Bakuchiol -- A Gentle Alternative To Retinol Is Scientifically Proven To Really Work!

Every now and then I stumble onto skin care articles that talk about anti-ageing, and there it is -- Retinol. The supposed key to anti-ageing. Retinol does work -- this version of Vitamin A reduces fine lines, spots, and encourages a faster cell turnover. Yet it has some big disadvantages -- the skin is more sensitive to UV rays, it is thinner and more sensitive and loses some of it's barrier function. It can irritate the skin temporarily, and in some cases it can can cause heavy damage to sensitive skin -- retinoid dermatitis. Most organic and natural cosmetic certifications have not approved retinol, nor is it approved for pregnant or nursing women, nor should you use it if you are trying to get pregnant, as it is a know reproductive toxicant.

I personally chose not to use retinol and instead choose other anti-ageing cosmetic ingredients that are less risky. Many ingredients are called "the natural alternative to retinol", however when I searched deeper it turns out that their anti-ageing effects don't come close to those of  retinol.

Except one.

Bakuchiol is a substance extracted from Psoralea corylifolia aka the Babchi plant, which has traditionally been used in Chinese medicine and Ayurveda. Its Sanskrit name Kushtanashini means destroyer of afflictions -- studies have shown it has a lot of medical potential, so it seems to be apt!

What Bakuchiol can do:

This study shows that bakuchiol is just as effective as retinol in diminishing wrinkles and hyperpigmentation, but much gentler. It also stimulates the production of collagen, helps against acne (source), makes the skin more elastic and firm (study), and smooths pores.
There are a couple of differences with retinol:  unlike retinol bakuchiol is photo-stable which means that it remains active in bright sunlight and is safe to use during the day. It doesn't decrease the size of oil glands. And it's vegan (retinol sometimes isn't).

Products with Bakuchiol:

Bakuchi can be used in a concentration of up to 1%, and this concentration is also the most effective. So when choosing a product with bakuchiol, do check out how many percent of Bakuchi is actually in the product. Many don't mention this important detail, which probably means that there is a much smaller amount of bakuchiol in it.
A lot of products with bakuchiol are very expensive, I'm talking around 50-150€. I do think it's only because bakuchiol is new and hyped at the moment, and that soon it will trickle down.

That said, I did hunt for a couple of products that won't kill your wallet. The BYBI Beauty Bakuchiol Booster is made of 1% bakuchiol and 99% squalene, it isn't expensive but it seems to sell out days after it's back in stock. I am extremely pleased with the results I have had with it so far, but will write a proper review when I've used it a bit longer.

Some other products that contain bakuchiol and fulfil my criteria of being affordable and not containing ingredients that I wouldn't feel comfortable using (silicones, dubious preservatives, ingredients known to be toxic, etc):

Pacifica's Future Youth Crystal Ball Serum
Erboristica Purysens Pelle Mista e Impura,
Eboristica Purysens Crema Viso Riequilibrante Anti-Eta,
Esito Natural Night Face Cream
Esito Natural Face Serum. 

If you know of any more let me know in the comments! PS I found that going through the hashtag #bakuchiol on instagram is a good way of keeping up with new products that contain bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol DIY? 

There are also Babchi oil and Babchi powder available. These seem both to be very effective against Vitiligo and Psoriasis. However they have to be heavily diluted otherwise they can cause chemical burns. So this is definitely not something you can slather on your face. However EverBlossoms has a recipe for a DIY Babchi serum. This user mixes 10% Babchi oil with 90% squalane. 
I couldn't find out how many % of the active ingredient bakuchiol does oil from the Babchi plant contain. Maybe there is a chemist among you with access to the newest studies, or knows what terms to search for? 
What I did find out is that (unlike pure bakuchiol) the entire Babchi plant does contain substances that make the skin sensitive to sunlight. It should be used in combination with sunscreen, and never during the day or in the middle of the summer.


So have you tried anything with bakuchiol yet? This ingredient is going to have a permanent place in my anti-aging routine, in addition to Vit C. Which other anti-ageing ingredients do you swear on?

Photo credit: Jayesh Pail

So My Favourite Organic Self-Tanner Contains Formaldehyde + Safe Alternatives

Do you use self-tanners? Do you like the look of tanned skin? I find pale skin really beautiful, pale blondes have something etheric and light about it, pale brunettes look mysterious. Personally I do like to use self-tanners on my skin because a lightly tanned skin feels more "me" -- probably because I grew up in a more sunny place than I live in now and have seen myself without a tan for the first time a couple of years ago.

Since a couple of years I have been using the Lavera Sun Sensitiv self tanning cream, which has an impeccable ingredient list... or so I thought. The November 2015 issue of the Öko Test magazine examined several self-tanning products in a laboratory and found that most contained formaldehyde. This chemical not only is a human carcinogen but also causes a number of other health issues, and is been banned in cosmetics by the EU since 2016. However there are no laws against chemical ingredients that release formaldehyde over time.

The ingredient that is rescponsible for tanning the skin is DHA, which is harmless in itself and even used to enhance the colour of meat. However with time and with warmth DHA gasses of formaldehyde. Of all the self-tanners that Öko tested examine, almost all had too high levels of formaldehyde -- including the organic brands. Most conventional brands also had other problem substances such as allergy-causing perfume, pthalates, parabens, lilial and PEGs.

Luckily there were three self-tanning products that the Öko Test laboratories found that were almost free from formaldehyde -- the one from Douglas and the one from Lavozon (Müller) got the rating of "very good". The one from Yves Roche got an "satisfactory", with points taken away because of the irritating perfume Cumarin, PEGs and aluminium. Next in line came the La Roche-Posey self tanner with a rating of only "sufficient", because of silicones and PEGs.
To prevent the release of formaldehyde all self-tanners that rely on DHA should be stored in a cool place (the fridge) and used up much sooner than their use-by date. I also found a couple of interesting DIY self-tanner recipes, they all contain some kind of fats which should keep the mixture on the skin and off your clothes. let me know if you try them! Other alternative is carrot oil (mixed with other oils).

The full article and the list of the products that were tested can be seen here.

Photo credit:  Alexander Shustov

Dry Lips? Your Toothpaste Might Be The Culprit

    Many conventional toothpaste contains an ingredient that is very harsh for the skin: Sodium Laureth Sulfate, sometimes abbreviated to SLS. This surfactant is so harsh and stripping that it is the main component of dish-washing detergents and is used to clean machinery. It causes a host of problems in the skin, and is very harsh on the delicate skin on the lips.
   Check your toothpaste ingredients for SLS; or the related chemical Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES), and other sulfates. All certified natural toothpaste is SLS-free, but you might also be able to find some conventional ones too. Sulfate-free toothpaste will not foam, but it cleans just as well. Bubbles are nothing more than a special effect.
   Peppermint, menthol, camphor and similar can also be irritating for the lips in the winter, so you might want to choose toothpaste and lip balms without these ingredients. Personally I find that lip balms based on beeswax or shea butter work really well for me.
   Finally, I find that I always get dry lips during the cold months if I have not been drinking enough water!

    Do you struggle with dry, chapped lips? What triggers it? What are your favourite lip balms?

