are that when you wear the right size then all the migrated tissue will get back to the breasts and you will go up a cu size. Secondly, while a slightly too big cup only looks a bit off, one that is too small will cause breast tissue migration (armpit rolls and the like).

If you want to see how a specific Ewa Michalak bra fits, I suggest going to Bratabase, where users post exact measurements, photos and reviews on bra models in their size.

Figleaves' own bra brand of the same name is very affordable, and the entire site often has great discounts. If you keep a lookout on promotions (end-of-season sales, discounts for holidays like Valentines Day or Black Friday, you can save quite a lot of money.

If you have  TJMaxx or another outlet store in your area, I suggest taking a look there. The one in my city sells bras from the UK and I've seen really nice bras in "unusual" sizes for 5-10€. Also look for bra-fitting forums or facebook groups -- the members often sell or swap bras. I also highly recommend RandomActsOfBras to anyone struggling to afford a bra.

It is not so difficult to alter a bra band. Here are two tutorials of mine. Both work without cutting the band which would lead to the shape of the underwire changing:

The simple tutorial

The elastic tutorial

That´s all from me, over to you -- do you have tips for Carmen? Anyone from Spain out there?

Photo credit:

Photo by Pablo Heimplatz on Unsplash

How To Convert Your Bras For All Kinds Of Difficult Tops: Strapless, Low-back, Bandeau, etc

I thought I knew all about convertible bra straps, but this lady takes it to another level. She covers backless dress, strapless, racerback, one shoulder, plunge neckline, halter top, bandeau and more. Especially what she doesat the 8-minute mark is seriously genius.

You can get the removable straps pretty cheap on Ebay. Or make one yourself.

Choosing Well-Fitting Bras For Scoliosis {Reader Question}

   Scoliosis and other issues with spine curvature can make bra fitting quite tricky. Here are some tips and solutions from lovely reader Lianda from the US (San Diego) who sent in this question:

"I am having a terrible problem. I am the most a size B, probably closer to a size A. My band size from the loose measurement is 45” including my breasts. Under my breasts is 40”.
But I also have scoliosis and have to wear a bra that has racer back or I’m constantly pulling my straps up. AND to make matters worse, any large banded bra has cups that are too wide apart for the front of my body. So if I even used silicon pads, the cups would practically be partially under my arms!  And the wires go up so high on my chest that they cut into my armpits even at a size 40!
In clothes, or in sports bras an XXL will create this problem- it fits around my back but the cups are too wide apart. I wear size XXL.
This is one of the biggest problems in my life- I know that sounds crazy! But a lot of the time I go without a bra- and then look totally unbalanced because of my big belly! I probably SHOULD wear a bra with padding, or get pads to put into the bra to give me a more balanced look. Despite my weight, I’m very physically active (play tennis, yoga) and need to feel comfortable.
I have a feeling I’m going to need a custom made bra."


   Hello Lianda
    That doesn't sound crazy at all, a badly fitting bra can be really distracting, almost as bad as a shoe that pinches!

   Cups that are too wide apart are a common problem in bigger sizes. Many brands still use the scale-to-size method when making bras with cups in different sizes. This totally doesn't work, bras with bigger cups have to be constructed from scratch. I have written a bit more about this problem here, and mentioned some brands that make bigger cups that actually fit real women.

   You have a 5 inch difference between your underbust and your bust measurement, which would put you in to a 40DD cup (each inch is a cup size). Of course these sizes are just starting points so feel free to try slightly bigger and smaller cup sizes too.
   If the band size 40 is too tight because of the scoliosis, try a bigger band size but the same cup size. When you go up a band size, you must go down a cup size because cup size is relative to band size.
   Fitting yourself for a bra can be a bit tricky with scoliosis, but once you nail it it's really really worth it!

Bra recommendations:

  My first recommendation for anyone with scoliosis would be Braologie bras. The wide band with 4-hook closure is comfortable and stays put. The broad back distributes the band pressure over a bigger area and supports your back. And you also get a band extender, so you can try out different band sizes and see what feels best. Be sure to mention your scoliosis when you order.
   For sports I personally love the Panache Sport which has a clip to make the straps racer-back.

   I'd also recommend bras from Ewa Michalak. Their bands tend to be slightly snugger though, so you might want to size up. They make really well-constructed bras in bigger cup sizes. A couple of their models like the Onyx come with different types of straps.
  The Ewa Michalak Onyx has removable inserts -- you didn't mention asymmetry but I'm just throwing it out there, because I read that it can be an issue with scoliosis. You can put both asymmetry pads into one of the cups. Th pads go inside discreet little pockets.

    If you will be trying on bras in local stores, make sure to check out long-line bras.

Bra hacks for scoliosis:

   As wearing criss-cross straps is much more comfortable for those with scoliosis, buy racer-back clips which can turn any bra into a racer-back. Also, some bras also come with completely detachable straps, you can unhook them and then cross them at the back.
   In case of asymmetry, always fit your bra to the bigger boob, and tighten the straps slightly on the smaller side. For stronger asymmetry, I hear that women have had great results with mastectomy bra swim forms.
   If an otherwise well-fitting bra rubs a bit, try attaching moleskin to the problem area on the bra. You can buy it in most places where foot-care stuff is sold.

   Finally, I wanted to say that scoliosis is usually not so obvious to other people, nobody notices the disbalance in your posture as much as you do. So rock on! And keep us updated about your bra search, there are a lot of women out there who have similar fitting issues and would love to know what worked for you and what didn't.

 If any of you lovely readers have scoliosis, what would be your advice for Lianda? There is really very little info about it on the internet! Also, does anyone from the thereabouts from San Diego know if there are any good bra stores nearby?

PS if you have unusual fitting issues that have not been addressed on this blog yet, feel free to shoot me an email. Please provide as much detailed and organized information as possible, including correct measurements and country.

Photo credit: ScoliosisGirl

Armpit Fat: Scooping And Swooping Is Not Working

I got this in my inbox recently:

   "I have unsightly migrated breast tissue at my underarms and underneath them, as well as some on my back. This "swoop and scoop" method doesn't work for me. The tissue refuses to stay in my bra. I recently got my bra size measured at Victoria's Secret and got some, but something still doesn't feel right. What should I do? -- Sarah"

   This is a problem that many women have, so my answer is addressed not only to Sarah, but to everyone with armpit roll issues. If you are new here, first read about breast tissue migration and watch a nice demonstration of scooping and swooping here. Here are my suggestions for dealing with armpit fat:

Snugger band, bigger cups

   A Victoria's Secret fitting is not reliable -- the fitters get approximately 5 minutes of training (I know this from a real VS fitter), and they will fit you only into the sizes that the store carries. (This goes for most stores with a limited size range, btw). So, you might not be wearing the best size for you. I really recommend measuring yourself according to my  instructions.
   Scooping and swooping will not work if your band is too big and your cups are too small -- a mistake which almost all women I have fitted make. A cup big enough will ensure that the migrated tissue has somewhere to go to. An underwire that encircles the breast will keep the tissue in. And a snug band will not allow the tissue to escape from underneath the underwire. So it is very very important that you are wearing the right size bra!

Choose high underwires

   Are you wearing bras with underwires that go rather high up? These usually help. Look for plunge styles, many half-cups also have underwires that go up high under the armpit. The bras from Braologie are really great for migrated breast tissue. More recommendations here. If you are tall, you might need extra high underwires.

 Don't hate your Tail of Spence

    A little bit of loose tissue over there is normal. Any place that has soft tissue (as opposed to bone and pure muscle) will form rolls and creases.
   Migrated breast tissue is usually malleable, and might look like a big roll (or be spread all over the area). It can be scooped into the cup with your palms. Over time, it should migrate back to the breasts. If the tissue does not want to rejoin the breast in spite of scooping and swooping and high underwires, it is probably the axillary tail.
    I've also had a couple of friends who were quite unhappy about a very tiny roll they found near the armpits -- but a small roll is perfectly fine! Often it is appears only when the bra strap presses on the tissue in that area, or the edges of moulded cups. It is probably also cause by the fact that armpit creases in the media are heavily photoshopped: almost nobody has just one smooth crease over there. Here is a nice example. And here is a whole gallery that shows how Victoria's Secret Touches up armpits and other parts. The Photoshop also hides symptoms of the badly fitting bras. Here, the model is very skinny and has almost no rolls on creasing, still they retouched her to give her Barbie armpits:

via Debenhams, who at least is honest about the retouching

   Of course if you have a high percentage of body fat, the fat might be distributed evenly all over your body, including the back. I'm talking here about the proportions of muscle to fat, not about whether someone is skinny or fat (a person that weighs less might have very few muscles as compared to fat).

    When looking at anatomy pictures I think that training the lats (Latissimus Dorsi muscles) might make things firmer and smoother under the area. But I'm no fitness expert. (If you are, please chime in!)