Photo credit: Anna Sastre

Trap The Moisture! Occlusive Ingredients In Skin And Hair Products

      "Oils don't moisturise." -- so how come oils and butters are so great for dry skin and hair? Oils are occlusives, and occlusives slow down the evaporation of water from the skin or hair. Basically, they seal in the moisture.
    Oils are not the only kind of occlusive out there. In fact, most occlusives are man made: silicones, mineral oil, cetyl alcohol. Occlusives are very important components of most cosmetics, so if you want to know your product you need to know your occlusives.

    The "richer" the product is, the more occlusives it contains. Ointments have the most, followed by creams. Lotions, milks and gels contain much less occlusives. Hair masques contain a lot of occlusives, conditioners less, while styling products usually contain lighter ones in smaller doses.

How do occlusives work ?

   They create a film over the skin and hair. This seals in the moisture, but may also seal out the moisture. Occlusives might block pores -- silicones, cetearyl alcohol, lanolin and certain oils often do this. Do remember that clogged pores can be very individual -- what might not clog your pores might clog mine, and vice versa.

   It is handy to recognise the most common occlusives. That way when you take a product into your hand, you can estimate how "heavy" or moisturising it will be. Also, even the best moisturising ingredients won't give great effects if not mixed with an occlusive (think of licking chapped lips -- they simply dry out even more).

Here is a list of occlusives, from dermatology.about.com :

Which occlusives are the best?

   Mineral oil feels non-greasy and so it´s used very often, but it isn´t very good in sealing the moisture in. Silicones feel silky and non-greasy, but they might block pores or cause build up. I advise avoiding them in skin care products, they may be used in hair care with caution. Lanolin is thick and tends to block pores, but it´s amazing for lips, heels and elbows.
   Plant-based occlusives (oils and butters) are the best kind of occlusives since they are biodegradable, and don't pose health risks. Remember however that every different oil has different properties -- some are more likely to block pores than others, and some are less greasy than others. Obviously different oils are good for different products -- if you are looking for a rich, moisturising product for dry skin, sesame oil or shea butter is a good ingredient -- but these same ingredients won't work for you if you need a light product.
    Your hair type determine the kind of occlusives you need in your products. Porous hair loves oil, and dry hair definitely needs oil. Finer hair needs very low amounts of light oil (like jojoba). If you feel your hair is weighed down, chances are there is too much occlusives in your products. You can always add extra oils into your products if your hair needs to be weighed down a bit.
    It usually takes a bit of trial-and-error to find which occlusives your hair and skin loves. I have written quite a bit on this blog about many occlusives, so have fun browsing through the archives.

sources:
dermatology.about.com

   

Why Evening Primrose Oil Is Amazing + How To Use It

   I want to show you my newest skin-care holy grail. This oil is my go-to product when I get breakouts, blocked pores or when my T-zone decides to be oilier than usual. Overnight it calms the problem area and I wake up with smooth and happy skin. But this oil can do more than that -- it is great for the hair and is also a healthy supplement.
   Evening primrose oil is one of the most valuable oils in skin care. It is very rich in GLA (gamma-linolenic acid) which increases the body's resistance and is anti-inflammatory. It can do wonders for the skin and hair, especially when taken as a supplement. Here is how you can use this wonderful oil:

Topically:

   Evening primrose oil regulates the functioning of the oil glands, so it can help dry, combination or oily skin regulate itself and become normal. The oil helps the skin heal faster, and can be used to fight problems like acne, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis and irritations or itching. It increases the skin's elasticity and fights wrinkles, and is great for mature skin as well. It also strengthens the nails.
   Primrose oil absorbs quickly and is not comodogenic (although what will block your pores and what won't is a highly individual matter), and the smell is almost non-discernible.

   You can use it pure on the face and body and massage it in; or add 5-15% to your moisturiser, serum or another oil. Bonus points if you remember to massage some into your nails!

As a supplement:

  Evening Primrose oil has many benefits (like helping with PMS), here I'll just mention the cosmetic ones: it helps against hair fall and speeds up hair growth; it also helps with too dry / too oily skin, acne, irritations; it is anti-aging and increases the skin's elasticity. It is also supposed balance out too a strong appetite and help the body to shed fat.
   If you want to take evening primrose oil as a supplement, consult your doc, check if there are any counter-indications or if it interacts with any medications that you are taking. You need to take the capsules for around a month to notice effects. Oh, and it is not very tasty.

      You can buy the oil in a bottle, like me or you can also buy it as a supplement -- you can open the ampoules to apply on the skin. I get my oil from the Hobbythek, but many countries it is not hard to get it online, or in health stores or drug stores. Do make sure what you are getting is pure evening primrose oil, cold pressed and preferably organic.


   Have you every tried evening primrose oil or a product that contains it? If not, I'd like to encourage you to try out this lovely oil.

Oils As Natural Sunscreen?

  I found this extremely interesting infographic of the SPF factors of oils, based on research done in India. The wheels in my head are turning and I am thinking about how o use this information.

Here are my thoughts:

* The carrot seed oil, the raspberry seed oil and the wheatgerm oil are the only two that have SPF worth taking notice of. I have used raspberry seed oil on my face and liked it, it sinks in well and is not greasy. Wheatgerm oil is much heavier and I used it on the body, I could not imagine using it on the face unless I had very dry skin. Carrot seed oil is an essential oil, so it cannot be applied straight on the skin; but it could be added to the wheatgerm oil or the raspberry seed oil to increase their SPF.

* Some women use oils to get a tan quicker, however as you see most of the oils on this table have a low SPF and will protect your skin only for a short time.

* I could definitely imagine using raspberry seed oil as sunscreen, especially on the body. In fact, using an oil with high SPF as a moisturiser would be a very smart move. I'm thinking of adding a little bit of the Alverde oil mix to a bottle of wheatgerm oil (to improve the scent and feel) and make it my staple body oil. I use oils or body butters almost every day in the summer, so switching them up for something with SPF is probably a good idea.

* Oil won't fry your hair in hot temperatures. I have protected my hair with oil in India just like the locals, and I have seen that it does a good job of protecting it against damage. If fact going out in the sun without hair oil makes it very dry, brittle, and lightens the colour. In the west though, oily hair = dirty hair, so I limit myself to a small drop -- just enough to lock in the moisture and add shine. No it looks like raspberry seed oil is the logical choice for this in the summer.

* All-natural sunscreen based on these oils will appear on the market any time now. There must be someone trying to create one as we speak. Just you wait and see.

* Obviously I will still be using my favourite sunscreen on my face, wearing my extra-large hats and staying out of the midday sun.


    What is your experience with oils? WOuld you use any of the above to protect yourself from the sun?

About Hydroxy Acids: AHAs and BHAs and PHAs

    Winter is a great time to try out hydroxy acids on the skin, so I would like to explain what these are, how do they work and how you can use them. "Acid" may sound scary and toxic, but did you know that the DIY papaya and the aspirin face masks that are so popular work because both these things contain hydroxy acids? Also -- most anti-acne and anti-aging products contain hydroxy acids, so if you use these you really need to know how hydroxy acids work.