   Another thing that comes to mind is a blockage in the lymphatic system. The lymph nodes in the armpit drain lymph from the entire upper abdomen, which is incidentally why antiperspirants are bad for you. You might want to look up lymph drainage massage that you can do at home. Dry brushing your upper torso  in movements towards your armpits is a good start.

    Over to you. What are your experiences with migrated tissue and fat in the armpit and back? And advice for Sarah?

Horizontal Oval Shallow Breasts (With Very Broad Roots)

I got this in my inbox:

   "I have a unique problem that I've never seen discussed on any bra blog. I have oval shaped breasts. By that I mean that my tissue isn't round like almost every other breast I've seen in bras. Thus, bras don't fit me! I just made a post on reddit about my latest shipment. Because of my shape every single bra except the lucky find at Wal-mart is too freaking tall. It seems like all bras are a circular shape when I'm not. The real pisser is that it seems like all the bras that would be perfect for me are not made in my size: 38E. I've done a few measurement checks on reddit before but here's the latest one."

   When I checked the photos, I realised that Emily is describing what I will now call horizontal oval shallow breasts. If you would draw a line around the breast, you would see that the base or root is wide, stretched out horizontally (sternum to armpit); and very short vertically. So the breast is much more broader than it is high. Most of the breast tissue is spread out and close to the ribcage, so there isn't much projection (depth).
   Horizontal oval shallow breasts are sometimes found on women with broad ribcages. Women who have undergone a breast reduction may get this kind of shape. Sometimes women with implants have this problem because of the implant shape.

   The horizontal oval shallow breasts that I have written about before are vertically shallow, they look like the one far right:

  Please forgive the expression and representation of a "regular" breast. I cannot think of a better name at the moment and I know that breasts don't actually look like round buns. I just want to show that the root is more or less circular, as opposed to the ovals of the other two kinds.
   I have written about vertically-shallow breasts here, if you are interested. These kind of breasts seem to start right under the ribcage, and doesn't have much projection.
  What would be a good name for such a breast shape? Any ideas? I´m using "Horizontal oval shallow breasts" right now, but am not sure if this is the best description.

Fitting issues for Horizontal Oval Shallow Breasts

   It is hard to find a good bra for such breasts. If the underwire goes around the breast, the cups are much too deep and the cups are half-empty. If the cups have the right depth, then the underwire is way too narrow and cuts off a portion of the breasts. This is because most bras are made for breasts that have a more or less round base.

Bra recommendations for horizontal oval shallow breasts

   Horizontal oval shallow breasts need cups that are shallow but wide. Preferably low-cut. I have got a couple of suggestions:

Fauve India
Panache Verona, Eliza, Inferno or it´s successor Zara
Some La Perla models
Curvy Kate Princess
Masquerade Tiffany
Discover Mademoiselle Clara Bow
La Senza Georgiana
Some Ultimo and Gossard models are also pretty shallow as well.

   Also, bras with flexible underwires could work really well for you. When the snug band pulls the underwires, the underwires become wider and the cups become shallower. This is probably why the Walmart bra worked so well. Some brands that I know of are:

Desire by Triumph, till cup G.
Bestform: only some models like Louisiana, Bilbao, Salina, Sofia
Lepel: Athena, the wire-less version
Cake Lingerie

Desire by Triumph, till cup G.

Bestform: only some models like Louisiana, Bilbao, Salina, Sofia

Lepel: Athena, the wire-less version
Cake Lingerie

- See more at: http://www.venusianglow.com/2011/10/when-even-well-fitted-underwires-hurt.html#sthash.613a4Rf9.dpuf

Desire by Triumph, till cup G.

Bestform: only some models like Louisiana, Bilbao, Salina, Sofia

Lepel: Athena, the wire-less version
Cake Lingerie

- See more at: http://www.venusianglow.com/2011/10/when-even-well-fitted-underwires-hurt.html#sthash.613a4Rf9.dpuf

Desire by Triumph, till cup G.

Bestform: only some models like Louisiana, Bilbao, Salina, Sofia

Lepel: Athena, the wire-less version
Cake Lingerie

- See more at: http://www.venusianglow.com/2011/10/when-even-well-fitted-underwires-hurt.html#sthash.613a4Rf9.dpuf

   You could also try stretching underwires to make a wider "U" (this makes the cup automatically shallower). Whether this works depends on the material of the underwires.

   If you have some skill in sewing, it is often possible to shorten too tall bra cups. Please don't ask me how since my sewing skills are basic, but I have heard on forums that women do it. Here is a small tutorial, hope you can understand it. If you know of a tutorial or would be interested in doing one for this blog, let me know!

 This list is by no means exhaustive, so if you have this kind of breast shape please let me know which bras work for you, in the comments. I'd also love to feature a metamorphosis post with this breast type.

How To Bend Uncomfortable Underwires: A Tutorial

   Underwires that poke the sternum is a common problem that can often be easily fixed. I have written a post on several ways of dealing with this. The most common way of fixing this problem is bending the underwires. When I was at the Brafitteria in Krakow, the bra-fitting lady showed me the right way to do this. She bent away the poking underwires of my Weismann Tamara so beautifully that they are amazingly comfortable now. (On that note, I added "where to buy" resources to that post, so go take a look!)

How to bend away underwires

   With one hand hold the bottom of the underwire to stabilise it, because you only want to bend the inner to and not the whole length. You can hold the underwire a bit closer to the center than I did on the photo (I was holding the camera between my knees to take this, and was paying not enough attention to proper hand placement. Yes, I know I need a proper tripod).
   With the other hand, bend the tip of the underwide away (towards the outside of the bra). Bend very lightly, then try the bra on. You might have to bend and then try on several times before you get it right. Resist the urge to bend strongly the first time, since it is easy to overdo it and distort the fit of the entire length of the underwire and very hard to bend back.
    You also need to watch out for the flexibility of the underwire. Underwires are made of different mixes of metals, some might be flexible and some not, some might bend easily while others bounce back. That is why you need to bend very lightly, then try on, rinse and repeat as needed.

   If the underwire is really stubborn, you might have to use the edge of the table: place the inner end of the underwire flat on the table and push down with the thumb. With the other hand (that would be the right one if you are holding the bra like in this photo) lift the rest of the underwire up. Obviously this is just one way of doing it, many of you might have developed your own techniques.

   Have you ever tried bending the underwires of your bras? How do you do it? Do let me know on which bras did it work and with which it didn`t.

Examples Of Shallow Breasts (NSFW)

   Shallow breasts is a loose term for breasts that have a broad base but not much projection.These breasts bring certain fitting challenges, especially if you have no idea that your breast shape is shallow and you wonder why nothing seems to fit. Here I would like to show you what shallow breasts look like.    A huge thanks to the women who have contributed these photos!
    I have explained this breast shape in detail in this post. Here is a graphic to refresh your memory:

   A reminder: shallow breasts is a loose term, and as you see here shallow breasts come in many different variations! Many of the ladies here haven't found their perfect bra yet. You can see the examples of the typical fit problems that hint at a shallow breast shape. The bra types that work best for this shape are those with shallow cups, open at the top. 

Bust A: 

Underbust 30.5" Bust 34"
Victoria's Secret 32C, demi, no padding, shaped cup:

Low-cut cups that are open at the top work well for this bust:

Bust B

   27" band - 32" bust - 28DD/26E. She used to wear 32B's.     "Cups typically being too deep, not filling out the top of cups... those are generally the traits of a shallow breast, which is common in smaller-busted women like us. Even in my straight-on pic you can see some wrinkling in the front of the cups where my boobs are not quite projecting enough to fill it all out. It can be a struggle to find cups suited for shallow breasts!"

Bust C

   This woman was baffled by her shallow breast type and asked for help in her post on Bratabase (click for photos). At the time her measurements were: Band: 28", Bust Standing: 33", Bust Leaning: 34". The bra on the photos is from Change, a 28F, suggested by a bra saleslady.  "The cups are too wide for my body, close too quickly on the top and thus she kept upping my size and overall flattens me out. "

Photos below in a 30D La Senza Hello Sugar Front Closure Bra. 

Current measurements: Band (break the tape, exhaled): 26", band (snug, exhaled): 27", bust (standing): 32" , bust (leaning): 33.5'

Warning: nekkid boobies after jump! NSFW!

I have (reluctantly) censored out the nipples out because I don't want the blog to get an adult rating.

Click To Read More 

The Ultimate Guide To Fixing Uncomfortable Underwires

>>

Hiya ladies. Welcome to the ultimate underwire troubleshooter.

    First you need to make sure you are correctly fitted, and that you know which underwire width is best for you. Most underwires issues come from wearing the wrong size.

* Find your correct bra size: most complaint about uncomfortable underwires come from wearing the wrong bra size. Here is how to break out of the bra matrix. 

* Do you need wide or narrow underwires? How to find out and which brands carry which.