      Hydroxy acids are chemical exfoliators. They make the skin look brighter and smoother by removing the dead cells, and they fight dicolourations of all kinds: age spots, pregnancy mask, remains of breakouts, sun damage. They help with fine lines and acne scars and also stimulate cell renewal. Interested? Read on.

   First, it is important to know the difference between AHAs,  BHAs and PHAs, so that you can choose the right one for your skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids aka AHAs:

    They are more powerful than BHAs and are usually used in anti-aging products. They minimize fine lines, help to moisturise the skin, AHAs are water soluble and they cannot penetrate the sebum and cleanse the pores, so they are recommended for dry skin. In lower concentrations the affect only the outer layer of the skin, in higher concentrations they can also work on the deeper layers of the skin.
      The most common AHAs are:

glycolic acid (from sugar cane)
lactic acid (from milk)
malic acid (from apples and pears)
citric acid (from oranges and lemons)
tartaric acid (from grapes)
mandelic acid* (from bitter almonds)

    Side-effects of AHAs include irritation and sun-sensitivity. If you have never used Hydroxy Acids before, start with BHAs rather than AHAs -- ory try out manelic acid
    * Mandelic acid is one of the most gentle of all hydroxy acids -- it does not irritate the skin or cause sun sensitivity. More about it here.

Beta Hydroxy Acids aka BHAs

   There is actually only one BHA -- salicylic acid. BHA is oil soluble, and so are fantastic against skin with blocked pores and acne. It also tightens the pores and It also minimizes fine lines and remove discolourations. It is less likely to irritate than AHAs. Salicylic acid is anti-inflammatory, so it works well against irritation and flare-ups.

Poly Hydroxy Acids aka PHAs

   This is a new generation of hydroxy acids which have all the properties of AHAs but are not as irritating. They don't cause redness or peeling. They are very moisturising, helps with broken capillaries and help the skin to heal. I have written more about PHAs here.

Products with Hydroxy Acids

    Most anti-acne and a lot of anti-aging products contain hydroxy acids. Some will advertise the fact on the packaging while others do not. Look for the names of the acids on the ingredient lists.
   It is important to know the concentration of the hydroxy acid in the ingredient -- often it is mentioned on the packaging. If not, look at the ingredient list to see where the hydroxy acid is mentioned. Concentrations of AHAs between 4%-6% are recommended, so if an AHA is among the top three ingredients, chances are that there is enough of it to actually work. However BHAs work better in lower concentrations (0.5% - 2%), so look for it nearer the end of the list. Start with a product with lower concentrations of hydroxy acids, or anything with mandelic acid or PHA -- when your skin has gotten accustomed it or if you feel it doesn't do anything for you, you can upgrade to stronger stuff. Trained cometicians can also do treatments with much higher concentrations of hydroxy acids -- the results are much more visible and longer-lasting. I'm not an expert on such treatments, but I have heard that it is a good idea to train your skin with normal products that contain hydroxy acids first.
    The pH of the product is also very important -- AHAs need to be between 3 and 4.5 and BHAs between 3 and 4 for the hydroxy acids to work. You can test the pH level with a litmus paper (from a pet store or a diy cosmetics store).
     Hydroxy acids need to be absorbed into the skin to work, so skip cleansers which stay on the face only for a few seconds. Toners and moisturisers / creams work much better. I have tried and like Effaclar Duo which contains LHA (an derivative of salicylic acid) -- it's great for acid beginners, and also I have heard great things about Paula's Choice. For more recommendations, check out the reviews on Makeup Alley (or other review sites in your language).

How to use AHAs and BHAs

    Hydroxy acids should be used like a treatment -- for a couple of weeks, after which your skin needs a break. Because hydroxy acids make your skin sensitive to the sun, it is a good idea to use them in the autumn or winter, apply them in the evening, and use sunscreen during the day. If you don't follow these suggestions, the sun will undo all the good work the hydroxy acids are doing and you may even get discolouration. Obviously, you should not sunbathe or go to the solarium when you are using hydroxy acids.
     You may want to use acids every other night, so that the skin gets used to them. On the remaining days use a rich moisturiser, because acids often dry the skin a bit. Often the skin first reacts with a breakout, which should go away soon -- this is normal and a part of the process.
     Don't apply the product all over the face, only on the areas that need it -- for many people this will mean only the T zone. Some might want to use it only on problem spots.
     The skin might be red and pinch after applying a product with hydroxy acids. If it is only slight, wait it out. However if your skin is really irritated, wash the product out. Next time try either on top of a layer of regular moisturiser, or switch to product with a lower concentration of acids.


   Are you interested in trying out hydroxy acids? Or maybe you use them already -- what are the effects? Any products you'd recommend?

souces: Biochemia Urody

What Makes A Conditioner, A Conditioner? (Plus Many Tips!)

    A reader sent in this very valid question, important not only for beauty DIYers but also people lost on the maze of hair care products unhelpfully labeled "potion", "elixir" "formula" or "complex." In this post I will try to explain what a conditioner does and what it contains, as well as its relation to similar products such as hair masques, serums and leave-ins.

 What is a conditioner?

   "A substance, esp a cosmetic, applied to something to improve its condition". Improving the condition of the hair means moisturising it, filling in the gaps between the scales, and coating it with a protective layer; as well as other aesthetic improvements such as adding shine, softness or volume.
    You should remember that conditioners don't "feed" or "nourish" the hair -- hair is dead. It is not like a plant that is fed and nourished by the root, rather it is like spaghetti being pushed out of the spaghetti machine. Conditioning the hair can be compared to conditioning leather -- the leader is dead but conditioning it helps to protect it from the ravages of the environment and make it look good.

     Conditioners are meant to be applied on wet hair, left in for a while and (usually) washed out. This means that they get deeper into the hair that other products. They are meant to be used after every wash. More than any other hair product, conditioners help to keep the hair in a good condition. Shampoos clean the hair, styling product make it look pretty (often with a cost of the health of the hair). Conditioning is the main thing that

What is the difference between a conditioner and...

... a leave-in?
Leave-ins are a lighter kind of conditioner that doesn't have to be washed out.

... a hair masque or treatment?
These are richer conditioners, and are meant to be left on the hair longer (15 mins to overnight). They are usually used more rarely than regular conditioners, because they are so rich.

... a hair serum?
Most serums are basically leave-ins or conditioners with a fancy name, and sometimes fancy ingredients as to match it.

... a conditioning shampoo?
Conditioning shampoos have more conditioning ingredients than regular shampoos. In my opinion these are usually a gimmick -- instead of producing sulfate-free shampoos, conditioning ingredients are added to offset the harshness of the sulfates. The shampoo stays on the hair for too short to condition it, and should not be left on the hair for a longer time (again, because of the sulfates). It is better to buy a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo and use it only on the top of the head, and a proper conditioner on the lengths. (If you are curious why sulfates are used in shampoos: they make a lot of foam, give that squeaky clean feeling and are very cheap).

What does a conditioner contain and how does it work?

  Conditioners contain humectants (moistuising ingredients) like panthenol, glyceryn, hialuranon, urea, sodium lactate, aloe vera etc. These help the hair to retain more moisture.