* This is why I don't recommend ditching the underwires altogether, at least not before you have tries all the other hacks in this posts. Non-wired bras just don't offer the support that wired bras do.

   Now that you have that down, chances are most of your bras fit comfortably. If you are still having issues with your underwires, here are the solutions:

* Underwires that are "embedded" into the band are much less likely to stretch and distort their shape than those that have a three-piece band.

* Tops of underwires dig into your armpits? You're either petite or have high set breasts. Choose bras with shorter underwires, that don't go up high under the armpits. 

* When the bra pinches on the sternum: You might find plunges are right for you, as the underwires go very low in the front. For non-plunges that you already own, try bending the ends away. Place the bra on a flat surface with the part you want to bend away hanging off. Press on the part that is hanging of just a very little bit, and try the bra on again.

* If you feel that the underwires are too far apart, try sewing a little dart. If the problem is that the underwires go up too high in the front, try pushing them down the tunnel (the tunnel of the underwires is usually longer than the underwires). 

* Do the underwires cut into your sides or the front of your ribs, because they refuse to follow the curve of your ribcage? Many underwires are two-dimensional and rigid, meaning they are as flat as a board. Our ribcages, on the contrary, are curved. The solution: how to shape your underwires like a person.

*  Some underwires, like the Bravissimo Alana, have very inflexible underwires. While this is a big plus for such models in the bigger cup sizes, it may be uncomfortable in smaller cup sizes.

* If  you have very sensitive skin, swelling or other medical issues, read this post. If you have pectus excavatus, here are some tips for you.

    If your bras chronically tend to have uncomfortable underwires, you'll be better off buying online than in offline stores, because when buying online you can test-wear a bra for a few hours as compared to the few minutes in a store.


  Have you tried any of these fixes? Do you know of any that I have not included? Do share in the comments!

Skin Creasing Under Armpits and Underwires Slipping Down

   F. wrote to me with two problems: her skin was creasing under her armpits, and her underwires shift downwards during the day. I tried to make an illustration from the photos she sent me -- my skills are limited so I hope that this conveys what was going on:

   Now the creasing is not just a shallow line -- the tissue had separated into two distinct rolls and rather deep rolls.

  F.'s measurements are 74,5cm / 97cm and she is petite. She got a Curvy Kate Thrill Me in 28H and a Cleo Juna is 28GG (drawn above).

   When the underwires shift lower than the breast crease during the day, this could be because the underwires are narrower than the root of the breasts. However F. wrote that this was not the case. So, I suspected that the cups are too small.

   Now, I noticed that F.'s breasts were very slightly spilling out of the top of the Juna cups (this however was not visible in the Curvy Kate bra, probably because of the different cup shape). It also looked like a lot of the bulk of the breasts was on the sides -- probably if this was really thoroughly scooped into the cup then the cups would overflow. F. also mentioned that the straps do not lay flat in the front where the fabric of the bra cups meets the straps -- this was also probably because the breast tissue  over there was trying to escape the too-small cup.

  This was my theory about the creasing: I think that the creasing is forming because in the past (incorrectly fitting bras) the breast tissue had escaped to the sides, and it was also hung lower because the old bras were not very supportive. Now, the snug bands are lifting that tissue up and there is creasing and bulging going on. But with a bigger cup size and regular scooping things should smoothen out as the breast tissue moves more towards the center.

  I suggested that H. try bigger cups. I was pretty thrilled when F. got back to me and let me know that I was right!

"Hello. Hat tip to you! I believe you were right about my cup size being too small. I ordered the same CK Thrill Me bra in grape/jade (from the photo I sent you) in the next cup size (28H) and in the few hours that I have worn it, the underwires in front are not slipping down. So yay!"

(I really love it when you get back to me, even if I was wrong or someone else solved your problem -- that is how I learn.)

   She also mentioned that the crease is much less prominent in the bigger cups, and that she found out that shortening the straps also worked to minimise the crease. She also mentioned that the bras were pushing her breasts apart -- a common issue in G+ cups; for which I recommended trying out Ewa Michalak bras.

     Have any of you also had issues with breast tissue creasing under the armpits? Any tips for F.? Also, should I stick with these kind of illustrations or do you prefer the simple line drawings I did so far? 

Fixing Underwires That Hurt The Sternum, By Pushing Them Through Tunnels

   What to do when underwires poke in the front of the chest?

   Exhibit A: this lovely Curvy Kate Tease Me fits me perfectly, but the underwires pinch me in the front.  I recently found a quick and dirty fix for this.

   (I'm assuming you are properly fitted, right? If not, off you go and measure yourself. Most bra discomfort issues are caused by wearing the wrong size!)

   So, I realised that the underwire of this bra is much shorter than the tunnel for it. In this photo, the yellow line represents the underwire:

    So I did the obvious. I pushed the underwire so that it goes higher up under the armpits and lower at the sternum:

    There, that feels much more comfortable! You can no sew the empty part of the tunnel up, otherwise the underwire will probably work its way back up.


    Of course, this only works for bras where the underwire is shorter than its tunnel. If this method doesn't work, you can always try bending the tip of the underwire away on a flat surface, or try sewing a dart in the front of the bra. Of course, some people just can't wear regular underwires, but generally I recommend wired over non-wired bras because of the superior fit and support.

     Have you ever tried pushing down your underwires? Do you know any other quick fixes for uncomfortable underwires?

Reader Question: Can A Band Give 90% Of The Support? (Mine Don't!)

   Hey everyone, here is a reader question that I need your help with. I got a mail from MJ (not that MJ), who is a UK 28F, 29 years old with medium-firm breasts that are slightly fuller at the bottom.

   My question is about whether or not it really is true that a band can give 80-90% of the support from a bra....I find that unpadded, seamed bras, while capable of giving a lovely shape, good fit and firm hold with the straps on, as soon as I slip them off it's virtually all gone. I worry that with wear the straps would be taking all the weight and it would hurt!

   I know it sounds like the bras haven't fitted me or suited my shape but I'm wondering if that is it? I've read blogs and websites about bra fitting extensively and so I'm on the look out for all the signs of poorly fitting bras...often this issue with the shoulder straps doing the work is the only issue I can find with a given bra. I'm sure my band isn't too big; can only just get a 28 band done up (it often pings away as I'm trying to get it fastened, and it feels very snug).

   How can thin material like that really hold the breasts in without the straps being on the shoulders, even when the band is tight?

   I've tried on many many seamless styles recently, in different sizes per style, and have found this with all of them. I hope it is something I can work out as I do prefer the look of seamless bras rather than moulded.

    I checked my bras -- when I put them on but slip off the straps, I get quite a bit of support from them. The only problem is that the top of the bra stands away, which obviously doesn't look good. Other than that I got enough support to go around with my daily life. But I'd love someone with a cup size closer to 28F try this out and let me know if this holds true for such sizes as well (I'm a 28DD at the moment).

   You asked how the material can hold the breast in place. Think of breast binding, that's what women sometimes did before bras were invented. A piece of fabric is wound around the breasts kept them immobile, even without straps. Of course in modern bras the underwires and the profiled shape of the cup keep the bra doesn't flatten the breasts; but the basic mechanism is very similar.

   On a side note, the thickness of the fabric is not important, as long as it isn't the least bit stretchy!

   One great metaphor of how a bra band is supposed to work comes from my babywearing days. An acquaintance who is a professional babywearing instructor taught me this type of babywearing:

not me, but it´s ok if you think she´s me cause I think she´s cute

   I first had to put the baby on my front, wrap the sling around my waist and cross behind the back. Now, when this step was done correctly, the baby would sit there safely and be supported even before I made the "shoulder straps". The shoulder straps were there just for extra support and to keep everything in place when I bent forward. That´s why I loved this wrapping method, because the weight was carried by my back. In many other the weight is carried by the shoulders and that can really hurt after several hours. Just like in a bra with a too loose band.

    I admit that I don't have that much experience with either seamless our moulded bras, as I advocate soft underwired bras for everyday wear (they are more-breast-friendly). I'm wondering whether seamless bras have thinner bands?
      Also, I'd love to know if MJ has the same problems in soft, underwired models.
 

   That's my two cents, and now I'd like to ask you for your advice: why do you think MJ is not getting support from her bands?

Back Pain Even After A Proper Bra Fitting?

What if your back still hurts even after being professionally fitted for a bra? Here is what you can do.

   Today's post has been written by Bras I Hate where she reviews bras and gives practical bra fitting advice. Her blog the place you need to go if you are looking for candid, no-nonsense bra reviews. She tweets at @brasihate Go check her out!

    For a lot of people, finding the proper bra size is enough to prevent back pain. Unfortunately, this isn’t the case for everyone. Some women will still experience those discouraging backaches no matter how well-fitted their bra is. There are many causes for back pain, but having heavier boobs, or posture that is bad because of them, can really exacerbate these issues.