    The also contain occlusives which coat the hair and prevent the moisture from escaping. They also keep the hair smoother and shinier. Good occlusives are plant-based oils and butters, crappy ones are mineral oil and petroleum. Silicones are also often used, and they should be used with caution. Fatty alcohols and glycerin are also used, they are not my favourites but they work for many people.

 Lets not forget proteins. These are the building blocks of hair. Depending on your hair type (esp porosity) your hair may or may not like protein, or may love it only once in a while. For this reason I recommend starting with a protein-free or low-protein conditioner for everyday use, and having a protein heavy conditioner or masque and trying out whether and how often your hair likes it. Proteins come under ingredients names: see here. Of course you can also make your own using beer, avocado, yoghurt, egg whites or even protein supplements.

    Then there are ingredients that add shin and gloss, often silicones.

   Then there might be other active ingredients of all kinds -- plant extracts and minerals, vitamins, and much more. There are also pH regulators and anti-static agents and detanglers. Conditioners also contain cationic surfactant, they help the ingredients of the conditioner cling to the hair.

   The rest of the conditioner is made up of filler ingredients, consistency givers, conservants, perfume, colours and so on.

    Do remember that often one ingredient can take on several of this roles. For example jojoba oil is a great occulsive, gives shine and detangle.

When choosing a conditioner:

• Skip the description, go straight to the ingredient list. The ingredient list will not lie.
• Salon brands or more expensive products are not necessarily better. Again, look at the ingredients to see what the product is really worth.

• A simple ingredient list is good. This usually means less filler ingredients and unnecessary stuff; and the conditioner will be less likely to irritate or cause an allergy. Short ingredients lists means more active ingredients that work for your hair and less ingredients that work for the product (pH regulators, conservants, thickeners and special effects ingredients).
• If you see silicones, mineral oil / petroleum among the top three ingredients, drop the product, it's crap.
• The first three or four ingredients is what the product contains most of.

• Don't fall under the spell of fancy names like "hair therapy", "nurturing creme" and "moisturising treatment": if it's mean to be used after shampooing and washed off after a couple minutes
• Do look up the reviews on Makeupalley as well as the ingredient toxicity on SkinDeep. The Livestrong website also breaks down the ingredients of many popular conditioners.

   How would you define a conditioner? Did I miss something? Also: which is your favourite conditioner?

Which Oils Get Absorbed Fastest By The Skin?

     Oils that get absorbed quickly do so because they contain a lot of Polyunstaturated acids: Omega 3 (alpha linolenic acid) and Omega 6 fatty acids (linoleic acid and gamma-linoleic acid). 

    Oils that contain at least 50% of polyunsaturated acids get absorbed  very fast. They are good for oily skin, feel "light", are good as daytime moisturisers, and can even be worn under make-up. For example flaxseed oil, wild rose oil, wheat germ oil, borage oil, hemp oil, grape seed oil, walnut oil.

    Oils that have between 20% and 50% are called partially absorbing, and are good for normal and mixed skin. Examples are sunflower oil, soya oil, argan oil, sesame oil, plum seed oil.

    Oils that have less than 20% of polyunsaturated acids take a long time to get absorbed, and are recommended for dry and mature skin, that doesn't tend towards blocked pores. Of course, these oils could be great for drier parts of the body too! Examples of such oils include coconut oil, almond oil, avocado oil, rinzinus oil, macadamia oil, neem oil, olive oil, rice oil.

    I heard that hair with high porosity often prefers the kind of oils that absorb less. While I'm not sure if this is accurate, you might want to take the three groups of oils into account when testing out oils for the hair. For example -- if you find that several of the oils high in polyunsaturated acids aren't friends with your hair, try oils that are low on them.

   Do research the properties of the oils before you create your oil cleansing mix or buy a facial product with oils in it. To find out which oils are more likely to block your pores and which are less likely to do so, read this post.

Photo by Christin Hume on Unsplash

About Emollients: Do Oils Moisturise?

What we call moisturising is done by humectants (like glycerin) that pull moisture from wet place to dry place, and emollients (like oils and silicones) that seal the moisture in (or out). *more here*. Emollients replenish our natural emollient layer (sebum) that gets washed off by detergents and hot water, and prevent our skin from drying out.

What do emollients do ?

Emollients are many different substances, their common characteristic is that they form a film over the hair / skin. They:

* seal the moisture in (or out, when the air is too humid). In effect the skin is moisturised, and softer.
* replenish the lipids of the skin that are removed by cleansing agents that contain synthetic detergents, or by etyl alcohol.
* form a barrier against the environment.
* make the skin feel soft, smooth and slippery, by "filling in the crevices".

Any emollients I might be familiar with ?

Sure ! Ever heard of oil ?
Here are some common emollients:

• Fatty alcohols (can be recognised by "alcohol" in the name, for example cetearyl alcohol. EXCEPT alcohol denat.)
• Paraffin (aka mineral oil. Not recommended, petroleum by-product) The problem here is that the may for a too thick layer, excu I recommend using plant oils instead.
• Oils: Especially my favourite Jojoba oil as it is similar to sebum, an oil that is naturally found in the skin. For this reason, jojoba oil helps keep dry skin moist and suppresses the production of oil in skin that is oily.
• Silicones: the water-solubles ones are ok, the more stubborn ones will form an impermeable layer. *Here* is a list of which is which.
• Polymers: polyquaternium
• Lanolin (sheep wax) -- can be comodogenic for some. I love this as a heel balm,
• Aloe Vera
• Vitamins A and E

Here is a more exhaustive list from dermatology.about.com

How to use emollients in your beauty routine:

* Emollients (like an oil or moisturising cream) work best when applied on moist skin (after a bath). That way you are sealing in the moisture.

* I recommend using plant-based oils, and avoiding mineral oil (it´s not very good at retaining moisture, and doesn´t contain all the good stuff that plant oils have).

 

Sources: wizaz.pl

wisegeek.com

 

A Small Warning About Pore Minimizing Products

    Pore cleansing and minimising are a big topic for me since my genes threaten to make my nose look like these pretty fruit above. While browsing through products that promise to diminish pores, I found that there are generally two kinds of them: those based on silicones and those based on salicylic acid.

     If you have been reading Venusian*Glow for a while, you´ll know my distaste for silicones in skin care. In short: silicones might temporarily smooth over your pores, but long-term they might block your pores. Silicones don´t moisturise or nourish the skin, and might even form a film on the skin that prevents other beneficial ingredients from getting to your skin. In short, silicone is a faker ingredient.
     Salicylic Acid (aka BHA) does actually unblock pores and is anti-inflammatory. Pore-minimising products that contain salicylic acid are actually effective, and also do other things like evening out the skin tone (obviously, this also depends of how much salicylic acid is in the product). The caveat is that salicylic acid makes the skin sensitive to UV rays, so a good sunscreen is a must -- unless you want to get skin discolourations.

     Of course there are pore minimizing products based on other ingredients. I will be trying out some stuff soon, and of course I´ll share the results with you. Stay tuned!