   Breast reductions are often touted as the only solution for breast-related back issues, and for some women, they are the best choice. But if you DON’T want to have a reduction, there are a few other tricks you can use to ease your pain.

More hooks!

  Finding a bra with 3 hooks instead of 2 can sometimes be enough to ease the tension. It’s even better if you can scrounge up a longline bra with 4 or 5 hooks in your size. You can even try wearing a basque or body, where the band literally covers your whole torso. Since the band provides most of the support, a greater number of hooks means that support is spread out over a greater area, so you won’t have as many pressure points.

Can you go down a band size?

   If you’ve been professionally fitted at a proper store, they probably put you into the band size that matches your measurement around your underbust. This is usually the right size, but if you have back pain, going down a band size (and up a cup size) can help — even if it is a bit of a squeeze at first. This is especially useful for women whose underbust measures above 75(34),  because bands stretch proportionally more as the band size goes up. Even if you’re wearing a 65(30), though, going down to a 60(28) (and up a cup size) might be the change you need. If the smaller band size feels uncomfortable, wear it with an extender (which is available cheaply on eBay or in many fabric stores) — that way, you can just remove the extender when the bra has stretched a bit, and you’ll have a properly firm band for a longer time.

Do you wear a bra at night?

   I personally find that, because of the size of my boobs, it’s not very comfortable to sleep braless. Whenever I do, my back aches the next day. Sleeping in a bra can help hold everything in place and supported during the night. You can try a wireless soft bra, a cami for light support, or even an underwired bra. I wear an underwired bra at night and have never had any problems; however, I do make sure to wear a looser band or an old, stretched-out bra to sleep in. Since you’re not standing, the band doesn’t need to be too tight to keep you supported.

Where are you holding your head?

   Bad posture can contribute to back pain, and if you have heavy boobs, you may have gotten used to a slumped-over posture without realizing it. But just pulling your shoulders back isn’t enough to help your back feel better. The most important thing is actually the position of your head. The head is a pretty heavy thing to carry, and when it’s too far forward, you end up carrying a lot of its weight on your shoulders. These articles are useful: Breasts Causing Upper Back Pain is a Myth and Fixing Upper Back and Neck Pain. I think the author of the articles is a bit too dismissive of the fact that big boobs can contribute to back pain, but the fix she suggests is still very helpful. All you have to do is make sure you are holding your head far back enough — straight over your neck. It can feel very unnatural at first. Try standing against a flat wall and see if the back of your head touches the wall--it should. Practice holding your head there all the time. It feels weird at first, but this is actually the most comfortable place to hold your head. You may be amazed at the difference you experience — it practically eliminated my pain.


   If these tips don’t help you, I think the next step should be to see a doctor who won’t jump to conclusions. Back pain isn’t always related to having a bigger chest, but it can be, and a good doctor will look over all the possibilities with you. If there’s no other solution, having a reduction may be the best choice. But for those who don’t want to have one, trying these tips might help make life less painful.

Why Is My Bra Squeaking? A Reader Question

    I got this question from a reader in the comments. A squeaking bra sounds hilarious, until it happens to you -- then suddenly it's not so funny anymore. (While we are on a funny note: can you imagine that I keep on typing "squaking" all the time?)

   I searched around and found that the squeaking sounds is caused by the underwires rubbing with each other or with the fabric. Often a "flat" (ie two-dimensional) underwire may squeak when trying to bend around a curved torso. If the torso is very curved the underwire has to bend a lot, pulling on the fabric and squeaking in the taut tunnel. A squeaky bra is born.

    In case any of you happen to buy a bra that squeaks, probably your safest bet is to return it. Another thing -- I've read that putting your bra in the dryer might cause it to squeak, so air drying is best!

    But what if you're stuck with a squeaky bra that is too good to throw away? Washing the squeaky bra a couple of times helps in some cases. Unfortunately it didn't help our reader, even though she tried using fabric softener too. I have heard that a bit of talcum / cornstarch / soap might help lubricate the spot and end the squeaking. Unfortunately I didn't find another solution, so I'm turning to you gals: does anyone know of an effective way to get rid of squeaky underwires? Do you think bending them around the torso would do the trick?

Bra Fitting and Pectus Excavatus

I recently got a mail form Caitlin:

I have a not-wholly-uncommon but not-often-talked-about issue called pectus excavatus, where my sternum and ribs form a shallow concavity in the center while the lower part of my ribs sticks much farther forward. While it's not particularly severe, this is why I often feel my breasts are smaller than they actually are; because of this concavity, they don't really sit out in front of the rest of my side silhouette at all. It makes me look pretty flat-chested. This has also caused me lots of problems with bra fitting- the center gore NEVER sits flush, no matter what bra I'm wearing, and I've worn the gamut.