How To Read Cosmetic Ingredients Lists

    If there is one thing you can do to get in control of your hair and skin, it's learning the basics of cosmetic ingredients. The ingredient list tells you the truth about the cosmetic, not the manufacturer's description. Let's compare cosmetic shopping to shopping digital cameras: would you look for specs like "12x zoom, 12 megapixels and 2.7" display" or would you be satisfied with a description like "this cutting-edge camera will make your photos look amazing"?
    Also, recognising which ingredients work for you and which don't, makes choosing products much easier. Instead of saying "noooo, yet another moisturiser is blocking my pores", you can say "oh, this contains beeswax and my skin doesn't like beeswax."

   A couple of years back I though that someone who understands cosmetic ingredients is terribly smart and educated, but I now know it's not so hard. With a bit of practice you can do it too. I have already written the easy guide to reading cosmetic labels. Here I have written a bit more on the topic:

   First, a secret: you don't actually need to understand each and every ingredient! Recognising just a couple tells me a lot about the product. Mineral oil? Cheaply made product. All four parabens? The rest is probably just as toxic. Silicone? The product wants to fake a moisturising effect.

Three Rules Of Reading Cosmetic Ingredients:

Rule 1: The ingredients are always listed according to quantity. So if you see a cream "with olive oil" and the ingredients read "mineral oil, aqua, glycerine, oilive oil, ..." you'll know that the cream contains way more crappy mineral oil than olive oil.

Rule 2: Ingredients that make up less that 1% of the product are listed at the end, in alphabetical order. These include scents, colours, conservants as well as active ingredients (when there is very little of it because of the recipe or saving money). Remember that conservants, even though in tiny quantities, can also irritate the skin.

Rule 3: Everyone's skin is different, so it's up to you to find out what your skin and hair like. An ingredient that doesn't block your pores may block mine. Proteins may make my hair bouncy but yours heavy.

A small handbook of cosmetic ingredients:

   Here I want to give an overview of some ingredients that can be problematic.

Parfum/fragrance: the ingredients of perfume don't have to be declared, so producers are free to stick whatever toxic and irritating stuff they want inside. And they do -- the fragrance is often the most toxic part of many products. Only certain fragrances (those seen as most harmful by the EU comission) have to be listed separately: for eg. Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Eugenol. Avoid all perfumes if you have a sensitive skin. Fragrances in certified natural products are made of essential oils and are safe.


Detergents: Avoid SLS and SLES (soldium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl ether sulfate) which are harsh, aggressive detergents. They usually are in cleansers, soaps, shampoos and toothpaste but sometimes appear in conditioners and skin masks.


Conservants: Not all of these are bad. For example lactic acid or vitamin C are great skin-friendly conservants. Others, like -paraben, DMDM Hydantoin, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, Diazolidynyl Urea, Imidiazolidynyl Urea, Phenyl Benzoate, Phenyl Dimethicone, Formaldehyde, Methylchloroisothiazolinone) should be avoided.

Humectants: moisturuisers, they attract water. Glycerine, urea, mel (honey), hyaluronan, d-panthenol, aloe vera are great, skin-friendly moisturisers.


Emolients: Seal the moisture in or out. Includes oil, other fats and silicones. Plant-based are good (from plants, seeds nuts, etc), as well as lanolin, butters (such as shea butter), beeswax (cera alba). Avoid mineral oil / paraffinum liquidum. When it comes to silicones, avoid in skin care but a bit of water-soluble silicones in hair products are ok, as long as they are not at the top of the ingredient list.


Alcohol: avoid alcohol denat (also listed simply as alcohol) and isopropyl alcohol -- they are drying and aggressive and should rather be avoided, except in the cases where they are the carriers of the plant essences. The alcohol in natural cosmetics is supposed to be much gentler, and is usually fine for skin that doesn't have problems like fragile capillaries. Alcohols other than denat and isopropyl are actually emollients, and are ok.


Proteins: Great for porous hair, but in moderation, since too often protein treatments make the hair rough or weighed down. Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein are common proteins.


Antioxidants: vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), vit E (Tocopherol), coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone), vit A (Retinol or Retinyl Acetale or Palmitate), vit B3 (Niacinamide). Each of these has a very different role, and also different side effects (for example Retinol can be very drying while vit C increases the skins sensitivity to sunlight). So inform yourself about them before you buy!

For further reading, I recommend:

10 toxic ingredients to avoid
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary by The Cosmetics Cop
Skin Deep analyses the toxicity of your cosmetics for you
   And of course on Venusian*Glow I have discussed ingredients that I found especially great for my skin and hair (or especially crappy).


   Are there any specific ingredients that you always watch out for? Do you know of a nifty website that helps you with understanding ingredients? 

How To Understand Cosmetic Ingredients

    If there is one thing you can do to get in control of your hair and skin, it's learning the basics of cosmetic ingredients. The ingredient list tells you the truth about the cosmetic, not the manufacturer's description. Let's compare cosmetic shopping to shopping digital cameras: would you look for specs like "12x zoom, 12 megapixels and 2.7" display" or would you be satisfied with a description like "this cutting-edge camera will make your photos look amazing"?
    Also, recognising which ingredients work for you and which don't, makes choosing products much easier. Instead of saying "noooo, yet another moisturiser is blocking my pores", you can say "oh, this contains lanolin and my skin doesn't like lanolin, lets look for something with beeswax instead."


   A couple of years back I though that someone who understands cosmetic ingredients is terribly smart and educated, but I now know it's actually not so hard! I have already written the easy guide to reading cosmetic labels. Here I have written a bit more on the topic:

   First, a secret: you don't actually need to understand each and every ingredient! Recognising just a couple tells me a lot about the product. Mineral oil? Cheaply made product. All four parabens? The rest is probably just as toxic.

Three Rules Of Reading Cosmetic Ingredients:

Rule 1: The ingredients are always listed according to quantity. So if you see a cream "with olive oil" and the ingredients read "mineral oil, aqua, glycerine, oilive oil, ..." you'll know that the cream contains way more crappy mineral oil than olive oil.

Rule 2: Ingredients that make up less that 1% of the product are listed at the end, in alphabetical order. These include scents, colours, conservants as well as active ingredients (when there is very little of it because of the recipe or saving money). Remember that conservants, even though in tiny quantities, can also irritate the skin.

Rule 3: Everyone's skin is different, so it's up to you to find out what your skin and hair like. An ingredient that doesn't block your pores may block mine. Proteins may make my hair bouncy but yours heavy. Regularly scanning the ingredients of cosmetics that worked and that didn't work for you is a sure way of identifying your personal wow-ingredients and problem-ingredients.

A small handbook of cosmetic ingredients:

This list is by no means exhaustive, it's just a small overview:


Detergents / surfactants: Avoid SLS and SLES (soldium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl ether sulfate) which are harsh, aggressive detergents. For some reason they sometimes appear in conditioners.

Humectants: moisturuisers, they attract water. Glycerine, urea, mel (honey), hyaluronan, d-panthenol, aloe vera are great, skin-friendly moisturisers.


Emolients: Seal the moisture in or out. Includes oil, other fats and silicones. Plant-based are good (from plants, seeds nuts, etc), as well as lanolin, butters (such as shea butter), beeswax (cera alba). Avoid mineral oil / paraffinum liquidum. When it comes to silicones, avoid in skin care but a bit of water-soluble silicones in hair products are ok, as long as they are not at the top of the ingredient list.


Alcohol: avoid alcohol denat (also listed simply as alcohol) and isopropyl alcohol -- they are drying and aggressive and should rather be avoided, except in the cases where they are carriers of ---- like in scalp treatments. Alcohols other than denat and isopropyl are actually emollients, and are ok.


Proteins: Great for porous hair, but in moderation, since too often protein treatments make the hair rough or weighed down. Hydrolyzed Silk, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Oat Protein are common proteins.


Antioxidants: vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), vit E (Tocopherol), coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone), vit A (Retinol or Retinyl Acetale or Palmitate), vit B3 (Niacinamide). Each of these has a very different role, and also different side effects (for example Retinol can be very drying while vit C increases the skins sensitivity to sunlight). So read up before you buy!

Conservants: Not all of these are bad. For example lactic acid or vitamin C are great skin-friendly conservants. Others, like -paraben, DMDM Hydantoin, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxane, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropane-1,3-Diol, Diazolidynyl Urea, Imidiazolidynyl Urea, Phenyl Benzoate, Phenyl Dimethicone, Formaldehyde, Methylchloroisothiazolinone) should be avoided.

Parfum/fragrance: scents, the ingredients of these don't have to be declares, so they are potentially toxic and irritating. Certain scents, those seen as most harmful by the EU comission, have to be listed separately: for eg. Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Coumarin, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Eugenol. Avoid all perfumes if you have a sensitive skin.

Filler ingredients etc: Apart from the stuff above which actually does something for the skin, there are also a bunch of ingredients that thicken, thin, emulsify, and improve the texture of the product. Obviously, many of the ingredients are multipurpose. Lower-quality cosmetics (not to be confused with cheaper cosmetics, since some expensive products are cheaply made) have lots of fillers and fewer active ingredients.

For further reading, I recommend:

10 toxic ingredients to avoid
Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary by The Cosmetics Cop. You can search alphabetically or by category.
Skin Deep analyses the toxicity of your cosmetics for you
   And of course on Venusian*Glow I have discussed ingredients that I found especially great for my skin and hair (or especially crappy).



   If you have other resources to recommend, I'd love to know! Also, do you have any absolute deal-breakers when it comes to ingredients? Mine are parabens, mineral oil and SLS.

How To Care For Your Child's Skin And Hair -- Naturally

   Since I have two small kids of my own, I wanted to write a bit about how to take care of the skin and hair of little people. I notice that a lot of moms don't realise that many conventional baby-care products contain crappy ingredients, and are neither gentle or natural. Kids skin is very sensitive and growing kids are very susceptible to chemicals. These chemicals often act like hormones, cause cancer or simply irritate and damage the skin and hair.

    Note: by kids I mean from age of 1,5/2 till puberty!

Noticing the body and stimulating the senses

    Learning to take care of the body is an important part of the development of a child. At this age its important not to stress the cosmetic / beauty aspect of it, but rather the self-care aspect as well as the enjoyment of the whole process. For example noticing that the skin is dry and rubbing almond oil on it, or pouring a small drop of lavender essential oil on their hands and enjoying the scent -- all the senses are involved, and the child takes a moment to notice their body (kids are often so focused on their activities and the world around that they don't pay attention to their body unless they hurt it!)

Bath and cleansing:

    Always buy soaps and other bath products for your kids that are without SLS (sodium laureth sulfate) or SLES (sodium lauryl ether sulfate), as these are harsh detergents that irritate the skin. Best are natural olive-oil based soaps -- find handmade ones that come in the most gorgeous candy colours. Never use antibacterial soaps.
    I used to think that all natural bath products don't foam (since it's mainly SLS that creates foam) but since then I discovered that's not true. I love Dreckspatz bubble baths which are certified natural cosmetics, and they do foam nicely. For sure there are other brands of natural but bubbly bath products in other countries too.
   Kids skin doesn't produce much sebum (oils) and they don't sweat stinky, so they don't need to use soap all over their body every day. It's enough to use soap just on the parts that need it.
   Another reason for using natural bath products -- conventional ones often disturb the pH balance of the skin and so cause infections in the genital area.

Hair

    Kids don't need to shampoo very often -- usually a tiny bit of natural shampoo once in a while is enough. teach them to rub their scalp well with their fingertips and not their nails.
    Getting a shampoo without SLS is very important --- sodium laureth sulfate actually harms the eyes.
    Cradle cap (yes, it's not just for babies) is best removed by gently brushing out after soaking with water / oil.
     Which brings me to -- oils. If your kid's hair is dry, apply olive oil half and hour before washing.
     If your kid has a very different hair type from yours, you might want to read up on how to take care of it. Especially if your kid has curly hair and you don't -- a lot of moms fight a losing battle against frizz and dryness, not realising that their kids curls don't like detergents and brushes!

Skin:

      If you are using a powder, do look for something talc-free, as inhaled talc causes respiratory problems. Cornstarch-based powder is best. However I have to admit that I never used powder on any of my kids bottoms -- but I'm not sure whether this would work in a warmer climate as well.
      If your kid has a dry skin, the best thing is oils -- they are gentle, healing and simple. You can rub the oil in like a mini massage or teach the kids to do it themselves. I prefer a simple plant oil, such as Jojoba, which I can mix with other plant-based oils if the fancy strikes me. If you don't like mixing stuff, it's fine to buy an oil mix. Your selection is not limited to baby oils: pregnancy skin oils, hair oils, skin oils for grown-ups are good: oils are extremely multi-purpose. Always check the ingredients before buying -- you're looking for perfume-free and free from mineral oil and silicones. Many oils (including baby oils) are mostly mineral oil, which in short is a cheap ingredient that doesn't do the skin any good. And perfumes are usually irritating and contain a bunch of undeclared toxic chemicals.
     For very dry patches, cracking lips and irritated skin I love Weleda skin food and the Weleda calendula baby cream.

Sun

   Unfortunately not all kids sunscreen is free from chemical sunscreen, so be sure to read the labels. Chemical sunscreen acts like hormones and is often not photostable. A good sunscreen is also free from alcohol. Most kids sunscreen is white and sticky, but kids don't mind if you pretend its war-paint!

Some ingredients to avoid:

    Avoid anything with parabens (anything ending with -paraben, usually found near the end of the ingredient list), mineral oil, paraffin, perfume and artificial colouring.
    When in doubt, look up the product on the Skin Deep Database, it shows exactly how toxic or not a product is.


    In Germany there are quite rigorous laws regarding baby products, so it's pretty easy to find inexpensive non-toxic products. Usually the German brands have a much better ingredient list than multinational brands. However my personal approach was even simpler: I tried to find natural products that work for the whole family. I DIY our shampoo, buy olive-oil based soap, mix our moisturising oil, and buy a natural toothpaste that everyone in the family uses.


   One last tip: If your kids want crappy products with the latest cartoon character on it, you can be sneaky and buy that but pour the contents down the drain and refill with your choosen brand of stuff.


    For those of you who have kids -- what are / were your favourite natural products? Do share!