Caitlin also mentions being petite, with highly-set tear-shaped breasts and an asymmetry.

Thanks for writing in, Caitlin. I asked around on the Lobby Biusciastych hoping that someone experienced with pectus excavatus would chime in. Basically I got some pieces of advice for you:

• You will need to try out many brands and models, and you might be very surprised at how a random model sits really well on you, while another very similar one in the same brand doesn't work at all.
• You could try plunge bras, they might sit better because the underwires go very low in the front.
• Try bras that don't have very hard underwires.
• You might have to come in terms with the fact that most of the time the underwires will not be flat on your sternum. As long as the support is good, you feel comfortable and the bra flatters you, that is ok.

    I have no idea whether having pectus excavatus wouldmean that you need a looser band or not. I would be great if you could try out band 28 and 30 bras on backwards, and see how it feels. I think that in your case you should not really follow the calculator. You will need to order a bunch of bras online, from the description of the bras you have I'd suggest ate least 30DD, 30DDD(E), 28DDD(E), 28F --- if you can I would suggest even more sizes. When you try these on you will be able to determine your size. You can then return most or all of them, and order different models in the size that fits you best. I know this sounds tedious and you might have to temporarily freeze quite a bit of money, but it's totally worth it. Otherwise you will only be able to guesstimate.

      Does anyone of you have Pectus Excavatus or knows anyone who has? Any tips for Caitlin? 

Bra Band Tightening Tutorial, Using Elastic

  Simply shortening the band completely changes the fit of the bra because then the band is always very stretched. Try stretching a bra band: the underwires get bent apart, and this flattens the cup. The underwire doesn´t lie flat on the chest anymore, often the ends dig in and the middle stays away from the ribcage. (like this).

   I have already shared a simple tutorial on sewing over the bra band to prevent it from stretching. Today I want to show how to tighten a band even more, using an elastic band. This method is perfect to rescue favourite bras that have stretched with time, or to adjust the fit of a bra that is not available in smaller band sizes. Just remember that this shrinks the band one or two sizes, but it won't make a 28 band out of a 34!
   Also, I want to apologise for taking so long to do this! The (lame) reason is that I normally do my mending on my train journey to my university, and somehow I can't imagine sewing a bra and photographing it in public. Finally I managed to do it at home.

   Important: please take time to read the post and not just look at the pictures. I have made some mistakes and I explain those in my notes. Also, I am no seamstress, so if you guys have a better way of doing this, let me know!

You will need:
* Pins
* Scissors
* Thread
* Elastic: choose a better quality one, the cheap ones stretch out very quickly. To make this project worth your time do buy the elastic from a store with sewing supplies instead of a supermarket. Also, check  the elastic for scratchyness. If your bra is dark, get a black one. The elastic I bought was slightly too narrow, choose one that is as wide as the one on the bra.

 Cut the elastic to size: 
  You have to try on the bra and guesstimate this. The elastic has to be shorter than the part of the band you are going to sew it to, but how short depends on how tight you want your band to be. In the photo above you see that in my bra only part of the band was stretchy, so I decided to sew the elastic only to the stretchy part. Also, I did only the bottom part of the band, but if you have a larger bust and need more support, do the top edge of the band as well!

Secure the ends of the elastic:
   This step is important because elastic frays a lot. You can't tuck the ends underneath because you'd end up with slightly uncomfortable bumps. I stitched around the ends, but fabric glue would have worked just as well. Update: a great tip from a reader -- to stop the elastic from fraying, light a candle and slightly melt the ends.

Stretch the elastic and pin it to the band:

  I pinned the whole thing to the edge of a sofa, but if you have a better idea go with it.

Sew the stretched elastic to the band:   Somewhere I read that you should start in the middle and work your way to the ends. If you have a sewing machine, there is that nice zig-zag stitch, or even better: the mending stitch which is more stable. I used a back stitch, pulling the thread taut all the time.

  I experimented around with finding the easiest way to sew... using my foot.

I realised that I have to reverse my back stitch so that the ugly side stays on the inside.

Ta-daa! Not very pretty from the inside...

   But looks pretty good from the outside, don't you think? 

  Hope this is helpful! Also, I beg those of you who actually know how to really properly sew, to share your tips and criticism in the comments!