   

Conditioner-Only Washing: March 2012 Hair Update

   It's been more than a year that I jumped onto the washing my hair with conditioner bandwagon! I am loving it and my hair is getting better and better. If you're curious, here is the Dec 2011 hair update and the April 2011 hair update. and the There have been a few ups and downs though, I have tweaked my routine and tried out stuff. Here is my routine from the past few months:

* Although I like to use a bit of gentle, SLS-free shampoo on my scalp every other co-washing, I didn't use almost any shampoo at all in the coldest weeks of the winter.

* I usually wash my hair two to three times a week.

* To bring out the wave patterns, I scrunch the conditioner into my hair, and then scrunch the hair again after rinsing out. Sometimes I also plop.

* I have microfibre towels, and I love them for my hair. I feel they are gentler and create less frizz.

* I am currently using Alterra's Pomengranate range for co-washing, mainly because I've been to lazy to make my own conditioner. I like it, but then I haven't much comparison with other products (it's hard to find a silicone and paraben-free conditioner!) I did mistakenly use the Alterra hair masque instead of the conditioner for a while, and wondered why the thing was so sticky...

* I finger-comb my hair when dry, using a natural-bristle brush just for my bangs (I find that bangs look better un-clumped).

* I try to alternate sugar scalp-scrubs, protein treatments, beer rinses, cider-vinegar rinses and oil conditioning. This means that around every second hair wash I'll be doing one of these treatments. The oils I have been using lately are grapeseed oil and extra-virgin olive oil.

* For volume, I clip my roots when my hair is drying after co-washing; and I sleep with my hair tied into a pineapple.


   So what now? I'll be sticking with co-washing, and hopefully soon I'll have fine-tuned my routine. Sometimes my hair acts up and I don't know what it wants, in such cases I usually try cider-vinegar rinses or protein treatments -- or wearing a crocheted beret. I'm hoping to get to the bottom of these hair-tantrums!
  I am trying out way to re-vitalise my waves on the second day, testing out DIY sprays and stuff like that.  So far I haven't found anything I'm crazy about.  If I find the perfect thing, I'll be a happy girl. Got any tips for me? I can't use the famous lavender curls revitaliser because I've got low blood pressure.


   How is your hair routine going? Have you made any recent discoveries? Do share!


PS  I did do a back-shot like in the past hair updates, but I underestimated how weird wet hair looks on photos.

Grape Seed Oil : Light And Moisturising For Hair And Skin

     I have been trying out grape seed oil since two months and am loving it. It is a very moisturising yet light (non-greasy) oil, rich in antioxidants, and it works well for the hair as well as the skin. I'm not too crazy about the smell, so I add a dash of essential oil (patchouli is my current favourite).

    I love the lightness of jojoba in the summer but needed something more moisturising for my dry skin in the winter. Grape seed oil does a good job at moisturising, at the same time being light enough to not cause any breakouts. It leaves my skin looking slightly "damp" and glowy but not oily or sticky. I've oil-cleansed with it a couple of times too. Overall I'm pretty satisfied, though I guess I might need something heavier when if the temperatures drop (global warming seems to have kidnapped the winter thus far).

   But where I really adore grape seed oil is on my hair. I use it before co-washing once or twice a week. Results: it leaves my hair shiny, soft and smooth. It's also light enough to not need any shampoo to wash it off (I wash my hair only with conditioner, as most of you know).

   If you want to try it out, I know that many food stores carry it -- just be sure to buy only cold-pressed grape seed oil. If it doesn't work for you as a cosmetic, you can also eat it -- it crazy healthy as long as you don't fry with it. 

    Have you every used grape seed oil, for moisturising or for eating? What oils do you think I should try out next?


PS The winner of the Ambitious Happiness ECourse is Lisa! Do contact me with your email address so that you may get your prize!

Pseudo Natural Cosmetics: Greenwashing By The Body Shop And Burt's Bees

What's the difference between cosmetics labeled as natural and certified natural ones? 

   The Öko Test Magazine recently ran an article on green-washing by cosmetic brands. Many mainstream cosmetic companies have cashed in on the green boom by starting a line of products branded as 'natural'. Öko Test tested them to see just how do they differ from certified natural cosmetics.

Brands tested?

 Conventional brands like Garnier Skin Naturals, Yes To, Palmolive Naturals, Schwarzkopf and also brands with a natural image like Yves Rocher, Artdeco skin yoga, Aveda, Burt's Bees and The Body Shop.

The results?

Not only were most ingredients synthetic rather than than natural, but many of them are associated with health risks. The problematic ingredients were synthetic surfactants, silicones, synthetic conservants, paraffin, chemical UV-filters and synthetic fragrances, among others. Not only are these ingredients synthetic and not natural, they are of questionable safety and forbidden by the standards of most certificates for natural cosmetics.

   The problem is that the label "natural" is not protected by law. Interestingly, Öko Test writes that most of the producers are aware that their products are not natural. For example The Body Shop claims to be "inspired" by nature, so it's not actually promising that their products are all-natural. Yet how many girls stop to analyse such advertising tactics?

Tips for buying really natural products:

The easy way: Choose certified natural cosmetics. Here is a simple guide to certificates. You will more likely find such products in health stores.

The analytical approach way:
   Like I already mentoned, many brands produce toxin-laden products as well as skin-friendly ones, and a glimpse at the ingredient list quickly reveals which are which. Here is how to do it:
* Skim through the ingredients: if it contains mineral oil / paraffin, silicones (ending with -cone), parabens (ending with -paraben) or sulfates; it is not good.
* Claims made by the front of the container should be checked at the back (the ingredient list): products labeled "with insert natural ingredient here" often have mineral oil / paraffin / alcohol / other chemical as their top ingredients, with the advertised natural ingredient near the end of the list (meaning there is very little of it in the product, ingredients being listed in order of quantity).
* Skin Deep Cosmetics Database: shows the toxicity level of cosmetics and their ingredients. It's really a nifty tool! I searched for The Body Shop and Burt's Bees and it's interesting to see how their products range from low-concern to high-concern.

  Hope this post helps you to pick out the good products.

Skin Care In The Winter

     You should be tweaking your skin care routine when the cold season sets in, unless you live somewhere where it's summer all year long (in that case I hate you). Skin functions quite differently in the cold, often drying out and cracking. Depending on where you live your winter may be mild or harsh, humid or dry -- this means there is no one-fits-all winter beauty routine. Still, here are some pointers

Face Care:

* Cleanse your face every evening -- even if you don't wear makeup and you haven't been sweating, pollution leaves it's traces on the skin (unless you live in the heart of untouched wilderness --- in that case, I hate you too). This is a great time for cleansing milks, oil cleansing, or almond paste cleansing, as detergent-based cleansers can leave the skin dry.

* Rapid changes between warm + dry indoor and cold + windy outdoors stresses the skin and may cause capillaries to break. Keep the skin covered with oil / moisturiser to form a protective barrier between the skin and the air. You might want a richer cream than the one you used in summer --- most skin types get dryer in winter. The type of cream you need depends upon the temperatures:

10 to 0 degrees: Regular moisturiser, maybe a slightly richer one.
0 till -10 degrees: The blood capillaries constrict to prevent the heat from escaping, and this causes the skin produces less natural fats. Sweating (during outdoor sports) causes the skin to lose even more fat. The skin needs fat and moisture, so anything with (plant based!) oils is good.
-10 and below: Creams with a lot of water in them (aqua on the first or second place on the ingredient list) should not be used anymore because they can freeze on the skin. That can cause blood capillaries to break. Instead choose creams with urea, as studies has shown that dry skin contains only half the urea that normal skin has. Of course oils are great too. 

* Don't forget your lips, neck and the undereye skin! The neck should be treated same as the face, the lips need a petroleum-free chap stick, and the undereye skin should always be protected with an undereye cream that is slightly richer than usual. If you have a lighter moisturiser that you used in the summer and that is free of perfume, it can work as a winter under-eye cream.

* You still need SPF, since UV rays don't go away in the winter. Choose mineral over chemical sunscreen.

Body Care:

   The body skin is not as exposed to the elements as the face, but it still needs extra care because it tends to get really dry:

* Moisturise well after showers. Towel dry and then apply a moisturiser to seal in the moisture.

* Use a petroleum / mineral oil and silicone free moisturiser -- these can form a barrier on the skin which dries it out. I love a mix of plant based oils with a dash of a nice-smelling essential oil.

* Swap out your foam bath products for bathing oils. Bathing oils leave the skin supple and soft, and counter the drying effects of hot water.

* Use only gentle exfoliators. I know your skin is flaking, but exfoliating doesn't really solve the problem -- which is lack of skin oils and lack of moisture from inside (more on that lower down).

Hands

* Unless your hands are extra dry, you can just use your regular body moisturiser.

* If you need something heavier, use a hand cream free of silicones and mineral oil / petroleum, as the first only gives a special effect of smooth hands, while the other is actually drying. Products with urea are great for very dry hands.

Beauty from within

* Drinking enough water is key to keep the skin from drying out, yet most of us forget to do that in the winter. We tend to sip warm drinks, but usually not enough to meet our body's real need for liquids. When my lips start to chap, it is often because I have been drinking too little. I'm going to try drinking 1-2 glasses of water first every time I make myself a warm drink -- this way I won't forget!

* Don't forget to eat your fruits and veggies. Vitamin supplements cannnot replace vitamins from food. My favourite fruit in the winter are oranges and apples, and I add those to my spinach smoothie. It's also a great time to eat nuts, and if you are in Germany --- sauerkraut!

* Teas with cinnamon, ginger and allspice will help curb your sweet tooth -- if you're anything like me you develop a craving for sweet when temperatures drop.

* Get a hygrometer (from a gardening store) and check the humidity of your home and workplace. if it's way below 50%, think about humidifying the air. If it's higher than 60% you need to air you home more often.


   And lastly --- enjoy winter and have fun! It is joy, love and feeling good in one's skin that make us beautiful. I see so many people walking around with a "lemon face" all winter through... try smiling instead!


    What is your winter skin care routine? What's your biggest challenge --- dry skin, chapped lips or a constantly red nose? Have you tried sauerkraut?

PS Interested in hair care in the winter? 

Zeta Tries Out: A Turkish Bath

   I really wanted to try the fabled Turkish Bath. In Göreme, Cappadocia there was a Hamam there that was supposed to be quite nice, though geared for tourists (but then, all Cappadocia is, but that hasn't spoiled it yet). So the day after the amazing tour of fairy chimney monasteries, I was ready to wash away the ochre dust and experience something luxurious.
   I choose the traditional package with the exfoliation and massage. It cost me 60 Turkish Liras, which is not cheap for Turkey. I didn't know very much what to expect when the attendant led me into the Hamam. Here is what happened:
   First I got some kind of clay mask pained on with a silicone baking brush (a brill idea to use that, btw). Then I undressed and got a towel which was so narrow I could barely wrap myself with it (tall or busty ladies beware!). Later on I learned that I should have kept my undies on, but as all the tourist women I saw there were butt-naked as well, so I guess I didn't shock anyone. Anyway, it was the women-only section.
   I was led into what looked very similar to a Sauna, but mildly warm and not very humid. I lay there remembering the blazing heat of the Saunas in Germany and doubting the point of being in a lukewarm Sauna. Suddenly near the end of the 15 minutes I was supposed to be there, my body broke out into rivers of sweat. Honestly, I can't remembering sweating so much, ever. There was a Japanese girl lying next to me, she didn't have a single drop of sweat on here and that made me feel like a sweaty pig. I made myself stay in there and sweat a bit more, then escaped into the main hall which looked like this. I got water to drink and was told to spread out my towel on the marble block in the middle (it was hot!). I relaxed there for a while, listening to the musical plunking of water drops into the pretty sinks. After a while the Japanese girl came out of the Sauna -- I guess she hadn't read the don't stay-longer-than-15-minutes warning: she looked very red, and yes, also very sweaty.

Hamam in Safranbolu. Guess what the glass bottles in the roof are for ?*

    Then the Hamam woman came, and the fun part began. First she splashed me with bowlfuls of cool water. Heavenly, I could do this for hours. After that she got a cloth bag, dipped it in soapy water, then swung it to an fro to fill it with air. Then she proceeded to squeeze amazing quantities of foam all over me. (I was thinking that the kids will love me now that I possess the secret of making foam!) Meanwhile the lady started massaging me, a very smooth and relaxing massage. Then she grabbed a mitt and proceeded to scrub me down, from neck to feet. The mitt was very mildly rough and felt really nice, and the lady used quite a bit of muscle-power while scrubbing. When she told me to turn around, I threw a glance at my body and got totally shocked by the black rolls of dead skin all over me! Eeek! Apparently I should exfoliate more often. The Hamam lady grinned at the face I made, she  probably gets that with every client.
    After the scrub was over I was once again doused with water, and to my dismay that was the end of it. Now I could shower, go to the pool and maybe back to the Sauna. BTW a Turkish girl I talked to told me that women often go to the Hamam with their friends --- I imagine sitting around with your besties in your birthday suits might be awkward at first, but very liberating. The closest I got to that was playing catch with a ball in the pool with the Japanese girl (the one that got cooked in the Sauna). I also discovered that the changing room was also a lot of fun --- girls moisturizing every inch of their skin, peeks at each other's exotic beauty products (all the east-Asian girls had these face masks from Hongkong that come out of a sachet and look like cut out of tissue paper. Wanna try!) After that I decided to meet up with the rest of my family and eat something. I walked on air --- I felt amazingly fresh and relaxed.

   I wanted to go to a Hamam again later on in the trip in Safranbolu, since that is supposed to be one of the nicest ones in turkey, but unfortunately I was low on cash and time. What I did do is buy some Hamam scrubbing mitts and olive oil soaps. I also wanted one of those beautiful Hamam bowls, but they were a bit too heavy!

   In retrospect, I wish I had also gotten the oil massage --- the skin really gets dry easily after such an intensive exfoliation. At least I should have been more diligent in moisturising for a week after the Hamam. Oh, well, the next time I am in Turkey I will know. Oh, you bet there will be a next time in Turkey. I mean, they cook so good, they have amazing baths, cats everywhere, and something to explore everywhere you turn -- what more could a girl want?


* The glass bottles light up inside, just like in this video.